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1/16 Jewel T Altered


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#21 vintagercr

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 06:06 AM

Mark, great work! I can't wait to see more shots

#22 Mooneyzs

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 09:14 AM

Thanks Chris. I find a lot of inspiration from your Snake Vega build.


Hey Mark.... Tanks for the kind words on my Army Vega build. I am loving the progress you are making on this build so far and I am really excited to see you bring this to life. You are a talented builder. I do have to ask what your trick is for bending your tube. Do you heat with a lighter, hot water, blow dryer? Just curiouser because they are very nice bends. Keep up the great work.

#23 edboys

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 03:33 PM

Chris,

 

Usually I bend by hand first, gently putting the radius in the plastic. As you already know the plastic has memory and wants to return to its' original shape. I then hold the plastic where I want it in final form and pass a lighter underneath, enough to introduce the right amount of heat to get the plastic to relax. You will feel the plastics' tension give when the right amount of heat has been attained. Continued holding in position until it cools and the plastic will now retain the bend I want. The jig I used in the photo is little different in that I found my usual method left bends in the straight area of the main roll bar hoop. By putting wooden guides along all the straight sections of the roll bar and then placing a pre-bent plastic tube in the jig, the use of the hair dryer supplied the needed heat to re-set the plastic tension. 



#24 edboys

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 06:39 PM

Wanted to share the next set of photos, but the site page for inputting images go grey when I click on the 'images' icon. I can however paste the Photobucket link and will post to see what happens?

 


JewelTFrameDwg4_zps3e8ecd9b.jpg



#25 edboys

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 06:44 PM

Well, the image link is there along with my text message. Does anyone here know how to fix this little forum problem. Been to the general topics page and some other people have commented about the same problem and I didn't see a direct answer about how to fix it. Thanks for anyone's help. This forum project will come to an abrupt end if I cannot post pix.



#26 gasser59

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 03:15 AM

That is some really nice work Mark. I have a 1/16 scale build or two coming up and I'll want to get a couple of engines from you. They are exquisite!!

 

Let's try this:

JewelTFrameDwg4_zps3e8ecd9b.jpg


Edited by gasser59, 31 March 2013 - 04:22 AM.


#27 gasser59

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 03:19 AM

OK, so we know that I can link to your photos, now we need to get your efforts to work. I just copied the PhotoBucket link and put left bracket and typed 'img' then left bracket in front and then left bracket followed by '/img' followed by right bracket behind the copied link. Give it a go.



#28 edboys

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 06:05 AM

Well, still don't know exactly why I can't post twice in one day. This morning everything worked just fine, but the past few days I have only been able to comment or post pix once a day. I will muddle thru for now until I figure this out. Enjoy.

 

Various parts for the front axle assembly. Use of .045 aluminum rod, .032 aluminum plate, .062 stainless tube, .060 plastic hex rod, .020 plastic sheet, .080 & .100 plastic rod.

 

JewelTFrameDwg36_zpsaade1a7e.jpg

 

Spindle assembly & radius arm

 

JewelTFrameDwg37_zpse083c8fa.jpg

 

Torsion bar connection and first spindle assembly

 

 

JewelTFrameDwg42_zps48e24d41.jpg



#29 Dyno Davo

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 10:34 PM

Stellar progress Mark, this will be an awesome model when complete.



#30 Mooneyzs

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 08:24 AM

Chris,
 
Usually I bend by hand first, gently putting the radius in the plastic. As you already know the plastic has memory and wants to return to its' original shape. I then hold the plastic where I want it in final form and pass a lighter underneath, enough to introduce the right amount of heat to get the plastic to relax. You will feel the plastics' tension give when the right amount of heat has been attained. Continued holding in position until it cools and the plastic will now retain the bend I want. The jig I used in the photo is little different in that I found my usual method left bends in the straight area of the main roll bar hoop. By putting wooden guides along all the straight sections of the roll bar and then placing a pre-bent plastic tube in the jig, the use of the hair dryer supplied the needed heat to re-set the plastic tension. 


Mark... thank you for taking the time to explain to me your process. I am going to have to try that myself. I know what you mean about the plastic wanting to spring back. I have bent some of my tube with a hair dryer and you tend to heat more if an area than you usually want. I do need to try the lighter method.

That front axle is looking great and is coming together. I really like how you are making this come to life. You do some killer work. I am looking forward to more.

#31 edboys

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:32 PM

Working on the Olds rear end and this is the ladder bar that I plan to use. Trying my hand at plastic rod ends with another attempt at aluminum ones next; then to decide which to use.

 

JewelTFrameDwg41_zps6adfd864.jpg



#32 edboys

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:34 PM

Thanks for the kind words Chris. Yah, the lighter method keeps the heat concentrated to a very local area as opposed to the hair dryer. Just don't use the lighter too long or it will melt/distort the plastic.



#33 edboys

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 04:11 AM

Early progress on the Olds rear end needed for this build. Started out modifying the Revell kit rear end and third member (not shown yet) and will be adding drum brake parts by the time it is complete.

 

JewelTFrameDwg45_zps2fc1c211.jpg

 

JewelTFrameDwg44_zpsb9d6c672.jpg



#34 Magic Photos

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 05:58 AM

Looks great Mark.



#35 Mooneyzs

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 06:22 AM

Mark.... I dont think I have ever said thia before to another guy but nice rear end you got there lol. The work you are doing is just fantastic. Love your work. Keep at it.

#36 Casey

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 08:28 AM

Mark.... I dont think I have ever said thia before to another guy but nice rear end you got there lol.

 

:lol:  I have to agree.  :D

 

Mark, what are you planning to use for the American 12-spokes and for matching tires?



#37 edboys

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 12:28 PM

Chris, Thanks for your comments, but I have to say that while watching your build you have made an impression on me as well.

 

Casey, I will be scatchbuilding the front 12-spoke wheels. Going to make them to fit the existing tires for Revell's FE dragster kits. After I do one spoke, then a mold will be made to copy it and then pull six good ones for the wheel assembly. I will be posting pix of that soon.



#38 vintagedragfan

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Posted 05 April 2013 - 01:29 AM

good stuff Mark!!



#39 Mooneyzs

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Posted 05 April 2013 - 05:29 AM

Mark... thanks for the kind words about my build. I need to get an engine order over to you for a couple of builds.

#40 edboys

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 03:51 PM

Finished the third member for the Olds rear end. Now to get the backing plates and drums for the brakes done. I can proceed to make the attachment ears for the ladder bars and get the frame on wheels.

 

JewelTFrameDwg47_zps9c4b7948.jpg

 

JewelTFrameDwg46_zpsf0800d23.jpg

 

JewelTFrameDwg48_zps517a818e.jpg

 

JewelTFrameDwg49_zpsb8cc3b33.jpg