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Revell 1990 Mustang LX with increased headroom.


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#21 Jantrix

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 02:11 AM

Ben, because of the angle of the posts, I think that method would not work the way you think it would. Besides, why waste another kit, when you have the skills to do it this way?



#22 madhorseman

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 02:45 AM

I think I would have tried doing it the way Ben mentioned. On the other hand Mike's way is more cost effective.

Really Nice work there Mike, and great looking 1:1 too!!

 

BTW, I like the topic line title. :lol:



#23 philo426

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 03:56 AM

What you should do is use the corrected body as a master so you or someone else can make resin replacement bodies.



#24 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:55 AM

Looks a lot better Mike! I'm sure a lot of us will be taking notes. But, we shouldn't have to make major modifications like this to a kit manufactured in 2013. Not many average builders have the skills to unchop a top, make windows, etc. etc. Is the slope of the trunk area/tops of the quarter panels right? It looks like the kit's trunk/quarter panels don't have enough slope to them.

 

Yes, the trunk doesn't slope down quite enough, and looks just a bit to bulky above the taillights. It also lacks the subtle kick up at the back edge of the trunk lid. None of this is serious, and I don't think it would detract from the model if it was left that way. But I don't intend to leave it that way.

 

 

Okay, you have just earned yourself a fan. Great work ethic, great work. I dig it.

 

Thanks!

 

-MJS



#25 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 09:00 AM

Not to be the nasty here but what's the difference between spending 20 hours to fix Revell's fiasco, and spending 20 hours to fix one of the previous resin fiasco's  

 

 Because it's plastic and not resin? It all seems SO HYPOCRITICAL to me, that I can make no sense of it.

 

I think I'll just stick to the 1/24th resins I have. At least I don't have to unchop the top!  Now where Reliable Resin's phone number...

 

 

 

It's a hobby, no hypocrisy involved. You may not have to raise the roof on the resin body, but it needs lots of other surgery to be accurate, so no easy way out. It's nice to have a choice of which one to work with, right?

 

-MJS

 

 

Mike, are you coming to this months Moonlight meeting?, if so, I hope you will bring the body along with you

 

Jonathan, I can't make this meeting, but the next one looks pretty good...

 

-MJS


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 06 December 2013 - 08:46 PM.


#26 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 09:08 AM

I think I would have tried doing it the way Ben mentioned. On the other hand Mike's way is more cost effective.

Really Nice work there Mike, and great looking 1:1 too!!

 

BTW, I like the topic line title. :lol:

 

Thanks Roy.

 

What you should do is use the corrected body as a master so you or someone else can make resin replacement bodies.

 

I think that this would be a difficult body to cast as is, because of the integral front and rear bumpers. Revell did a complicated die for this one, with several moving components to release the bodies. I believe that to cast it in resin, the front and rear bumpers would have to be cut off, have locator tabs added, and cast separately. If I'm wrong, I hope a caster comes in to correct me.

 

-MJS



#27 madhorseman

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 10:12 AM

Ain't no 'thang, Mike....(I know, not the title again :blink: ) maybe You can nickname this build Maxheadroom??



#28 LongRoofNut

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 04:27 PM

Like seeing this project unfold. Gives me ideas and shows what a bit of ingenuity can do. 



#29 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 08:08 PM

Ain't no 'thang, Mike....(I know, not the title again :blink: ) maybe You can nickname this build Maxheadroom??

 

I like it!



#30 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 08:27 PM

Today, I thought that I would correct the rear bumper. It sticks out about 2mm too far. I started by cutting it off of the body at the seam:

 

P6110085_zps91829ebc.jpg

 

Remove about this much:

 

P6110086_zps61384993.jpg

 

Add styrene strip to the top of the bumper cover to bring the taillight ridge rearward, because you just moved this detail forward so it wouldn't be under the lenses.

 

P6110087_zps2aca39ba.jpg

 

A very simple and quick mod, but it makes a difference.

 

P6110088_zpsc0026ae9.jpg

 

The next modification in line is making the rear wheel wells smaller in length.

 

-MJS


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 03 November 2013 - 08:30 AM.


#31 martinfan5

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 08:29 PM

Nice job



#32 mikemopar70

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 12:56 AM

Wow!
You did a great job correcting this kit so far, you may try to correct the kit windows to the modded height and vacuform new ones with this master..

I'm thinkin so, for mine, later!! 

Keep it on, can't wait to see more...



#33 Danno

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:00 AM

Mmmmm.  Nice work, Mike.



#34 Deathgoblin

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:29 AM

Nice work. :)  Overall it's interesting to see where this kit was off.  It doesn't seem like it's off that far, but once you see where it was off, it's hard not to spot.



#35 Agent G

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:44 AM

Nice work. :)  Overall it's interesting to see where this kit was off.  It doesn't seem like it's off that far, but once you see where it was off, it's hard not to spot.

 

Exactly.

 

On a side note, when I opened my kit and held up the body, my lovely wife commented that she could see the errors at once. She was not privy to the conversations here on the board, nor did I speak about them in her presence. She is a car person, and knows her Mustangs. Though she has never built a model she recognized the problem immediately. I found that interesting.

 

G


Edited by Agent G, 12 June 2013 - 04:44 AM.


#36 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:28 AM

Very.

 

Think Revell could benefit from having a look at this.



#37 Wonderbread Kustomz

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:55 AM

Looks real good... Me personally, I would build it without a care in the world about the roof... Glad you decided to fix it though...

#38 johnbuzzed

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:45 AM

"The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies."

 

Mike, I think the big problem with this kit is the fact that so much reference material is available to Revell, in the form of the actual, full-size car, yet, they blew it- just like with the "Rat Roaster".  It is a given that there are problems that must be dealt within one way or another with every kit, but why should major proportional/dimensional problems like this exist?



#39 Agent G

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 10:28 AM

"The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies."

 

Mike, I think the big problem with this kit is the fact that so much reference material is available to Revell, in the form of the actual, full-size car, yet, they blew it- just like with the "Rat Roaster".  It is a given that there are problems that must be dealt within one way or another with every kit, but why should major proportional/dimensional problems like this exist?

 

So, so much reference material. Volumes and volumes as well as many, many personally owned rides.  

 

I am taking copius notes and will attempt the same remedy with the next kit.

 

G



#40 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 10:33 AM

Bang-on, Mr B.