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Revell 1990 Mustang LX with increased headroom.


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#1 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 07:22 PM

The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies.

 

Boo hoo. Let's fix it.

This will be a replica of my 1992 LX. This pic was taken at a dead-on side view at 30 feet with telephoto to minimize lens distortion and show what the actual car looks like.

P6050044_zps8839f53f.jpg

I'll have to kitbash it into an automatic with power windows and A/C, not a problem. That roof, however, will need some work.

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I cut it along these marks.

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Whack it free with the razor saw.

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The angles of the A and C pillars are right on, the roof was lowered along those planes. When you chop a top like that, you must lengthen it, which is what they did. Use tape as a guide to cut the roof in half like so, then a sheet of sand paper on a piece of glass makes a perfect broad flat file to reduce the two halves. Reduce a little at a time, checking the alignment of the pillars as you go.
 

-MJS


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 03 November 2013 - 08:18 AM.


#2 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 07:27 PM

Because you are moving the rear of the roof upward and forward, the B pillar can be bent back slightly to give it the proper angle, instead of straight up as supplied. The pillar spacers are Plastruct strip pieces measuring just a hair under 1/16" on the B and C pillars, and just over 1/16" on the A pillars. Because the A pillars are at more of an angle than the others, they rise less with the same spacers so thicker spacers are necessary to raise the roof level.

P6070057_zpsff1c6714.jpg

Check the fit of everything with tape before you commit to the glue.

When it all looks good, let the glue fly. I use good 'ol Testors toob gloo for my chops (and un-chops) because you can move the parts around a bit to finalize the fit. Then I touch it up with Hobbytown medium CA and kicker for extra strength and for minor body filler at the joints.

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Better?

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Total time to get to this point: 5 hours, 30 minutes, with one break. Next time, we'll talk about those rear wheel wells, the trunk lid, and where to get the best Chinese food.

-MJS

 


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 03 November 2013 - 08:26 AM.


#3 Ron Hamilton

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 07:49 PM

It's nice to see someone who will put their money where their mouth is. Very nice work. You have backed up ypur criticism about Revell's body with excellent results.



#4 slusher

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 08:15 PM

It's nice to see someone who will put their money where their mouth is. Very nice work. You have backed up ypur criticism about Revell's body with excellent results.

 

l have to agree. Very nice looking 1:1 mustang..



#5 martinfan5

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 08:19 PM

Nice work Mike, I might have to give it a try when I get mine



#6 W-409

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 09:42 PM

Instead of complaining for ten pages in the Car Kit Reviews - section, you decided to do what was needed to get the body right! And that's something I really like. ;)  You did great work with the modification also, and it sure looks better, even if I didn't see what was wrong with the original kit body. But now I see that yours look much better. Great job, I'll be following this one for sure.



#7 Abell82

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 01:26 AM

Looks good. Now about those windows....

#8 MrObsessive

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 02:54 AM

Mike that looks really good, and a lot more accurate! Until guys on the board here pointed it out, I would have never known the many issues that the body has as Fox bodied Mustangs are not my forte.

 

As Jason mentioned, the fly in the ointment will be the front and rear glass. I would have a way to make them, but not everyone is skilled in working with acetate, or "molding" them out of PET.

 

Keep up the excellent work! B)



#9 Danno

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 04:05 AM

Awesome job, Mike.   I agree with Ron's comments!!   B)

 

 

 

Looking forward to the next installment . . .



#10 mikemodeler

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 04:36 AM

I'm interested in the Chinese food place, can you give us some insight ???? ;)

 

Nice job on fixing the Mustang and having a 1:1 in the driveway surely helps. Thanks for sharing a simple fix for those that are striving for more accuracy.



#11 whale392

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 04:55 AM

Mike, I see you did yours just a bit different, but with the same results, a much better looking roof. I cut the door window casings out, cut the roof right at the top of the windows, added the material, shortened the roof the required amount, and glued the roof back on. I am in the process of making the drip railing right now.

 

Then again, when you buy a DOZEN of them (putting MY money where MY mouth is, as it was put) makes it easy to experiment with. Also, having the 1:1 does make it easy when reference is right there. Now, how about those who didn't step up and do, now that TWO paths to fixing it have been mentioned/shown?  :)


Edited by whale392, 08 June 2013 - 05:20 AM.


#12 plowboy

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 06:55 AM

Looks a lot better Mike! I'm sure a lot of us will be taking notes. But, we shouldn't have to make major modifications like this to a kit manufactured in 2013. Not many average builders have the skills to unchop a top, make windows, etc. etc. Is the slope of the trunk area/tops of the quarter panels right? It looks like the kit's trunk/quarter panels don't have enough slope to them.



#13 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 10:02 AM

Thanks for the nice words, guys. I've been filing away at the pillars to redefine the various groove details.

 

P6080075_zps43911290.jpg

 



Mike that looks really good, and a lot more accurate! Until guys on the board here pointed it out, I would have never known the many issues that the body has as Fox bodied Mustangs are not my forte.

 

As Jason mentioned, the fly in the ointment will be the front and rear glass. I would have a way to make them, but not everyone is skilled in working with acetate, or "molding" them out of PET.

 

Keep up the excellent work! B)

 

Bill, preliminary test fitting is showing that with some very minor filing at the lower sides of the front/rear glass, they can be reused by centering them in the frames, and adding strip stock at the top and bottom of the openings.

 

P6080083_zps4060dfad.jpg

 

This is one option, but I'll experiment with making new glass because I'm not thrilled with the size of the frosted areas. The side 1/4 glass will have to be made, but these are simple, featureless glass with a very minor curve that can be made easily so I'm not concerned with them. The windshield/rear window are not compound curved, so they shouldn't be too hard either. I've had good luck in the past with Butyrate sheet, it bends without discoloring. We'll see.

 



I'm interested in the Chinese food place, can you give us some insight ???? ;)

 

Nice job on fixing the Mustang and having a 1:1 in the driveway surely helps. Thanks for sharing a simple fix for those that are striving for more accuracy.

 

Easy. Golden Valley in Mesa. Great food, huge portions, all fresh ingredients, and the price is like a flashback to the '80s. Best chain: Panda Express.

 

-MJS


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 03 November 2013 - 08:28 AM.


#14 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 10:06 AM

Mike, I see you did yours just a bit different, but with the same results, a much better looking roof. I cut the door window casings out, cut the roof right at the top of the windows, added the material, shortened the roof the required amount, and glued the roof back on. I am in the process of making the drip railing right now.

 

Then again, when you buy a DOZEN of them (putting MY money where MY mouth is, as it was put) makes it easy to experiment with. Also, having the 1:1 does make it easy when reference is right there. Now, how about those who didn't step up and do, now that TWO paths to fixing it have been mentioned/shown?   :)

 

Bradley, I'd like to see how you did that. A dozen? Ya building a whole police force?  B)  And yes, having a real one does have its' advantages.

 

Looks a lot better Mike! I'm sure a lot of us will be taking notes. But, we shouldn't have to make major modifications like this to a kit manufactured in 2013. Not many average builders have the skills to unchop a top, make windows, etc. etc. Is the slope of the trunk area/tops of the quarter panels right? It looks like the kit's trunk/quarter panels don't have enough slope to them.

 

Roger, In a perfect world, it would have been as accurate as the average AMT body from the '60s, but it's not, and here I am wanting to make a model of my driver, so here we go. As to the body mod skills, nobody is born knowing all this stuff, and the best way to learn is to start cutting. This is a good beginner/intermediate top mod, because it's not very complicated and the car is pretty square.

 

-MJS



#15 Jantrix

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 11:06 AM

The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies.

 

Boo hoo. Let's fix it.

 

Okay, you have just earned yourself a fan. Great work ethic, great work. I dig it.



#16 whale392

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 11:43 AM

No Mike, I am honoring a promise to Ed and Revell. When I first got wind of this project, I swore I would buy a case (which is 12) and so when they hit the shelves (flawed or not) I stood by my word (pre-order notwithstanding!) and bought the case. Now, I have a few to play with and a few going out in trades!

 

With that said, I am building two with the modified roof height, one as an LX Hatch, and one OOB to compare the corrected car to. Even my girlfriend dipped into my case to grab one and try to build it OOB.



#17 Abell82

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 01:13 PM

Not to be the nasty here but what's the difference between spending 20 hours to fix Revell's fiasco, and spending 20 hours to fix one of the previous resin fiasco's  

 

 Because it's plastic and not resin? It all seems SO HYPOCRITICAL to me, that I can make no sense of it.

 

I think I'll just stick to the 1/24th resins I have. At least I don't have to unchop the top!  Now where Reliable Resin's phone number...

 

100_3905_zps36f8b49a.jpg

 

 



#18 whale392

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 03:03 PM

You are right Jason. But for those who do want to spend the time to fix this Revell body,at least there are some examples to follow. My first attempt to fix the un-chopped roof was stopped mid-way because Mike here showed a better way than what I was doing. That body (of mine) has since lost its roof and trunk section and is getting a Hatch roof and section grafted on.

 

 

Mike, thanks again for showing a simpler way to do this. I am using it (with modification) on another body to get the roof dialed in. Maybe I need to start a work-in-progress thread too (or just start it down in the Fox Chassis Community Build thread)?



#19 martinfan5

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 06:11 PM

Mike, are you coming to this months Moonlinght meeting?, if so, I hope you will bring the body along with you



#20 Ben

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 06:26 PM

Now the roof is too high!!!!.......................... :lol: LOL  Sorry, I couldn't resist!!!!!! Looks a LOT better!!!!!! Bradley, being you have so many to play with, wouldn't it be easier to chop the roof off one, leaving a certain amount of post left and then chop the roof off another leaving the entire posts in tact. That way, rather than having to splice in little pieces of plastic, your working with plastic already in the shape you need it to be. I hope this makes sense.


Edited by Ben, 08 June 2013 - 06:26 PM.