Posted 13 November 2007 - 01:53 PM
Posted 13 November 2007 - 02:09 PM
Posted 13 November 2007 - 04:43 PM
1. take your dremel or 1/8" or so drill bit and just grind down into the plastic in one spot to make a divot.
2. using a sharpie, put black ink down into that divot. apply and let dry for a minute a few times, maybe even,
with a fine point sharpie, make a "lagoon" sort of outline around the divot.
3. take a brush with some testors dullcote and working out from the divot that has been made black with sharpie, drag the brush with dullcoat on it outward from the divot. this should sort of smear the sharpie ink out of the divot, mixed with dullcoat. after doing this a couple times, take a larger flat brush and put a good amount of dullcoat on it and run it over it again. follow by drybrushing dullcoat and sharpie till it looks right.
the manipulation of the sharpie ink mixing with the dullcoat will make a pretty realistic knot hole. if it gets too messy just sand it down a bit and then do the sharpie/dullcoat thing again.
that brings me to how i simulate larger areas of wood and that is to build up some layers of different earth tones, brown, tan, even dark green, not being afraid of leaving brush marks, especially if they follow a lateral pattern. after that mess is dry i sand down through some layers while leaving other areas less sanded, then follow with the knotholes above, and finishing with an overall coat or two of dullcoat and then some dirt weathering.
but if youre doing fine work like real woodgrain in interiors my method might be too crude to get the result you need.
Posted 13 November 2007 - 05:49 PM
My buddy Matt tried it on his '37 Ford truck's bed, and I say he got pretty decent results for nearly no effort:
The marker was used on bare plastic, and he reapplied it to some random areas to deepen the color.
Posted 14 November 2007 - 09:45 AM
Posted 14 November 2007 - 10:29 AM
Posted 14 November 2007 - 03:52 PM
Posted 14 November 2007 - 04:08 PM
Use the steel wool along the legnth of the sheet , being fairly careful to maintain the flow of the "GRAIN" of the wood , gouge the plastic along its legnth . Remember , this is going to be the "woods grain" so what you are doing is putting tiny scratches in the plastic sheet .
Now the cool part , spray or air brush the sheet with a light tan or really light brown paint of your choosing , and let dry completely . When thoroughly dry make a wash of really dark brown and run it over the whole sheet , where it will settle into the scratches and produce a wood grain that is hard to beat . By manupilating the steel wool you can with practice make amazing knots and grain patterns .(burlwood ETC.)
One note , I will usually make my wash from a paint that will not react to the paint I used for my tan base color , ie I will use a water based acrylic over oil enamel or lacquer or vice-versa .
The sheet can then either be clear coated or cut up into strips to use as wood planks ( use the wash for the edges of your "planks" ) If using for a pick-up bed or the like , try polished brass rod or strips between the "planks" for a really cool custom look .
I've used this technique on some 37 Ford pick-ups I built a while back , and I can say it stands the test of time !
HOPE THIS HELPS..... Take care and see you around the clubhouse ,
Posted 14 November 2007 - 04:54 PM
Posted 15 November 2007 - 12:55 PM
Posted 15 November 2007 - 01:41 PM
Recently I started putting a couple coats of Tamiya clear with a bit of clear yellow in it over the Testors as a "varnsh" It also makes it easy to control how dark the wood looks.
It takes a bit of practice [what dosen't LOL] but I think it looks pretty good.
When I started woodgraining this wagon most people thought the wood was going to be too light.
Posted 15 November 2007 - 03:23 PM
Posted 17 November 2007 - 07:44 AM
Posted 18 November 2007 - 07:08 AM
Posted 18 November 2007 - 07:49 AM
Brush or spray the base color. Take a piece of plexiglass and set it on fire. This will generate a black, "greasy" smoke. Hold your work piece at a safe distance over the burning plexiglass and let the smoke blacken it. Then use a stiff brush to create the wood grain in the smoke deposits, and airbrush some clear coat to protect it when you're done. I have also seen people use an acetylene torch (using acetylene only) on 1:1 cars to create a burly wood pattern.
Posted 24 November 2007 - 02:01 AM
After several hours of letting the acrylic dry, I take actual MinWax stain for real wood, and apply it over the entire surface very lightly on the first coat.. I let this dry about 4 hours, and if it's not dark enough I give it another one. The solvents in the actual wood stain are cool enough they wont lift the enamel. Here's the result.:
Posted 25 May 2008 - 09:15 PM
Posted 06 June 2008 - 05:56 PM