Jump to content


Tamiya Subaru BRZ


  • You cannot reply to this topic
50 replies to this topic

#21 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:16 AM

Update 27.08.2013

Good morning. Too freaking early...


Lots done last night.


Battery and brake master cylinder assembled:


NWP_130826_0000.jpg


Another view:


NWP_130826_0001.jpg


Battery on firewall:


NWP_130826_0002.jpg


Battery and brake cylinder. You can the botched battery posts:


NWP_130826_0003.jpg


And windshield bottom assembled. Going to let that dry before fixing battery.


NWP_130826_0004.jpg


Grill assembled into front bumper:


NWP_130826_0006.jpg


Back to battery, fixed (paint still a little wet):


NWP_130826_0007.jpg


Reverse light cluster and bumper assembled (three different parts):


NWP_130826_0008.jpg




 


#22 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:18 AM

Latest update part 2 (too many pics!):

 

Front fog lights assembled. I botched the driver's side lights, going to need to fix that once everything is dry. frown.gif


NWP_130826_0009.jpg


Firewall installed into main body:


NWP_130826_0010.jpg
Front and rear bumper taped and glued.


NWP_130826_0011.jpg


Hood joints:


NWP_130826_0012.jpg


Full body:


NWP_130826_0013.jpg


Side view:


NWP_130826_0014.jpg


Rear view:


NWP_130826_0015.jpg


Front view:


NWP_130826_0016.jpg


That's all for now. Next is the window but I need to research how to tint models. It seems pretty straight forward but I don't want to screw it up.



#23 Kennyboy

Kennyboy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,642 posts
  • Location:SE Wisconsin
  • Full Name:Ken Boyer

Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:36 AM

I had a good time reading your build story. It is super cool that your wife is helping you with this....(keeper!)

 

Keep going it is looking great!!



#24 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 27 August 2013 - 08:26 AM

Your  posting is well done and builds a cool story.  I like the project you're working on, if I was going to buy a new car, that would be one I'd be seriously looking at to replace my '95 Celica GT convertible!

 

 

 Thanks!  I can't say enough good about the real BRZ.  It isn't as fast as it looks, but the aftermarket is really ramping up.  One of the forum members slapped on a supercharger.  Lots of room in that engine bay!

  

"For the most parts, people don't paint things still on the sprue tree for a number of reasons."

 

This was a concern I had at the very beginning after studying the assembly directions - LOTS of tiny parts and my clumsy macro hands would have trouble with keeping prints off and etc.

 

"Often this will need to be sanded flat, and on some kits these are in prominent places.  Also, we usually have to clean up molding process imperfections like ejector pin marks and mold seams. That's all best done off the tree."

 

When I have been painting on the sprue, I've been making sure to sand down and make everything look nice (I hope it looks nice!).

 

"I do spray everything, so I mount the parts on toothpicks stuck into small Styrofoam blocks (taken from old electronics packaging) and spray accordingly."

 

I can't spray everything...yet.  :)

 

"Also, for most kits, you will want to try out the fit of parts prior to painting them in case you need to sand / modify them to fit."

 

I've also been making sure to do this, but it's a well made kit like you said and it hasn't needed anything except for the brake cylinder - I had to cut down the half circle that it mounted to - it wouldn't fit flush.

 

"You are doing very well for your first kit in a long time!"

 

Thanks!  Please keep the comments coming, I love feedback.  (Of course I do, I'm a musician...)



#25 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 27 August 2013 - 08:28 AM

I had a good time reading your build story. It is super cool that your wife is helping you with this....(keeper!)

 

Keep going it is looking great!!

 

Thanks!  Yeah I think she's a good one.  :) 



#26 Bennyg

Bennyg

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 904 posts
  • Location:Australia
  • Full Name:Ben Glasby

Posted 27 August 2013 - 10:45 AM

Very cool. I plan to build an aoshima version so it like my own 1-1 version. Cool back story as well.

Ben

#27 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 27 August 2013 - 02:52 PM

Okay, next step: I need to tint the windows.  I was a good forum member and searched, and found the Big Three suggestions:

 

RIT, Spray, and real window tint.

 

But, Tamiya has provided a mask for the window framing, and that adds to my situation and concerns.

 

1. RIT dyes the WHOLE piece of plastic, unlike a 1:1 tint job which coats the inside of the glass only (I'm a striving perfectionist...want it to be just like the real one).

 

2. I'm not confident with my spray painting skills - I'm afraid I'd botch it with overspray (and I've also read the comments about Testor's not-so-great quality).  I don't have spare windows hanging around to test, either.

 

3. Real window tint: too thick????

 

So - what to do, and what order?  Should I mask and paint the trim, then tint, or opposite?

 

Your thoughts?



#28 Bill Eh?

Bill Eh?

    MCM Avid Poster

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 357 posts
  • Location:Toronto, ON
  • Full Name:Bill Allen

Posted 27 August 2013 - 04:47 PM

I love the story-telling style that you have used to convey your build progress. Everything looks super thus far.

As far as window tint. Try "Future" or as it is now called in Canada, "Pledge with Future Shine". This could be coloured with food colouring and brushed or sprayed on the interior of the window parts. If sprayed on, just make sure to clean out the airbrush immediately after. Test it out on a clear section of sprue runner from the kit. If you are unhappy with the result, it will clean off with Isopropyl Alcohol. Worth a try. Good luck with the rest of the build. And as Tom said, there are a number of individuals on the Forum who appreciate all good builds. I am kind of a Tamiya fanatic myself.



#29 nhra1625

nhra1625

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 113 posts
  • Location:South Riding, VA
  • Full Name:Peter DeVita Jr

Posted 27 August 2013 - 05:04 PM

I have a can of VHT Nite Shades and I used it on my 1:1 cobalt tail lights and it is nice. I can try it on some spare model class and show you how it comes out

#30 Foxer

Foxer

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,077 posts
  • Location:The Berkshires, Massachusetts
  • Full Name:Mike DeRagon

Posted 28 August 2013 - 01:15 AM

It's good to see this getting built to see how the kit is. You're doing a great job .. on the build and documenting the kit. 

 

Building a kit of a car you own is really fun ... what I get hung up on most of the time. You'll have to throw us a shot of your 1:1 BRZ. :)



#31 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:06 AM

It's good to see this getting built to see how the kit is. You're doing a great job .. on the build and documenting the kit. 

 

Building a kit of a car you own is really fun ... what I get hung up on most of the time. You'll have to throw us a shot of your 1:1 BRZ. :)

 

Thanks!

 

Don't worry - I'll have some comparison shots with the two together once I'm done, which should be about two weeks.



#32 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:18 AM

Update 29.08.2013

An update.


Sorry for the blurry pictures - I'm now using an actual camera and trying to figure out settings. The camera also doesn't give a review of the picture once you take it, and I didn't notice it was blurred until I had moved on. Oh well.


So I researched a bit for window tinting, and just decided to use Tamiya Smoke spray on the tint. I tested it on an old Countach model that I'm planning on redo-ing and it came out better than I thought.


So, step one for windows, masking. Here is the rear window masked and ready to go.


DSC00374.jpg


After painting and removing the mask. A couple of bleed through spots but that's easy to clean up.


DSC00377.jpg


Cleaned up:


DSC00378.jpg


Another shot (better):


DSC00379.jpg


Front/side windows masked part one:


DSC00380.jpg


Complete masking:


DSC00381.jpg


Painted, mask removed. A couple more bleed throughs but it was better than the back window - until I noticed that the mask covered the top too much. I'll have to do some fine touch ups tonight.


DSC00383-1.jpg

I thought I took more pictures but apparently that was it. I'll take more this afternoon.

On the docket for today: finish window trim edging and then first light coat of smoke (of a great many).


#33 Bennyg

Bennyg

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 904 posts
  • Location:Australia
  • Full Name:Ben Glasby

Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:09 AM

Nice work.

Ben

#34 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 01 September 2013 - 05:00 AM

Update 01.09.2013

Hey everyone, sorry about the lack of updates. I wasn't able to pull pictures off the camera on my laptop for some reason. Problem resolved, for now. So this update is a few days worth of work.

Here is the exterior, masked for painting the weatherstripping trim.

DSC02606.jpg

Windshield and side windows, after painting and masking the rearview mirror connection.

DSC02607.jpg

Both windows, masked for tint job.

DSC02608.jpg

Interior.

DSC02609.jpg

Windows after coat one of tint:

DSC02610.jpg

More updates after church.


#35 jrherald420

jrherald420

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,202 posts
  • Location:Lavergne,TN
  • Full Name:James Herald

Posted 01 September 2013 - 05:24 AM

Is the body painted a Flat or Semi-gloss? 



#36 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 01 September 2013 - 08:11 AM

The factory color is "Dark Grey Metallic" so yes, it's SUPPOSED to be glossy.  Earlier I expressed my doubts at Tamiya's suggestion to use "Dark Blue Silica" to replicate the color.  I might do a wet sand, mask up the engine bay and do another few shots of Mr. Super Clear. 



#37 Stanislove

Stanislove

    MCM Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts
  • Location:Finland
  • Full Name:Stanislav Moyiseyev

Posted 01 September 2013 - 10:49 AM

Great detail on the engine part. Keep up the good work!



#38 niteowl7710

niteowl7710

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,706 posts
  • Location:FayCoPA
  • Full Name:Doing the grunt work so the U.S. Postal Service can deliver your mail.

Posted 02 September 2013 - 07:52 AM

The possible reason the paint didn't come out the right color is that Tamiya Mica paints have to be put over a base coat of gloss aluminum TS-17, painting it over just primer causes the flat blah you've come up with here.  The Micas (there are a whole slew of them) are sort of a tinted metallic rather than an actual paint color.



#39 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 03 September 2013 - 02:15 PM

Great detail on the engine part. Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks!  Work's been a bit slow though the past few days.  Hope to pick it up again tonight or tomorrow.



#40 heptoman

heptoman

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 36 posts
  • Location:Dallas, TX
  • Full Name:topher

Posted 03 September 2013 - 02:17 PM

The possible reason the paint didn't come out the right color is that Tamiya Mica paints have to be put over a base coat of gloss aluminum TS-17, painting it over just primer causes the flat blah you've come up with here.  The Micas (there are a whole slew of them) are sort of a tinted metallic rather than an actual paint color.

 

Ugh.

 

Well, lesson learned for the second one.  (I think I decided last week to go ahead and make another one later).

 

Although the paint doesn't look like the real version, I do think it's pretty cool looking, in its own right.


Update 01.09.2013 #2

(I wasn't able to get this copied from my other forum on Sunday, but here it is....)

Rear view mirror. Small and blurry, sorry...but painted, ready for metal transfer for the mirror.


DSC02611.jpg


After metal transfer:


DSC02612.jpg


Same process for side mirrors:


DSC02613.jpg


And after:


DSC02614.jpg


Body with mirrors:


DSC02615.jpg


Rear view:


DSC02616.jpg


Top of body masked for more trim painting:


DSC02617.jpg


Tonight: painting headlights and rearlights, detailing engine bay, touching up body. Tomorrow: possibly final assembly!