Monogram Days of Thunder Lumina WIP
Posted 05 January 2014 - 10:58 AM
Posted 05 January 2014 - 06:55 PM
WE HAVE COLOR!
It actually looks a little washed out in that photo with my 100w work light shining on it, the actual color is better represented in this photo:
To the naked eye it is a super close match to the box art and has that hot orange look that I was really craving.
The Faskolor went on really well when mixed with Future to the consistency of skim milk and shot at 25 PSI, I'm very pleased considering it was my first attempt at airbrushing a body. The only drawback was that this is a really transparent orange so it took about 7-8 coats (with the last few being really thick) to get it looking decent. It went down really smooth but I did get some funk in the paint in several places... looks suspiciously like carpet fibers and dust, I blame the liberal use of the hair dryer (I cooked the paint between each coat) and my lax cleaning standards of the man cave (who wants to lug a vacuum upstairs all the time???). Of course after the fiasco that was the first paint job on this project my standards have come down quite a bit so we're going to just pretend that it's just track funk on a race car. I would try to get rid of it but with this paint being as transparent as it is and with it being a somewhat flexible paint (intended for RC bodies) I'm afraid of what the result of sanding would be.
My game plan is to do my detail painting on the body (bumper lettering, etc.) tomorrow night and then put a coat or twelve of Future over it before doing decals -- does this sound smart?
Edited by bigbluesd, 05 January 2014 - 06:56 PM.
Posted 06 January 2014 - 04:44 AM
I would give it plenty of drying time with so many coats of paint on the body. I don't use future as a clear..
Posted 06 January 2014 - 04:57 AM
What kind of clear would you recommend over acrylic/future?
Posted 06 January 2014 - 05:08 AM
I use testors wet look clear mostly now. I think you can use lacquer over acrylic but would have to check to be sure. I would be sure the paint gasses out. sometimes thick and multiple coats will wrinkle and leave finger prints when you begin to handle the painted parts...
Posted 06 January 2014 - 06:35 PM
Spent entirely too much time painting the lettering on the front bumper using some heavily thinned acrylic paint and a sharpened toothpick. Should have noted prior to doing this that the car on the box art and 90% of the Days of Thunder cars in Google image search don't have those letters painted. DOH! Oh well, mine does. This took a lot of patience and a steady hand, neither of which I have in abundance. Could be better but it could be worse too. Currently debating whether I want to spend the money and buy some contingency decals for this, a few came with the set but they are kind of sparse.
Edited by bigbluesd, 06 January 2014 - 06:38 PM.
Posted 13 January 2014 - 06:58 PM
Made a little bit of progress, I have been using this one partially as a test bed for learning new techniques because it's not a model I am overly excited about. Due to this I have spurts of "I'm over this" followed by "holy cow that worked really well, I'm excited again".
The clear parts of this kit were scratched up in the box so I sanded them down with some 4000 and then 12000 (I don't have anything in between, waiting for some polishing cloths to come from Hong Kong in the mail) and dipped them in Future. Not perfect but a heck of a lot better.
I put a coat of Future over the paint and it glossed a little bit... I was rushed though and didn't do any homework on the best way to apply Future by the airbrush. The end result was that I did one heavy application instead of mist coats, etc. There were a couple of spots where it is glossier than others but I figure I can put another coat on after decals and it will solve that issue. A couple of areas where it pooled as well but nothing too terrible. I'm overall satisfied.
I also did my first attempt at using Allclad and it worked out really well. I used it on the exhaust pipes as well as the headers and airbrushed it over a coat of Testor's gloss black. I'm very pleased with the results. On a side note, I FOUND MY MISSING HEADER! Incredibly grateful for that because I had a hard time finding solder that was the right size. Everything was either 0.6mm or 1.0mm. The headers are about 0.8mm. I did find a spare two feet of 10 gauge Romex that I had left over and the conductors were just the right size, but quickly realized copper is just too #$&^ hard to bend without destroying the surface with my pliers.
The engine is put together, I will say that this is the best motor I've done yet thanks to using the airbrush as well as the Alclad headers. I also did a black wash using thinned acrylic black, I am having a problem with the washes... when I go to wipe or blot off the excess everything tends to come with it and I'm left with very little visible shadow.
I was tempted to entertain the notion to try heat staining the pipes but I am so pleased with the outcome that I'm afraid to ruin this one. I'll try it on my next project.
One thing that really bugs me about kits is that the wheels are always straight as an arrow, so whenever possible I always attempt to turn the front wheels a little bit. I accomplished this with my new razor saw and some cement. (Wheels not attached, just put in place to check alignment in the second photo.
I figure a bonus for this is that the ride height will be lowered slightly in the front from the material removed by cutting and sanding flush.
A few more brush painted details on some parts and then it's onward to assembly and decals. I may finish this within the month!
Edited by bigbluesd, 13 January 2014 - 07:06 PM.
Posted 13 January 2014 - 07:59 PM
In Googling this stuff I did find somebody making reference to using the Future to thin the Faskolor, any thoughts on that?
Definitely, I use Future to mix most of the acrylics I spray through my airbrush. I typically cut it 50 to 75% with the Future and finish out the brew with Rubbing Alcohol or Acrylic Airbrush reducer (Createx). I have had great results but it takes a lot of coats to build up a good color finish. I typically spray a good even coat then dry it with the hair dryer, then repeat until I am happy with the finish. You will definitely want to seal the finished paint after drying it a day or so with several coats of Future or you could build up a couple "light" coats of Testors Lacquers. Good fun stuff, that car should really pop when you are finished!
Edited by Kmidd65, 13 January 2014 - 08:03 PM.
Posted 14 January 2014 - 05:43 AM
You will definitely want to seal the finished paint after drying it a day or so with several coats of Future
For your clear coats with Future, do you mist it on or spray several wet coats?
Posted 14 January 2014 - 02:39 PM
When I airbrush Future, I try to apply my first two coats in a nice mist covering. In effect, I am sneaking up on it and providing a good base for the final wet coats. You need to be careful as the stuff will run quickly! I use a dual action Air Brush so that is minimized some. I do not dry Future coats with the hair dryer as that causes a grainy finish. I usually wait a day or two between coats. The third and fourth coats I lay on wet. After another couple days of drying, I will rub out the Future finish with Meguiers #7 or fine polishing compounds, if needed.
In my previous post, the #31 Lumina and the #28 Texaco both had Future finishes to seal the decals. The #28 was brush coated and polished. The Lumina was the better effort (airbrushed). Not certain if you ever saw the write up about applying Future to models? Check out the site at the link, it is full of great information. Hope this is helpful!
Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:15 PM
Decals on the body... I was going to coat them in Future but there is one that lays partially over a window so my options were to either Future everything BUT that decal (making it the only one that sticks out) or go ahead with the installation of windows and not Future it again. Since I want this thing off my bench I elected to not Future it again. The window decal (or windows for that matter) hasn't been installed yet, that's part of tomorrow's work list.
Decals went on pretty well except that the adhesive gobbed up into tiny balls when I slid them off the paper so there are hundreds of little bumps underneath the decals. It's only really noticeable on the roof though. I guess if that's my only problem with a 20+ year old decal sheet I shouldn't complain.
Edited by bigbluesd, 17 January 2014 - 08:16 PM.
Posted 17 January 2014 - 09:16 PM
The decals and paint look really good. Engine looks great to. IT might be me but it is almost impossible to get a model built without a few flaws and the builder is the one who notices them. Your doing a really nice job..
Posted 18 January 2014 - 05:33 AM
Thanks, that is good to hear. I do have a tendency to be hypercritical of my own stuff so it's good to know that somebody else feels that way as well. Looking at the Under Glass section will ruin your perception of your own work, everything there looks absolutely perfect!
Posted 18 January 2014 - 07:59 PM
Looking very good! Those colors really pop. I was afraid about those decals, they look great. I really like following this build, thanks for sharing it with us!
Posted 19 January 2014 - 07:29 PM
DONE! Under glass thread here: http://www.modelcars...showtopic=84445
More issues during assembly... when I put the body on the tubes running exhaust out the windows got in the way of the windows themselves and several pieces got forcibly removed in the process. Part of the reason was that the body needed to be pushed forwards a hair but by the time I realized it I had already superglued it into place. Used Testor's clear parts cement for gauge glass and the big one never unfogged, maybe it just needs time. And got to the last step of the instruction sheet and realized i had a distributor hanging out on the bench that was never referenced in the instructions. Too late to put it in. Bah. Anyways, good enough to go on the second shelf of the scale model china cabinet, it's nice and dark down there!
Edited by bigbluesd, 19 January 2014 - 07:32 PM.