After paying way too much attention to rules and 1:1 stuff in my Mustang build, I decided to relax a bit and ProMod a ’49 Merc.
Before I go anywhere with this, I want to extend my apologies to Dr. Cranky for what I’m about to do to this beautiful auto. The 49 Merc was off my radar until I found his YouTube links and watched his various builds on this car. In fact, Cranky’s responsible for my being here at all. I found MCM by following the links he posted on his home page at the Lab-Rat-Ory… Gotta love the guy for all he has done for scale auto modeling. Even if weathering isn’t your bag.
Since there’s some interest on the board as to how to whack up a perfectly good model, I’ll post a few more photos as I go. This is how I do this and everyone has a different approach.
As far as NHRA stuff goes, all I need to really concern myself with is wheelbase and width over the rear axle. The limit for wheelbase in PM is 115 inches and the stock Merc is 118, so that’s not a big deal with the fender skirts left on. I figured it needs to be narrowed by around 5 or 6mm to make it the scale equivalent to 70 inches at the back axle. Rather than cut that right out of the middle, I wanted to preserve some of the character of the car in the nose and top so I cut it to the right and left of center in those areas. My way of marking that was to glue strips of 2mm 1/2 round down the length of the car to guide my cuts. Getting glue on the body of a car is a big no-no, but I’m going to throw it away, right?
Here’s what it looks like before the cuts with a little coming off the bottom as well.
The cutting is done with the back side of a fresh razor knife blade that is turned around to the sharp side when the cut starts to show through the plastic. Some of the curves and thicker plastic required a razor saw.
Now to put it back together… I used thin tabs of styrene to help align the sides of the pieces while I reassembled the car. I started at the back and worked towards the front one section at a time using liquid or gel glue or CA, depending on what worked.
And it looked like this. The gaps in the nose are going to take a little more body work than I would like.
Here’s the nose after an application of Milliput two part epoxy putty, something that I learned about here on this forum. It works like clay and hardens like sand able rock. The adhesive quality of the epoxy helps a lot in stabilizing a project like this. I applied it to the inside of all of the joints until is started to seep out just a bit. It reacts with water and a wet finger can be used to smith and thin it out. It comes in several grades and this is Standard Yellow-Grey
The first stage of the outside is Milliput Extra Fine White.
This will cure overnight in my dehydrator before I start to sand it.
Thanks for your time.
Edited by ScaleDale, 19 October 2013 - 05:14 AM.