Real nice Decals on that Canon car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I normally don't even use MicroSol, MicroSet or Walthers exept in extreme complex curves,
MicroSol will weaken after a few years, and Walthers is so strong I thin it with older MicroSol.
In most cases neither the Set or Sol is necessary.
Here's a link to my Decal Tools thread where you will see a 1/2" flat nylon artists brush.
A smooth surface is certainly better than a rough surface for Decal application, however Decals go down easier and less noticeably on top of a Colorcoat before the Clear.
The use of the flat nylon brush allow one to sweep the Decal flat, remove all air and water behind the Decal, and actually taper out the Decal edges flat.
This one tool of mine will change the way you apply Decals.
Just dampen the brush, tap out the excess water and use.
Don't use a dry Nylon brush on a Decal, it is stiff and can scratch the ink.
Q-Tips, Paper towels and other fibrous cotton textiles used on Decals are a no no. I don't want any fibers that will later show up in the ClearCoat.
A sponge (different sizes) and brush are all you need.
Start at the beginning of your Decal application by using the right tools to cut out your Decals, in the right manner.
Fresh clean Titanium scissors or an x-acto knife (always used at a 45 degree angle to slice cleanly.
Clean cut edges on your Decals mean everything towards their final appearance.
When you are ready to lay down your Decal lay the entire Decal almost parallel to the surface you are applying it to.
Hold down one end and gently remove the paper from underneath the image.
This technique leaves less air under the Decal.
You can actually watch atmospheric pressure suck down the Decal image as you remove (slide) the paper from underneath.
Sponge, then Brush.
Solvents aren't always necessary.