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2010 Mustang ProStock Update 8-19: Finished


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#1 ScaleDale

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:54 AM

Hi. I’m going to be converting a Revell 2010 Mustang into a Pro Stock car using the racers of Larry Morgan and Jim Cunningham as 1:1 references. There are a lot of body tweaks like narrowing and body extensions used in these cars and doing this with a stock model kit will require a bunch of body work that I haven’t done before, so bear with me on this.

I found a blueprint on-line for a Pro Stock Camaro built by Five Star Race Car Bodies that included NHRA approved body measurements and I used that as my guide to determine how much I could alter the Mustang. It’s all educated guesswork

 

References:

ad1j.jpg

1h18.jpg

To mark the cut lines I trimmed a strip of styrene and glued it to the centerline of the body since that would hold it in place  best and I was going to toss it anyway.

7qwa.jpg

After I cut the body the long way I put it back together to match things up before cutting the front off for the nose extension. I glued all the headlights in to add to the structural strength after I cut it. The only part of the front end that needs to be real is the headlights. The grill and running lights can be simulated. I have a decal for that.

 

akvo.jpg

I cut and extended the hood after trimming out the center portion to fit the hood scoop. The scoop is really a hat that locks tight to the carbs and the hood slides over it. The scoop I got from Competition Resins scaled out to something like 50 inches long, so I cut that down while I was at it. ProStock cars all have bowed hoods but I decided to not try that given that I have already destroyed one Mustang trying to do all this. I have the feeling that I might need to do this to clear the tunnel ram intake and carbs, and my plan is to cut the raised portion out of the center of the hood and elevate it as needed, then use sheet styrene to build out to the edges of the hood. But only if needed.

01ls.jpg

The front end is a lift off deal so I glued the hood on and used it as a marker to fit the rest of the front end in place. The stiffness of the hood kept pulling the nose up, so I glued a strip of styrene between the tail and nose to pull it down. I put a cross piece in place to position the remains of the front wheel wells while I added reinforcing stuff and got to the putty stage. Kinda looks like I crucified the poor thing.

71va.jpg

 

More body work to be done today. Wish me luck.

 

Dale


Edited by ScaleDale, 19 August 2013 - 07:47 PM.


#2 Bill Edman

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 08:10 PM

i like it



#3 Len Woodruff

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 03:38 AM

Interesting build. Looking to see more progress.



#4 ScaleDale

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 05:02 AM

Here is a shot of the body work I have done so far. I’m a bit ahead of my pics and may add another later today.

The front end is a bit messed up from the cutting and all so I decided to forgo the headlights and filled the grill edge to edge with epoxy putty. I have a Slixx decal that will give me a simulated grill and headlights. Not NHRA approved for Pro/S, but it’s a model. I’m also going to let the hood bow slide for now and not fully finish that ares. Since the hood scoop fits to the top of the carbs and the front end slides on over that, I may need to raise the center of the hood to clear that assemble, but I won’t know how much until I have the frame and motor set. So I’m not going to invest a lot of time in finish work on the hood in case I wind up reaching for the saw and putty.

Pic:

x8pp.jpg

 

Than ks for your interest in my project.

 

Dale



#5 Car Man

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 05:37 AM

more please



#6 ScaleDale

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 07:24 AM

^^ I can do that ;)

 

Here is the car as it stands now. I tacked a strip of styrene to either end of the front bumper and let the tension of the material form a more natural curve than I was able to get with putty, then filled the gap with epoxy as recommended by folks over in Q&A. It worked out well. The insides of the weel wells are trimmed with narrow strips of sheet styrene and I trimmed the running board off and replaced it with a work in progress spoiler, trimmed the rear wells, too. I,ve roughed the whole body with 400 and will go over that with 600 and 1500 today, but that will do for body work until I get closer to painting. With the nose stretched I'm not sure about the looks of the stock hood bump and may smooth that down into an even transition to the leading edge of the hood. Need to look at my reference pics again. The scoops really dominate the front views of these cars.

 

I'm pulling parts from the '55 Chevy Pro Sportsman kit amd narrowed the interior panels to fit. I'm going to cut it between the floor and wheel tubbs so that the floor can be installed in a real full tube frame rather than becoming a base that the frame is built on like in the Revell kits. The tubbs will mount to the rear frame extension.

 

The last pic is a chassis I built just to see if I was nuts enough to try this or not. I did the design based off the generic Pro Mod chassis from Chassis Works. If you want to get to know what frames look like, go over to ChassisWorks.com and have a look.

 

boj3.jpgp9zb.jpggfm.jpg

 

Thanks for your time and comments. Got to do some computer work to design the chassis now.

 

Dale



#7 iBorg

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 08:11 AM

I'm impressed. You've attempted something I don't thing I'd even think about building.

 

Mike



#8 Mooneyzs

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 08:55 AM

Dale... Awesome build man. I will be following this one for sure. The body is looking great and I am sure it's a lot of work to cut up but will be well worth it in the end. keep up the great work



#9 azers

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 06:43 AM

You should look at resin casting the body when it is done and keep working off the resin body. With all the cut and pasting to the original body your bodywork may show up later in the final product. Besides you could then sell us copies of your bodie to recoup some of your cost. Just a idea.

Interesting project so far. Followimg it with interest.

#10 brett

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 06:35 PM

Nice work Dale, that body looks great so far



#11 ScaleDale

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 10:45 PM

Since the site has been down for a while, I decided to break my updates up into sections and keep working on the Mustang. I’ll post a few pics and updates each day until I get caught up to where I actually am on this.

I gave the body a coat of primer to show all the defects and set it aside until I get closer to the final stages of construction. A guy can only take so much sanding, you know.

To build the chassis I’m going to use a variety of styrene rod to make it look more real. 2 mm for the main rails and 1.6 and 1.4 mm for supports and cross braces. I made a jig the last time I did a chassis and it turned out to be more of a hastle than it was worth so this time I’m going to work in sections and take my time rather than try to assemble the whole thing at once. It actually fell apart when I last did this.

To get the dimensions right, I took pictures of my body and used them as overlays in PhotoShop and my drawing program, Illustrator, as guides. I stuck a scaled copy of a ChassisWorks Avenger ProMod in the frame as a guide and adapted it to the Mustang body. I used a different color for the floor, side walls, roll cage and tail piece so I could tell what was what from the top view. I printed this out as a pattern while I did my building.

7vhd.jpg

fatj.jpg

4uyi.jpg


Here’s the body as it stands now (6/25). The primer really brought out the areas that need more work.

4mfq.jpg

More to come tomorrow. Thanks for looking.

Dale
 



#12 PappyD340

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 11:34 PM

FANTASTIC job so far Dale, keep those updates coming!! :D 



#13 ScaleDale

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 06:23 AM

Written 6/25

 

With the floor of the frame done,  I started on the harder part, everything with a curve to it. I’ve worked with styrene rod and a heat gun before and the results sometimes aren’t pretty. If the gun is too hot (they all are) or you hold it too close or too long the rod turns to live spaghetti and goes all weird on you. Then it cools and you’re stuck with the results. Fun.

To form the sides of the main cage, I traced a pattern on a block of wood and cut it with my little table saw and sanded it smooth. I taped two pieces or rod together to get the sides the same and molded them around the pattern with the heat gun. This took several tries with a few variations but I was able to get something usable. Initial fit was too tight but I decided to break it down and cut it a bit rather than make another.

The 55 Chevy Pro Sportsman kit has been a donor for this project and the floor pan and wheel tubs fit my developing chassis pretty well.

The tail section is built and setting, and I’ll show that in the next post.9570.jpg

 

6/26

Two of the harder parts of the chassis turned out to be the hoop at the back of the drivers cage and the tight double cage that encloses the drivers seat. I gave up on styrene rod for these and used a product from Plastruct that is really a wire covered on plastic. Some builders don’t like it because Tamiya thin cement won’t react with it, but Plastruct Plastic Weld works fine. It bonds this stuff to styrene like, well, glue. It’s very strong and really attacks the surface. It breaks it down to the point that you can work it with a knife and truly weld the pieces together. I used it for all of the chassis work on this project. It’s too strong for most model applications but works great for sticking stuff fast and strong. Using the wire rod allowed me to bend key parts to fit very tightly.

Here’s the chassis with the tail piece and wheel tubs blocked in place. I cut out the center of the tubs to use the frame to hang the rear suspension from. That will come from the 55 Sportsman with some add-ons coming from Future Attraction.

ugof.jpg

And with all of the side cross bracing and the drivers personal cage. It’s probably a bit over braced, but I want it to be strong.

x7co.jpg

Here is a shot of the fit on the body and frame. I gave the hood scoop a trial fit on the carbs and I needed to open up the hood some more, That’s why I’m not doing any more body work for a while. I’m really pleased with the fit.

 

kv9o.jpg
 

Thanks for the time. More to come tomorrow.

 

Dale

 

 



#14 cruz

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 09:09 AM

Very cool, I'll be watching!!!



#15 cobraman

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 09:23 AM

Great work !



#16 slusher

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 01:11 PM

Awsume body work, great work so far...



#17 ScaleDale

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 09:05 PM

(6/27 in the Time of Black Out)

 

Hi, again. I got the last of the chassis finished and sprayed with grey primer yesterday and last night. The little bike basket thing on the front end was difficult to do because the material for it was so small at 1.2 mm. It’s a part of Larry Morgan’s car and a lot of the other Pro Stockers have it too. It holds the fuel cell, radiator and stuff like that. They also hang weights on it if they are under the NHRA weight limit. It turned out pretty good, I think.

I’m going to paint the chassis with Tamiya Gun Metal and do the rear sheet metal in one of the Alclad aluminum colors. Dark aluminum, maybe?

Some PE from Future Attraction showed up today and I’m going to use their 4 Link rear suspension kit, wheelie bar and strut front. I need to see if I can run down some really tiny nuts and bolts to attach it all together. Enjoy the pics and thanks to my assistant, Dogbert. The color of the chassis in primer didn’t really show up until I let him into the photo booth.

yp78.jpg

6u4b.jpg

vuor.jpg

yk3e.jpg

x8wt.jpg

 

Thanks for your time. More to share in a dayh or two.

 

Dale



#18 PappyD340

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 11:26 PM

Very NICE scratching Dale, looks great so far, keep up the good work!! :D 



#19 vintagedragfan

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 01:23 AM

very nice work on the body and chassis Dale!!



#20 3men2s

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 03:02 AM

WHAT AN ASOME JOB SO FAR