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Revell 67 Corvette Coupe 427


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#21 DSHWoodworks

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 12:59 PM

Very cool work. Looks like a lot of different tones of red on the 1:1 photos. I'm sure you will figure it out. You are taking on way more than I would for a first build, props to you for diving in.  Hope to see more progress, looks like it will be an awesome build.



#22 CrazyGirl

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 04:14 AM

first time with the airbrush , I have no clue to what I was doing so I figured , wing it  , I am 90% happy with it  , Model Master Italian Red , I bought a donor kit to be safe , so far the kits intact , the 10% I am not happy with it when I removed the gauges and switches and stuff I also removed the texture of the black vinyl ,, but what amazes me about the airbrush is how little paint it takes to get good coverage and have it so thin002_zps3a7fa099.jpg003_zps0f204094.jpg



#23 crazyjim

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 04:17 AM

Nice.



#24 CrazyGirl

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 04:27 AM

thanks Jim , hey Jim , how long do you figure before I can put masking tape on this paint ??



#25 crazyjim

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 04:32 AM

Got me.  You used enamel.  All I shoot is HOK.  I think I'd wait several days before attempting to mask - or send a message to the old man, Don Yost.  He would know for sure.



#26 LoneWolf15

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 04:58 AM

Anne ,

Let it sit for a couple of days just to be safe . As for masking , I'd use bare metal foil instead of masking tape . Easier to conform to the dash's curves and less adhesive which lessens the chance of the paint pulling away . Just burnish it down tight and trim it off .

I'd use the improved Bare Metal foil , not the ultra bright !

#27 tyrone

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 05:59 AM

great looking project.... I'll be folowing this one... love the old Vettes....



#28 Modlbldr

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 05:22 PM

Anne-


Looking good for a first time with the airbrush. I can't wait to get mine fired up this year.

Later-

#29 blunc

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 05:57 PM

this might be of interest...

 

some builders use a "dehydrator" to decrease drying time.... there's a whole thread on it in a different section.



#30 jaydar

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 03:23 AM

Great interior shots. Those 67 shots are of a convertible right?

#31 Kaleb

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 11:18 AM

Anne, will there be any more on this build. I just broke down and opened mine so ill be watching. Thank you for the pictures they help a lot. Do you, or anyone know about the trunk area of these cars?

#32 midnightprowler

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 02:13 PM

Looking good Anne!

#33 CrazyGirl

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 03:37 AM

not sure if I made a mistake , I used semi gloss black with a touch of flat black to tone it down , maybe I should have gone flat black ,, I have a spare dash , I may do this all over again 001_zpsf845a611.jpg



#34 crazyjim

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 03:58 AM

Rub your finger on your nose near the nostrils or behind your ear lobe.  Then rub the black with your finger.  You'll get a leather look on the black from your body oils.



#35 CrazyGirl

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 04:17 AM

some trim in place 004_zpsb6549cd0.jpg



#36 Scale-Master

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 04:24 AM

 Do you, or anyone know about the trunk area of these cars?

They don't have trunks. Just a little stowage space when the soft top is up.



#37 CrazyGirl

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 07:13 AM

I am not feeling this , total garbage , going back to a fresh dashboard , but I did learn a ton on this007_zps499ebef0.jpg


Edited by CrazyGirl, 02 May 2013 - 07:14 AM.


#38 wgflatliner

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 12:18 PM

to answer the question on the dehydrators:

 

the typical time it takes to dry for an enamel paint job if done from spray can is about 7 days max.  if you get a dehydrator, and you can get one cheap from wally world, you can cut that curing time down to a couple hours.  just make sure to leave the model in the dehydrator after you turn it off for about 5-10 minutes so it cools off.

 

I got an Oster dehydrator and it has about 7 or 8 different platforms.  i cut the webbing out of all but one of the platforms.  i kept the outer part of the rings in tact, and the reason for that was so i can fit models and stuff in the dehydrator without it getting bumped by the lid.  you also want to keep the parts on the top level so the plastic doesn't warp.

 

Another good tip i have learned with the dehydrator is this:  i have had models where there's wide white wall decals that go on the tires, and also other decals that refuse to conform to the part it's supposed to adhere to.  Using some of the clear/red bottle of the decal setting solution, get the decal where you want it, and use a Q-tip to take away some of the solution that takes up a lot of the excess liquid.  put the part in the dehydrator for about 10 to 20 minutes, and take it out.  the decals will conform to the parts reeeeeeeally nice!  the wide whites on the 50 olds look like they're painted on!!

 

So to me, a dehydrator is an absolute necessity.  i'll get pics of what i did to my dehydrator and add it to this thread some time tonight if you'd like.



#39 CrazyGirl

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 03:49 AM

ok this took 3 hours to do , and if this does not pass the test then I will be having a major sale of models and junk , I used a piece of material from a coin purse and shaved it down to .010 thickness and used super glue , I think it looks good , but it depends on what you all think,,, now the real pain will be the other half 001_zpsbaa00c13.jpg



#40 crazyjim

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 04:06 AM

Does it pass your test, Anne?  You're the only person you have to please.