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Gas Out The Pond?

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#1 Skydime

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 05:35 PM

OK, I have a problem here that is bugging me to death.  I have an original Monogram square bodied S10 kit from back in the day, molded in white styrene.  I know for a fact that I did Duplicolor primer and paint.  I have tried soaking this thing for two weeks a piece in both degreaser and brake fluid.  The top layer of paint is just barely starting to bubble.

 

So, here's the deal.  I have kept it sealed in a container just small enough for all the parts with the lid sealed.  This is the second kit I have done this way.  The first one just melted Krylon off with degreaser.  Do I need to remove the lid on this Duplicolor painted kit and let it ventilate?



#2 fatkidd

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 05:46 PM

Ken,

 

sand the painted parts with 600-800 to break open the "skin" of dried paint.  That should allow the degreaser to penetrate the underlying layers.



#3 martinfan5

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 06:00 PM

Is the Duplicolor you used Lacquer based or Enamel based?



#4 Skydime

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 06:24 PM

It was definitely lacquer.  I remember it's the first time I smelled lacquer paint going on a model kit.



#5 Pro Wrench

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 06:47 PM

I'm having the same problem with a Hemi Cuda that I painted about 30 years ago. Don't remember what I used, which I'm sure is whatever my dad had in the garage, but I have tried everything including drain cleaner and Easy-Off and it hasn't touched it.



#6 martinfan5

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 07:52 PM

It was definitely lacquer.  I remember it's the first time I smelled lacquer paint going on a model kit.

Well, there are few things you can try,  one, you need to use 91% alcohol to strip lacquer,  I would still sand the body like already mentioned.

 

Another thing you could do is , take rag, shop towel, and pour some lacquer thinner on it, then rub that on the body, and should help remove some of the paint, or at least get it started.



#7 Nxr

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 06:35 AM

Give acetone a try



#8 Jantrix

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 07:00 AM

Sand down to the primer coat in five or spots.

#9 charlie8575

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 09:56 AM

I have been told that paint that's been on for a long time is very tough to get to come off.

 

Start with a little sanding in a few spots as suggested. I have found that Purple Power/SuperClean will remove lacquer, but it can take time. I've been able to strip lacquer primer in the stuff with little trouble, but the jobs were generally recent- within a year or so.

 

I've also found that oven cleaner is very effective for removing paint and lacquer in particular because the foaming action works its way into the pores of the paint.

 

Alcohol from the experiencs of others, seems to work best on synthetic lacquers, like Tamiya or Model Master.

 

Charlie Larkin



#10 mr moto

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 10:02 AM

Give acetone a try

 

DO NOT USE ACETONE!!! It will dissolve styrene rapidly!



#11 Nxr

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 10:08 AM

never had for me, used acetone to strip bad paint jobs maybe did cause some bumps but worked great...

The way i do it is i dip a little into a mr clean magic eraser and start removing it, after most is off i take another piece of the magic eraser dipped in paint thinner and remove all the gunks and buildups, i am sure it would dissolve the plastic if you dip the whole thing into it, Kleanstrip products only as well.


Edited by Nxr, 01 May 2013 - 10:11 AM.


#12 Guest_G Holding_*

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 01:38 PM

 

DO NOT USE ACETONE!!! It will dissolve styrene rapidly!

If used at full strength yes.

 

SO DILUTE ACETONE WITH 20% WATER.

 

yes 20% water, NOT 15, 25,35,10   .............BUT TWENTY PERCENT WATER !!!!!

 

 

if you use 20% water you will not even etch styrene. I used DOT 3 for 25 years, with few issues..but it does take some time, as the fluid aged.  Gramps taught me the 20%, he told me to mix carefully and drop some sprue in overnight. That proved the safety and then I wanted it to strip fast...30 minutes to the bare body..both resin (from R&M) and revell styrene clean as a whistle, even the filler/ primer by duplicolor in 35 minutes.

 

You do not have to believe me, just get some acetone and water, and go soak some sprues, and see for yourself.  



#13 Skydime

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:59 PM

Sounds like some good suggestions.  Ill mess around and see what I got around in a few days and forward the results.

 

Oh, and by the way.  If someone could chime in with the answer to whether I need to remove the lid or not, I'd appreciate it.  I've stripped a few without a lid before but, like I said, this is only the second one sealed in a container with a lid.


Edited by Skydime, 01 May 2013 - 06:02 PM.


#14 martinfan5

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 07:18 PM

keep the lid on



#15 Skydime

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 04:48 PM

keep the lid on

Sounds like a winner.  It keeps down the risk of a mess as well.



#16 Pro Wrench

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 05:50 PM

Where do I get 91% alcohol?



#17 ScaleDale

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 06:39 PM

Where do I get 91% alcohol?

Walgreens. It's a fancy word for full strength isopropyl alcohol.

 

Link:http://www.walgreens...opyl alcohol 99

 

Dale



#18 Guest_G Holding_*

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 12:25 PM

Where do I get 91% alcohol?

Any drugstore, just read the label, or look for the higher priced stuff



#19 martinfan5

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 01:03 PM

Where do I get 91% alcohol?


Walmart, its 50% cheaper there then at Walgreens or any other drug store, its about $3 and change at wally world, vs like $6 and change at Walgreens

#20 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 01:12 PM

Greg, I really appreciate the acetone / 20% water tip. I always have acetone in stock for cleaning tools for composites work, and I'm going to mix a batch of your magic stuff tomorrow. I've got some old lacquer-painted bodies that nothing has touched so far. Really looking forward to seeing the results.