smileys-winkende-046.gif 7.06KB 0 downloads
The appearance of otherwise outstanding builds in 1/12 or smaller is completely spoilt if modelers fit those plastic "wire" wheels of the kit. Even the best kit rims (in 1/24 Fujimi and, surprisingly, Protar) have thick spokes entirely out of scale.
You could replace them by aftermarket photoetched parts if you happen to find the appropriate size for your project, if you are willing to pay a lot of money, and if you think that adding purchased parts to nowadays almost perfect kits can still be called modeling.
Otherwise you might be interested in my following technique.
I. What can my technique do?
It is applicable to any scale between 1/16 and 1/43. I am sure it works in 1/12 too.
The making is fast and, once understood, a routine job.
The wheels are delicate but very sturdy.
You can replicate any wheel design you need.
A set of wheels will cost you almost nothing.
Last but not least you can say you made them youself.
You can expect results like these:
comp_Rad Atlantic68.jpg 39.65KB 3 downloads 1/24 standard rim i. e. with spokes on 2 levels
comp_Rad W19668.jpg 39.29KB 1 downloads 1/24 racing rim with spokes on 3 levels
comp_Rad Daytona68.jpg 38.54KB 1 downloads 1/24 drop center rim
comp_Rad HD68.jpg 39.39KB 3 downloads 1/24 motor-cycle rim
comp_Rad Alfetta68.jpg 39.18KB 1 downloads 1/20 standard rim
comp_Rad Phantom68.jpg 36.92KB 1 downloads1/16 standard rim
You can see complete vehicles here:
II.The basic principle of my technique
When I was interested in 1/35 military modeling around 1980 there were some nice motor-cycle models. They were well-detailed but had spoke wheels that looked absurd. I found a fast and easy way to replace the thick plastic spokes by real wire spokes. I described it in this German magazine article that was published in 1984. comp_MF68.jpg 39.94KB 1 downloads You can see that here the spokes were applied directly to the plastic wheel halves. This technique is okay for very narrow rims as bikes, motor-cycles and and very few vintage cars, where all spokes are fixed very close to the centerline of the rim well , but on all other cars this looks completely unrealistic. This method is so obvious that it seems to be re-invented from time to time.
The difference to my technique I use since the mid-eighties for cars is to remove a radial section of the kit rim including spokes and hub and to replace it by a self-made unit.
I described this technique in an article that was published in April 1995 in FSM. I asked them for permission to show this old article in a German forum together with an update but never got any answer. That was not very polite, was it? smileys-wuetende-043.gif 17.46KB 3 downloads
This is why I write this complete new how-to-do here.
III.What abilities are required?
This is certainly nothing for the novice but if you are able to make simple conversions you will cope with all problems. Some knowledge in geometry is essential and if you tend to miscalculate you might have a problem.
To be continued after supper
Please give me some response. I would like to know how many users will follow this topic. If anything is incomprehensible, if any questions occur please let me know as soon as possible. This contribution will require more than one evening, so I want to be sure that everything is understandable. Thanks!
Edited by Plastheniker, 29 July 2013 - 07:23 AM.