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1:8 scratch deuce


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#221 Old Sprinter

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 09:37 AM

You're doing fanastic on this. It certainly can be compared building a real car, just smaller and the material is different. The front end geometry, king pin angle, anti Ackerman steer, camber, caster, steering arm length, etc.; all that must be thought out as you are doing. It is really rewarding, isn't it? Can't wait to see more.



#222 Ognib

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:49 AM

Thanks, Ken, really appreciate the comments.

It's very rewarding when I get something to the point where I'm happy with it.

The process of getting a part to that point is full of, "argh, how'm I gonna do this?"

 

This is a piece of 1/16 wrapped around the maple bending caul.

It was cut from a piece of extruded aluminum.

It doesn't want to bend in a compliant manner & I'm noticing what appear to be stress lines along the radius of both bends.

Need to find a softer alloy to work with.

 

frame112_zps98dd7276.jpg

 

Dimensionally, it's correct for fitting the axle boss & the 9deg angle on the face seems about right.

 

frame113_zps63257418.jpg

 

 

frame114_zps0d5a2939.jpg


Edited by Ognib, 12 September 2013 - 01:43 PM.


#223 Ognib

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 02:34 AM

Drilled & pinned the tie rod arm & traced a line around it.

 

frame115_zpse0e21c69.jpg

 

This will be my build template.

 

frame116_zpsf72ce82c.jpg



#224 Ognib

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 04:14 AM

250 stroke per minute, hand powered jewlers saw.

 

frame117_zps90b1df87.jpg

 

30 min & one broken saw blade later.

 

frame118_zps992f4b87.jpg

 

true up the lines a bit with a file & good to go.

 

frame119_zpsc90b8922.jpg



#225 futurattraction

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 05:22 AM

Amazing work, Ray.  Did you have your jeweler's saw from guitar building or was/is it a modeling-inspired acquisition?



#226 vintagedragfan

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 04:07 PM

nice Ray, every time you make a part you are one step closer buddy



#227 Foxer

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 02:45 AM

I'm out of breath watching this come to be. Much of what you're doing I keep in mind to work even in my smaller scale!



#228 Ognib

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 03:14 AM

Thanks, guys.

 

I bought the jewlers saw previously for cutting pearl to do inlay work on the guitars.

 

After I drilled the king pin holes, I slipped the tie rod arm template over the king pin, located it, drilled & pinned & traced it's outline.

 

frame120_zps35ceb917.jpg

 

Just have to whittle it all out.

 

frame121_zpsa22711ee.jpg

 

 

 



#229 Ognib

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 03:25 AM

Roughed it in on the bandsaw.

 

frame122_zps9439f51a.jpg

 

frame123_zpse35399a8.jpg



#230 cobraman

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 02:30 AM

Fantastic workmanship !  Can't wait to see this thing finished.



#231 Ognib

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 05:13 AM

Thanks, Ray, glad you're enjoying.

 

Pinned both sides back to back, along with the arm template, clamped in the vise & roughing in the shape with a coarse rat tail file.

By working multiple parts at one time, it simplifies my ability to have visually matching pieces from side to side.

 

frame124_zpsa0b1bf1d.jpg

 

frame125_zps37c4bd4f.jpg

 

 



#232 Ognib

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 07:43 AM

First fit.

Getting there.

 

frame126_zps23223ade.jpg

 

There is contact between the tie rod arm & axle.

 

frame127_zps03933dfb.jpg

 

This shows how much I still need to trim it down to match the plastic piece.

 

frame128_zps24ec1061.jpg


Edited by Ognib, 13 September 2013 - 07:44 AM.


#233 futurattraction

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 08:19 AM

Thanks, Ray, glad you're enjoying.

 

Pinned both sides back to back, along with the arm template, clamped in the vise & roughing in the shape with a coarse rat tail file.

By working multiple parts at one time, it simplifies my ability to have visually matching pieces from side to side.

 

frame124_zpsa0b1bf1d.jpg

 

frame125_zps37c4bd4f.jpg

 

 

Been there, done that... lol  Both sides have got to match! :)  You're making nice progress, Ray.



#234 blunc

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 12:55 PM

have you tried heating the aluminum while shaping it to your form?  (I'm just shooting in the dark here but maybe softening it a bit with heat may reduce stress cracking)

 

the other option would be milling (or just cutting/filing)  these pieces from thicker aluminum plate.

 

(these options may have already been thought of and discarded...)



#235 vintagedragfan

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 05:00 AM

very nice work Ray, looks like you have really been thinking things through before jumping in and doing it, it seems to be paying off, it is looking really good my friend!



#236 M0par Jim

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:34 PM

I hope you don't mind me asking, but what did you use to attach the fittings together on the front axle?  


Edited by M0par Jim, 15 September 2013 - 06:35 PM.


#237 Ognib

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 12:05 AM

Thanks, Scott.

 

Mike, my solution is to find a source for one of these 2 grades of aluminum in sheet, in small quantities.

So far, locally, no one seems to have it.

I'm going to need it for shaping the body panels on the model & it'll be good for bending small parts like the spindle bosses, as well.

 

1100
This grade is commercially pure aluminum. It is soft and ductile and has excellent workability. It is ideal for applications involving intricate forming because it work hardens more slowly than other alloys. It is the most weldable of aluminum alloys, by any method. It is non heat-treatable. It has excellent resistance to corrosion and is widely used in the chemical and food processing industries. It responds well to decorative finishes which make it suitable for giftware.

 

or

 

3003
This is the most widely used of all aluminum alloys. It is essentially commercially pure aluminum with the addition of manganese which increases the strength some 20% over the 1100 grade. Thus, it has all the excellent characteristics of 1100 with higher strength. It has excellent corrosion resistance. It has excellent workability and it may be deep drawn or spun, welded or brazed. It is non heat treatable. Applications: cooking utensils, decorative trim, awnings, siding, storage tanks, chemical equipment.

 

Thanks, Bill.

How've you been?

Ya, I put a lot of thought/visualization time in on stuff like this.

Develop a clear, sharp picture in my mind of the process first.

 

Hey Jim, don't mind you asking at all.

I'm using centering punches & drill bits for hanging the spindles at this point.

I've got music wire in the same size that I'll cut for the actual king pins, at final assembly.


Edited by Ognib, 18 September 2013 - 04:31 AM.


#238 Ognib

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 01:36 PM

Cutting more parts.

Due to the interferance between the tie rod arm and the axle, as shown above, I'm modifying the part to lower the tie rod arm in relation to the inward slant of the axle as it drops...giving more room for the arm to rotate.

 

Small hose is attached to an aquarium aerator to keep saw residue blown away...from obscuring my cut line.

 

frame129_zps233f2f32.jpg


Edited by Ognib, 19 September 2013 - 02:01 AM.


#239 Ognib

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 02:30 AM

Blocks are being added along with a new tie rod arm.

Upper arm will be eliminated.

Dimensions are 3/16 total drop = 1 1/2" lower at 1:1

 

frame130_zps71ad2980.jpg

 

This will allow this much more available travel for the arm.

Now we can achieve a believable right turn position with the spindle/tire.

 

frame131_zpsab2d523d.jpg


Edited by Ognib, 19 September 2013 - 02:35 AM.


#240 futurattraction

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:01 AM

It's looking real good, Ray.  I really enjoy watching your progress.