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Revell 1990 Mustang LX with increased headroom.


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#41 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 10:33 AM

Bang-on, Mr B.



#42 Harry P.

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 10:47 AM

Mike, your skills are pretty impressive. But what you've done to the kit body so far, despite your modestly, is NOT within the skill set of the average modeler.

 

Now you may fire back and say that the "average modeler" doesn't even care about making all the corrections to the body that you're making, or would even notice any of the problems... and that may very well be true. But I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job.



#43 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 11:11 AM

...I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job.

 

 

Wow. Such a sudden flood of sentiment totally beyond dispute for me.

 

Right as rain, Harry. 

 

mod·el  (mobreve.gifdprime.gifl)
n.
1. A small object, usually built to scale, that represents in detail another, often larger object

 

If we accept that a model must have the accuracy implicit in that definition, and that a model kit's very reason for existence is to satisfy a reasonable expectation for that accuracy, then yours is really the only correct and reasonable contention.



#44 Abell82

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 03:00 PM

Curious to know... have you thought out how your going to fix the trunk lid? Maybe a pie cut to each corner, and a bit of styrene strip to the middle?



#45 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:36 PM

Wow!
You did a great job correcting this kit so far, you may try to correct the kit windows to the modded height and vacuform new ones with this master..

I'm thinkin so, for mine, later!! 

Keep it on, can't wait to see more...

 

Thanks Michel. I can do the glass masters easily enough, but I don't have a vacu-form machine. But it's possible that one of the Moonlight Modelers does.

 

Mmmmm.  Nice work, Mike.

 

Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car?

 

-MJS



#46 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 05:11 PM

"The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies."

 

Mike, I think the big problem with this kit is the fact that so much reference material is available to Revell, in the form of the actual, full-size car, yet, they blew it- just like with the "Rat Roaster".  It is a given that there are problems that must be dealt within one way or another with every kit, but why should major proportional/dimensional problems like this exist?

 

John, They shouldn't exist. You can almost hear the Revell employees pointing out the roof problem to upper management, and being ignored because they were already obliged to accept a very expensive body die. (and they hoped that no one would notice)

 

Mike, your skills are pretty impressive. But what you've done to the kit body so far, despite your modestly, is NOT within the skill set of the average modeler.

 

Now you may fire back and say that the "average modeler" doesn't even care about making all the corrections to the body that you're making, or would even notice any of the problems... and that may very well be true. But I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job.

 

Harry, No arguments here. I don't want to give the impression that this is all OK with me, I'd have much preferred that it was correct out of the box. This is just to show what can be done to the kit that they decided to give us. It will be interesting to see how the magazine(s) handle this particular kit in their new kit review sections; will they kid-glove Revell so as not to ruffle feathers? or call it as they see it and politely pull no punches?

 

-MJS



#47 martinfan5

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 05:21 PM

 

Thanks Michel. I can do the glass masters easily enough, but I don't have a vacu-form machine. But it's possible that one of the Moonlight Modelers does.

 

 

Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car?

 

-MJS

Thats what I am doing with mine

 

I wonder if the master caster would be willing to cast it for you/us ?,  if so, I would be more willing to try this myself, but the front/rear windows is what is holding me up, I am waiting to see what you do when you get to that point.


Edited by martinfan5, 12 June 2013 - 05:22 PM.


#48 Jon Cole

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 05:38 PM

Are the front or rear window glass compound curved? And if not, could the glass be cut from thin flat stock, and glued down to shallow mounting lips? Seeing this modification done, makes me want to buy the kit and try my own fix. This may be one of those "It's only plastic" moments.



#49 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:02 PM

Curious to know... have you thought out how your going to fix the trunk lid? Maybe a pie cut to each corner, and a bit of styrene strip to the middle?

 

I haven't decided yet, I need to study the 1:1 a little more closely to see how far in the slope goes to the center. The duck tail will just be a blended styrene strip in the middle, tapering to the ends.

 

Are the front or rear window glass compound curved? And if not, could the glass be cut from thin flat stock, and glued down to shallow mounting lips? Seeing this modification done, makes me want to buy the kit and try my own fix. This may be one of those "It's only plastic" moments.

 

Yes, but barely. Single curve would work, although vacuformed would be best.

 

-MJS



#50 Danno

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:55 PM

 

Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car?

 

-MJS

 

 

Yep.  One of them.  Also a Colorado State Patrol, a Kansas Highway Patrol, and possibly another draft pick to be announced later.

 

Nice looking kit other than the body issues and the cheesy cartoony highway patrol decals.



#51 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 01:43 PM

Late last night, the rear wheel wells shrank down to stock size. It started off with the removal of the rocker moldings, a detail that no aero Fox has ever had.

 

P6120097_zps7952a7f7.jpg

 

Why are those wells so large? Most likely for an upcoming drag version. Big slicks fit perfectly. AMT kits in the '60s and '70s had stock wheel wells with radius guides in the back of the 1/4s, add this to the list of things that it would have been nice to see instead.

 

P6120095_zps3a402948.jpg

 

There are several ways to do this. I like to add layers of styrene strip that overhang the inside and outside of the fenders, and carve/sand down to size. This body takes two layers on the front, and three on the back of the wells.

 

P6120099_zps12b57838.jpg

 

I used files, a new exacto blade, and a sheet of 400 grit paper wrapped around a Sharpie to contour the new plastic. I used the photos and a wheel/tire as a guide to get the shape roughed in.

 

P6120100_zpsd0fa414a.jpg

 

Still a little bit of contouring to do here and there, and then it's off to the deck lid.

 

-MJS

 

 

 

 


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 03 November 2013 - 08:33 AM.


#52 Danno

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 01:44 PM

Wow.



#53 Kris Morgan

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:20 PM

Very nice work so far Mike. As far as casting this body,,The attached bumpers do not raise that much of an issue. There may need to be a few subtle changes on the back side to make it easier. Also keep in mind, resin casting is done in a flexible mold. The molds that the kit manufactures use are not flexible.



#54 george 53

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:34 PM

Kris, don't we got one of these in your catalog? Thought I already had one!



#55 Kris Morgan

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:39 PM

Nope, I do a 79 Geo. Some differences between them.



#56 whale392

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 05:26 PM

Mike, yours is looking good. I really need to get home so I can post pics of my junk builds!



#57 Skydime

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:19 PM

I am not a fan of Ford at all.  However, it's cool to watch ANYTHING get built in styrene...especially when someone is this determined to make the kit what it should have been out of the box.  And not to mention that the Fox body coupes do look pretty sweet.  Anyway, it would not surprise me that if you got this casted, and went through Ford for licensing to avoid any possible legal woahs, this could possibly be one of the best selling resin bodies of all time.

 

With that being said...resin cast or not, this is one fine build you have going on here.  Mike, I can't wait to see it under glass.  Heck, you might have even sold me on this kit after what I have seen you do on it.


Edited by Skydime, 13 June 2013 - 06:22 PM.


#58 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 04:26 PM

Very nice work so far Mike. As far as casting this body,,The attached bumpers do not raise that much of an issue. There may need to be a few subtle changes on the back side to make it easier. Also keep in mind, resin casting is done in a flexible mold. The molds that the kit manufactures use are not flexible.

 

Kris, I've handled the silicone resin molds before, I just didn't know how flexible they were, and if the inner mold could bend enough to come free from the body with the wrap of the bumpers. But if so, that's very good.

 

I am not a fan of Ford at all.  However, it's cool to watch ANYTHING get built in styrene...especially when someone is this determined to make the kit what it should have been out of the box.  And not to mention that the Fox body coupes do look pretty sweet.  Anyway, it would not surprise me that if you got this casted, and went through Ford for licensing to avoid any possible legal woahs, this could possibly be one of the best selling resin bodies of all time.

 

With that being said...resin cast or not, this is one fine build you have going on here.  Mike, I can't wait to see it under glass.  Heck, you might have even sold me on this kit after what I have seen you do on it.

 

Like Chevys? The solution is simple, get one of these and fill it up with LSX power. Getting to be a popular swap in 1:1.

 

-MJS



#59 Ben

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 04:46 PM

 

Kris, I've handled the silicone resin molds before, I just didn't know how flexible they were, and if the inner mold could bend enough to come free from the body with the wrap of the bumpers. But if so, that's very good.

 

 

Like Chevys? The solution is simple, get one of these and fill it up with LSX power. Getting to be a popular swap in 1:1.

 

-MJS

Your doing a great job on this Mike!!!! On the mold, what could be done when making the "inner" mold is to pour a thin silicone liner into the body cavity, let that cure, then form a "plug" out of a smooth material that can be easily removed from the rubber when needed. Once you have the "plug" sitting in your silicone lined shell, you then pour more silicone mold material around the plug. This will give you your silicone, inner mold with a large plug in the center. After this cures, pop your plug out, this now leaves a large cavity to carefully "fold" the remaining portion of your mold into and release the body. After you remove the inner mold from the body and release it, it will pop back into it's original shape. Place your plug back into the inner mold to make it "solid" again and you ready to cast with it.



#60 Maindrian Pace

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 04:48 PM

The 1:1 has a raised lip at the back of the trunk lid that is gradually rounded up from the edges, while the model does not have this detail.

 

fa6901bb-7ec0-4d71-b521-57396b6bfcbb_zps

 

P6130105_zpsc43f4a25.jpg

 

It also doesn't have quite enough slope to the trunk lid and 1/4 panels, so I started by block sanding the sides of the trunk and 1/4s from almost the middle to the edges, reducing the 1/4s above the taillights and straightening the slope to the back window. So the edges were reduced, but the middle of the trunk wasn't. It's reasonably close on the model, the total amount of reduction at the taillights was .75mm. You could get away without doing this, as it really doesn't detract from the car very much.

 

In this pic, it's reduced to the correct height/slope, and you can start to see the rounded lip forming in the middle.

 

P6140117_zps0892ef21.jpg

 

Here, you can see the new slope angle to the 1/4s.

 

P6140116_zps5f23e3c6.jpg

 

-MJS


Edited by Maindrian Pace, 03 November 2013 - 08:35 AM.