Jump to content


Revell Chevy Silverado - Crew cab & 4WD conversion


  • You cannot reply to this topic
60 replies to this topic

#41 Platerpants

Platerpants

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,594 posts
  • Location:Chardon Ohio
  • Full Name:Jake Bridges

Posted 11 September 2013 - 03:16 AM

Hmm Very nice 



#42 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 14 September 2013 - 01:29 PM

Thanks Jake!   :)

 

 This week I was researching and experimenting with some weathering techniques.  I really like the Salt Weathering technique. I posted a thread about it in the Tips and Trick section here.

 

I'll post some more about this technique in this thread later when I get to that point in the build


Edited by dmk, 14 September 2013 - 01:30 PM.


#43 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 16 September 2013 - 06:03 AM

I finally started working on the engine this week. Most guys do this part first right? 

 

The engine in this kit is very nicely molded and is a great candidate for an engine swap into a Jeep or an older year truck.  It can be built to represent an LQ4 6.0L or LM7 5.3L by painting the block black or it could also be built as the aluminum block L33 5.3L by painting the block an aluminum color. Externally there are no differences between these three engines other than the L33's alum block.  Compared to my references, the engine detail is spot on.

 

 The one potential problem I noticed is the plug wires are molded on the cylinder head where they plug into the spark plugs and they are supposed to meet up with their other half molded on the valve covers where they plug into the individual coil packs. However, with just a few light passes with a sanding stick, the valve covers fit tight and the wires matched up perfectly. You'd have to get a jewelers loop to see where they joined. 

 

I started by assembling the engine/transmission halves and fixing a few minor seam issues. Then I found all the engine components and painted then with a flat black base coat (except for the oil filter, oil pan, fan blade, and exhaust manifolds. I wanted them to have a smoother finish).   After the black base coat dried, I painted the components with varying shades of silver. The block was painted semi-gloss black and the intake manifold pieces were left flat black.

 

Using reference pictures as a guide, I hand painted the aluminum areas of the valve covers with Testors Flat Aluminum. The plug wires were hand painted with Tamiya Nato Black.

 

The exhaust manifolds were painted with Alclad Light Aluminum for the heat shield. Using reference pictures as a guide, I then painted the flanges, the back side and various detail areas with Testors Rubber (which is very dark brown, not gray as you'd think). I dry brushed some Testors Rust over the darker color to give it some highlights, then with a fine clean brush dampened with a little mineral spirits, I gently wiped across to blend everything together.

2013-09-15224447.jpg

 

The fan belt assembly was airbrushed with Tamiya Nato Black and then I hand painted the pulleys with Testors semi-gloss black. The fan itself was painted with Testors Flat Sand that I mixed a little yellow in. I mixed it very thin with mineral spirits and misted it lightly over the bare white plastic until it looked about right. The flan clutch was then painted with Testors Flat Euro Gray.

2013-09-16113159.jpg

 

The oil filter was airbrushed with Testors Gloss Blue and while I had the blue in the paintcup, I painted some washer fluid at the bottom of the windshield washer reservoir. I masked the top half with poster putty and shaped the edge around the part using a toothpick carved into a chisel shape. Once the blue dries, I'll seal it with Testor's Glosscoat lacquer and then spray a light, thinned coat of off-white over the whole thing.

2013-09-16113259.jpg


Edited by dmk, 16 September 2013 - 06:07 AM.


#44 Platerpants

Platerpants

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,594 posts
  • Location:Chardon Ohio
  • Full Name:Jake Bridges

Posted 16 September 2013 - 07:11 AM

looking good



#45 Davewilly

Davewilly

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,795 posts
  • Location:Surprise, Arizona
  • Full Name:Dave Wilmore

Posted 16 September 2013 - 07:27 AM

Looking good!



#46 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 17 September 2013 - 01:35 AM

Thanks guys!  :)



#47 Kit Basher

Kit Basher

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 816 posts
  • Location:Virginia
  • Full Name:Hugh

Posted 17 September 2013 - 02:23 AM

Really nice work and lots of cool techniques demonstrated. I enjoy learning something new, so thanks for sharing this, and keep it up!



#48 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 17 September 2013 - 04:41 AM

Thanks Hugh. I'm glad you're enjoying it.

 

 None of my techniques are original. I've learned them from someone else here or elsewhere on the web. I'm just re-sharing them in the hopes of getting someone else's creative juices flowing as well.



#49 LoudFordPypes

LoudFordPypes

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 35 posts
  • Location:Winthrop Maine
  • Full Name:Brandon B

Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:28 PM

Thats a awesome build so far! love the trail rig ideas and also a good use of a 2 wheel drive



#50 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:12 AM

Thanks Brandon!

 

 I've never liked 2WD on a truck, so every truck kit I get, I immediately start thinking about how I might convert it to 4WD.   :)



#51 Platerpants

Platerpants

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,594 posts
  • Location:Chardon Ohio
  • Full Name:Jake Bridges

Posted 26 September 2013 - 12:57 PM

Thanks Brandon!

 

 I've never liked 2WD on a truck, so every truck kit I get, I immediately start thinking about how I might convert it to 4WD.   :)

Im a northern ohio resident so 4x4 is essentially a must have in the winter. 2x4 trucks dont sit high enough either i like em up a little, and with some mud on them.



#52 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 26 September 2013 - 02:17 PM

Im a northern ohio resident so 4x4 is essentially a must have in the winter. 2x4 trucks dont sit high enough either i like em up a little, and with some mud on them.

I built an MPC Jeep CJ5 last year. It was my first automotive model in a long while so I didn't weather it at all. I like how it came out, but it has always bothered me that it's squeaky clean. It just seems incomplete. That is one of the primary goals of this model. Well used with trail damage, dirt and mud.  I just hope I can pull it off convincingly. If I can do it on this one, I may go back and muddy up that Jeep.


Edited by dmk, 26 September 2013 - 02:18 PM.


#53 whitetrash

whitetrash

    MCM Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 5 posts

Posted 13 October 2013 - 02:31 PM

Love the level of detail you have put into this build! One thing I have to mention though, the part you painted to represent the washer fluid reservior is actually the coolant overflow bottle and should have orange fluid in it to represent the extended life "Dexcool" antifreeze. The washer fluid bottle is hidden behind the front bumper on these trucks, if you need any reference photos I would be happy to shoot some of my 1:1 truck for you.

#54 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 14 October 2013 - 01:52 AM

Doh!  :o

 

 Thanks for the heads up! I'm glad you caught that. I should have checked my references more carefully before making that assumption.  Luckily It's not too late to fix it.  (It's ironic because I actually use RainX orange washer fluid in my car, and almost went with that, but then thought blue looked more normal)

 

Thanks for the offer of reference photos. I actually found a lot of good photos of these trucks on the web, so I don't want to put you through the trouble. If I get stuck on something I'll shoot you a PM though.



#55 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 18 November 2013 - 12:16 PM

Wow, I can't believe it's been more than a month since I last worked on this kit. Well, at least I think I've made some good progress in the last few days.

Did some detailing on the grill. Added a parts box winch and some tow hooks (made from wire).

2013-09-08201911.jpg

 

2013-09-08202006.jpg

 

 

I mounted the engine and exhaust on the completed chassis, and decided it is finally time to start some weathering.

First, I mixed up some cheap craft paint. I used about five shades of browns and tans. To thin it, I poured some Liquitex Airbrush medium into a small cup about 60% full. I then took a craft stick and added a small amount of craft paint to the mix until I got it about the consistency of 2% milk. I fine tuned the mixture with Testors Acryl universal thinner until it was thin enough to airbrush.

I wouldn't want to use this as a primary paint, but for weathering I think it works very nicely. One of the common complaints about craft paint is that it isn't very durable on plastic. For weathering I think that is actually a benefit. Mud and dirt are not durable either. They are easily wiped or washed off, so the the weathering will get rubbed off on some of the high spots from handling, it actually makes it look more realistic. You can make it more durable by mixing in some Future and Tamiya X-21 flattening agent (to balance out the glossiness the Future will add) .

This mixture will keep pretty well too. I used some that I mixed a month ago.

 

2013-09-28230548.jpg

 

With the paint ready, I broke out some salt. I'm using both course and find salt mixed together in a small cup.

 

2013-09-14184015.jpg

 

I used a small pump spray bottle (I found you can also use your airbrush) to liberally spray water over the parts and generously sprinkled some salt around randomly. Set this aside to dry overnight (or at least a few hours if it is a dry day).

2013-11-11150837.jpg

 

Once the water dried, I airbrushed some dark brown randomly around (check some reference pictures of real vehicles). You only need to let the paint dry about 30min to an hour and then you can wet it and put on another layer of salt. The next day hit it with your next color. Each time I went to the next lighter shade, until after five times, I was at a light tan. About the third coat, I wiped off most of the salt because it was building up quite a bit. then I wet it again and added a fresh layer of salt on. Maybe this gave me a more random pattern and gave the lighter tans more coverage.

Finally, after the last coat of tan dried, I took a stiff toothbrush, and scrubbed off the salt. I rinsed the assemblies under warm water in the sink and scrubbed some more to get the stubborn salt off.  You will wipe off some of the paint, but I think it adds to the effect.

 

2013-11-14172427.jpg

 

2013-11-17101543.jpg

 

2013-11-15153911.jpg



#56 Skydime

Skydime

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,358 posts
  • Location:Eastern Kentucky, US
  • Full Name:Ken Black

Posted 18 November 2013 - 12:38 PM


2013-09-08201911.jpg

 

 

Glad to see someone else open up the front end on this kit.  It really makes a world of difference!


Edited by Skydime, 18 November 2013 - 01:10 PM.


#57 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 18 November 2013 - 02:29 PM

I think it did also.   :)

 

 It wasn't hard to do on this kit either. Just took a course sanding stick and sanded down the back of the grill. I held it up to a light and checked periodically to see how thin it was getting. Once I broke through, I trimmed the flash with an exacto knife.

 

2013-09-01161638.jpg


Edited by dmk, 18 November 2013 - 05:17 PM.


#58 Foxer

Foxer

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,976 posts
  • Location:The Berkshires, Massachusetts
  • Full Name:Mike DeRagon

Posted 18 November 2013 - 02:40 PM

I've been silently watching this build and just have to say it's been totally enjoyable and the truck is looking fantastic! It's good to see all the things used bringing it along.



#59 kilrathy10

kilrathy10

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,901 posts
  • Location:Spring, Tx.
  • Full Name:JT Williams

Posted 18 November 2013 - 04:34 PM

This is some really good stuff, Man.....I really like how you went about this one.....You've outlined the procedure very well.....Great work....I'm totally impressed....



#60 dmk

dmk

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Location:NC
  • Full Name:Dave Koch

Posted 18 November 2013 - 04:44 PM

Thanks guys!  I'm glad you are enjoying the build.  I'm having a lot of fun with it too.