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Paint Strippers - What to Use?

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#421 cswilliams1963

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Posted 17 September 2014 - 06:41 PM

Brake Fluid.  I put the body and hood from a build that was done years ago in a gallon zip-lock bag with a quart of fluid and shook it up real good and within 30 minutes parts of the paint were gone all the way down to the original finish



#422 Snake45

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 05:02 AM

I haven't read all 22 pages but here's what I use:

 

1. 91% rubbing alcohol. Fabulous for many old AMT and Pactra lacquers, for SOME Tamiya paints (not all), many Krylon spraybomb paints, and for most of the new Testor Model Master lacquers including the one-coat clear. Put a little on a rag and try it on the paint to be stripped. If ANY of it comes off, it should ALL come off with a 24 hour (or less) bath. If none comes off, time to move up.

 

2. Easy Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner. Great for Testor and Pactra enamels, old and new, also works on some other Tamiya paints. What I like about it is the speed--no 24 hour soak involved. Spray on, let sit 15-20 minutes, attack with an old toothbrush under warm running water. Repeat as necessary. It usually takes three or four applications to get all the paint but I've stripped multi-coat enamel paint jobs this way in one to two hours. If the first application doesn't take ANY paint off after 15-20 minutes, give up and try something else. If the first ap takes ANY paint off, keep at it, it will eventually get it ALL.  BTW, I've seen the AMT lacquers shrug off Easy Off but yield immediately to rubbing alcohol.

 

3. Brake fluid. Only had to use this once, on a body that was apparently painted with Pontiac Engine Blue Paint. The above made no dent in it, but a weeklong soak in brake fluid eventually got it all. I really should use it more, I guess, but I'm comfortable with the other two methods.

 

I assume that somewhere in these 22 pages, someone has posted the standard warnings about dealing with Easy Off or anything else with lye in it. Nasty stuff that can really mess you up if you don't respect it, which I do.



#423 1hobby1

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 07:04 AM

So I have had a hood sitting in purple power for about 2 days and the paint has not stripped yet. Usually by now I see some paint coming off but it almost looks untouched. I used dupli color primer and paint 2 coats each.

Anyone else have this problem? Might have to give the brake fluid a try this round.

#424 Bullitt

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:33 AM

I have a small metal  model of the Old Navy Truck and I would like to strip it & used is as a test bed for the weathering process. Any ideas as to what I could use for the paint removal, it almost looks like a laquer based paint.

 

Thanks



#425 fun9c1

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 08:12 AM

Figures, I had over a gallon of used brake fluid sitting in my garage for a year or more. I just took it to the dump a couple weeks ago and now I discover this and I want it back! lol



#426 Mr Stock

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 06:35 AM

In the Uk we cannot get Purple power or the like, and to be honest Ive never had good results from either Mr muscle oven cleaner or brake fluid.

Ive finally found something that will work (If you are in the UK of course), Screwfix sell a product called De-solv-it Graffiti remover, it comes in a 1 litre can and is about £11, it looks very much like the old Nitromors Gel paint stripper but its safe for use on plastics.

Ive just managed to remove paint from a 50 year old AMT Buick riviera with this stuff that nothing else would touch, it sometimes takes a few attempts but it works and it doesnt harm the styrene.



#427 Roadrunner

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 12:43 PM

2. Easy Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner. Great for Testor and Pactra enamels, old and new, also works on some other Tamiya paints. What I like about it is the speed--no 24 hour soak involved. Spray on, let sit 15-20 minutes, attack with an old toothbrush under warm running water. Repeat as necessary.

 

Exactly what I'm doing right now (sort of), except that I'm using a no name generic oven cleaner from the dollar store. Roughly 75% of the chrome is already gone after this first 15 minute soak.



#428 fun9c1

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 08:07 AM

Anybody ever tried Purple Power on tires? I'd like to remove a botched white letter job (testors) but want to make sure it won't wreck the tires. I found that it does eat through ziploc (different brand but like ziploc) bags after a day or two. These tires are from the Revell/Monogram '55 Chevy Street Machine.

 

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#429 StevenGuthmiller

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 02:10 PM

24 hours in Super Clean.  :)                      Steve

 

DSCN3826_zps755c7c20.jpgDSCN3829_zps2e33dce9.jpg



#430 Captain Obvious

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Posted 18 February 2015 - 04:23 AM

Does anyone know what type of paint the ColorPlace spray paint from Walmart is?  I use it frequently for smaller parts, but recently used it on a body, with unfavorable results.  It didn't seem like the 91% alcohol I usually use did much good on it...any suggestions?



#431 Mike_G

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Posted 18 February 2015 - 06:38 AM

Does anyone know what type of paint the ColorPlace spray paint from Walmart is?  I use it frequently for smaller parts, but recently used it on a body, with unfavorable results.  It didn't seem like the 91% alcohol I usually use did much good on it...any suggestions?

 

It's enamel- Ez-off oven cleaner should take it off. Put the part in a ziploc bag and spray the oven cleaner in the bag and seal it up. The vapors are as effective as the actual liquid.



#432 Captain Obvious

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Posted 18 February 2015 - 06:41 AM

I will definitely give that a shot when I get home...thanks much!



#433 StevenGuthmiller

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Posted 18 February 2015 - 11:42 AM

Enamels are generally easy to remove compared to lacquers. Any number of techniques should work. You could try soaking in Super Clean too.                      Steve



#434 jacoballardtattoo

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 01:09 PM

I did not know simple green was good for this. I have never used simple green in this manner but feel that it would be the best option. Simple green is non toxic and as safe as a chemical can be health wise. It has been used in many medical facilities for years due to how safe it is. I use it regularly as a cleaning agent for all surfaces in my tattoo studio and while working as a mechanic for over ten years found it was great for wound care after a trip to the urgent care after a screwdriver accident, it sucked always be safe in anything you do. It was actually the physician who told me that most mechanic bays have simple green if you have a minor cut soak it in the simple green for a few minutes to help prevent infection.
(Please note though with this I am not a doctor, I do not use simple green on the tattoos I do, and this was said to me by only one physician about 13 years ago.)

#435 jacoballardtattoo

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:49 PM

I used simple green for the first time as a paint stripper tonight and I gotta say I'm SOLD! I have used simple green fort years now in the garage, tattoo studio, even in medical offices I have worked in it's non toxic has no crazy fumes and gets the job done. I feel it's the safest striper you can use as far as health goes, I have even used it as a wound cleaner (only minor cuts and only in a pinch, it was a trick I learned in Afghanistan from the PA, and mind you I am not a doctor so I am not recommending it for others in a medical form)