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41 Willys drag coupe


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#21 Danno

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 08:26 PM

Decent!  Beautiful color and great finish,

 

Dittos on all the constructive criticism . . . and kudos to you, Anthony, for soliciting the input.



#22 Helix

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:46 PM

Nice work, throw in some engine details for added realism ;) !



#23 weasel

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 04:26 AM

yeah, the only things that jumped out at me were the 'backwards' grill mounting and the body seams are a little much...other than that, LOVE IT!!       now, on the next build, wire up the motor!!



#24 lillakev

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 05:43 AM

I agree with Niko. It's a beautiful build but the chrome on the engine and tank are really shiny. If they were stripped and painted, perhaps with Alclad, and a wash applied to bring out the details in the moldings it would be even more realistic.



#25 Mrdarkmonkey96

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 06:00 AM

yeah, the only things that jumped out at me were the 'backwards' grill mounting and the body seams are a little much...other than that, LOVE IT!!       now, on the next build, wire up the motor!!


Yeah I agree in the body seams. I actually thought it would be differemt ti put the grill in the inside. I think u t looks alright.

#26 Mrdarkmonkey96

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 04:58 AM

I agree with Niko. It's a beautiful build but the chrome on the engine and tank are really shiny. If they were stripped and painted, perhaps with Alclad, and a wash applied to bring out the details in the moldings it would be even more realistic.


Ill invest in some alcad for the next build!

#27 lordairgtar

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 06:57 AM

Everyone pretty much covered everything that I saw except one thing. It's something I strive to make sure is installed right. The headlight glass is not in correct as the lens facets appear to be on the diagonal axis. These should be placed so the facts show vertical and horizontal. I don't know if the facets will show on my 56 in the pic. One thind I will commend you on is the total lack of glue showing as far as I can see.

56Chevyfront.jpg



#28 Mrdarkmonkey96

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 08:02 AM

A few things that jump out at me ...
   * The windshield is not mounted correctly; it's too far back in the opening. It needs to pushed in until it seats into place. Also, the raised area around the perimeter of the windshield represents a trim piece that's chrome on the 1:1 vehicle. It should be covered with Bare-Metal Foil.
  * Ditto the beltline trim strips on the body sides and hood. Some 1:1 Willys have these removed or painted, so it's not mandatory they be chrome. But, it's my belief that a little BMF goes a long way toward giving a model a more "finished" appearance.
  * If you go to revell.com and request them, Revell should send you replacements for those missing taillights and that missing door handle. And they really NEED to be replaced; the model looks odd without them.
  * The openings at the ends of the headers are too small, which makes the walls of the pipes look too thick. This isn't your fault; it's the way Revell made those parts, but, they can be given a much more authentic appearance by coring out the ends with an X-Acto knife.
  * The inside of the body _ or, at least the areas that show _ needs to be painted for a neater, more finished appearance. Same goes for the underside of the hood. Flat black acrylic brush paint works well for this task.
  * Speaking of the hood, the way Revell molded it with those strange tabs to hold it in place has always been one of the weak points of this kit. If you build another Willys kit, I'd suggest cutting off the tabs and filling the slots in the body with Evergreen plastic strip. This gives a much more realistic appearance, and allows you to take the hood off  without fear of damaging your paint!
  * Agree with the previous comments on the chrome. A much more realistic appearance can be achieved on engines by painting some (or all, even) of the chrome parts with various metallic shades. Other than show cars, most 1:1 cars _ drag cars especially _ don't have engines that are all slathered in chrome. Another alternative is to use flat and semigloss clears to achieve varied levels of shine on plated parts. Chrome + flat clear = unpolished aluminum, while chrome + semigloss clear = polished aluminum.
   Your paint looks REALLY nice, and good on you for seeking input on how to improve your models! Keep up the good work and keep building your skills!  


Wow! Thank that's what I was looking for! All the super small details and technicalities! About the hood, I actually trimmed of the tab, just enough so it goes on and off freely. I left the underside unpainted in the front since the car is supposed to have a fiberglass front end, and fiberglass has that rough texture. Thank you for the advice!

#29 Speedfreak

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 11:04 PM

Anthony, nice build. With the tips you've been given here and the quality of your work as it exists, you are well on your way to doing some great work, so get busy!



#30 Dinky

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:23 PM

Nice, i love the Willys

#31 crazyrichard

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 10:01 PM

well first of all , great color , nice paint and it just looks like a well build model ..
i really like it !~!!

most things are said in the previous posts , since you asked for c&c ..
well for me what you could do to improve your result the next time is to start with sanding all the moldlines of the parts before building and painting ..
what i mean is there are still so many moldlines on parts where you could have sand them off , or used some bondo .
like the shifter , thats just not pretty directly out of the kit .. you could even use house hold stuff to upgrade , lets say the round top of a steel pin (how do you call those for sowing ?) as the shifter knob and ..
and what people already mentioned the revell lettering on the bottom , just sand stuff like that off :)

some of the things i noticed moldline wise just on these pics are > rollcage > driveshaft > rear suspension / chassis > shifter etc ..

so thats my friendly comment on a nice build , overall for me just get rid of more moldlines on parts and maybe try to add more small detail on some earea's ..

btw the pics are great nice and sharp and good feel of detail :)

Edited by crazyrichard, 05 October 2013 - 10:03 PM.


#32 Mrdarkmonkey96

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 09:25 AM

well first of all , great color , nice paint and it just looks like a well build model ..
i really like it !~!!

most things are said in the previous posts , since you asked for c&c ..
well for me what you could do to improve your result the next time is to start with sanding all the moldlines of the parts before building and painting ..
what i mean is there are still so many moldlines on parts where you could have sand them off , or used some bondo .
like the shifter , thats just not pretty directly out of the kit .. you could even use house hold stuff to upgrade , lets say the round top of a steel pin (how do you call those for sowing ?) as the shifter knob and ..
and what people already mentioned the revell lettering on the bottom , just sand stuff like that off :)

some of the things i noticed moldline wise just on these pics are > rollcage > driveshaft > rear suspension / chassis > shifter etc ..

so thats my friendly comment on a nice build , overall for me just get rid of more moldlines on parts and maybe try to add more small detail on some earea's ..

btw the pics are great nice and sharp and good feel of detail :)

Thanks! The pictures were actually taken with my samsung galaxy s3!!

#33 surfjunke

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 04:45 AM

Really nice clean build, Anthony!  You did very well.  

 

Just take care of those mold seams & injector pin marks on your next build.



#34 Mrdarkmonkey96

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 09:42 AM

Really nice clean build, Anthony!  You did very well.  
 
Just take care of those mold seams & injector pin marks on your next build.


Thanks! Ill make sure now that I know where they all are!