I'd like to build mt Italeri Pete 378 with a set back front axle. Anyone have any tips or hints that might help me? Tim, Haven't you done one of these? Anyone else?
Lee
0
Pete 378 SBA
Started by mrglubaum, Jul 05 2006 01:14 PM
3 replies to this topic
#2
mackinac359
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Posted 06 July 2006 - 07:16 AM
I've done several 378-SBFA conversions to the Italeri kit.
You have three choices, resin pre-04 hood, resin '04-07 hood and scratchbuilding a pre-04 hood.
For scratchbuilding, take the kit hood, slice off the lower portion of the hood on both sides (equal and even cuts).
Reinstall the lower hood section and fenders rearward to account for a 47" set-back. You will need to scratchbuild the bumper, or use one from a 377 kit modified.
Either scribe of cut the fenders where the hood-to-cab line is. This portion of the fenders is mounted to the chassis and cab on the real truck. On mine I fix the hood closed to avoid all the fitment issues.
The battery and toolboxes will need to be moved rearward slighting (the kit has mounting holes for a rear and forward mounting box) or mount the fuel tanks forward and the battery box aft of them, or use a COE style battery box or.. about any combination is/was available from Peterbilt.
Headlight mounting location can be the higher-up on the grille location that the kit has or down low, which affords more protection for the lamp housing in obsticle filled construction sites. IF you do this, you'll need to fill in the existing mounting holes OR use a grille from a 377 kit.
If you need more info, just post or email.
Tim
You have three choices, resin pre-04 hood, resin '04-07 hood and scratchbuilding a pre-04 hood.
For scratchbuilding, take the kit hood, slice off the lower portion of the hood on both sides (equal and even cuts).
Reinstall the lower hood section and fenders rearward to account for a 47" set-back. You will need to scratchbuild the bumper, or use one from a 377 kit modified.
Either scribe of cut the fenders where the hood-to-cab line is. This portion of the fenders is mounted to the chassis and cab on the real truck. On mine I fix the hood closed to avoid all the fitment issues.
The battery and toolboxes will need to be moved rearward slighting (the kit has mounting holes for a rear and forward mounting box) or mount the fuel tanks forward and the battery box aft of them, or use a COE style battery box or.. about any combination is/was available from Peterbilt.
Headlight mounting location can be the higher-up on the grille location that the kit has or down low, which affords more protection for the lamp housing in obsticle filled construction sites. IF you do this, you'll need to fill in the existing mounting holes OR use a grille from a 377 kit.
If you need more info, just post or email.
Tim
#3
mrglubaum
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Posted 08 July 2006 - 04:50 AM
Thanks, Tim! Would I be better off using the 377 frame? Does it have the correct set-back? I assume the measurement you gave was from the front bumper, right? Thanks!
#4
mackinac359
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Posted 08 July 2006 - 01:41 PM
Lee
The 378 and 377 chassis are identicle except for the front springs and the mounting for the sleeper are slightly different.
Email me off group for a pic that I can't post on the web.
Tim
The 378 and 377 chassis are identicle except for the front springs and the mounting for the sleeper are slightly different.
Email me off group for a pic that I can't post on the web.
Tim
