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Paint Strippers - What to Use?

What is it?

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#41 935k3

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 03:57 PM

Purple Power works good on most paints except I got quicker better results on Tamiya and Duplicolor laquers with 91% Alcohol., it tuened Duplicolor clear laquer to goo in 20 min. I have even stripped Krylon with it. ScaleCaot is getting very expensive(around $12 bucks a pint).

#42 samdiego

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 04:06 PM

A discovery I made recently is the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. I was stripping a Cobra gone bad (I knew there wasn't enough paint in that can). After the overnight soak in CSC, I was reaching for a toothbrush when I saw this thing on the sink and grabbed it instead. Everything came off with a gentle pass or two and you can force into crevices and around countours. It feels like maybe 2,000 grit so don't hit the chrome or windows with it.

#43 Semi Trailer Mechanic

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 09:24 AM

What's goin' on...

I haven't read all the replies from the others just yet so if this is already covered pardon the redundancey. Any high concentrated degreaser such as Castrol Super Clean will work and that's found at major auto parts stores. Right now in the bucket I'm using a product called Manny Rose equivallant to CSC obtained thru industrial suppliers. That stuff is very potent and effective!!!

Good Luck!

#44 Spike

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 06:01 PM

I've used DOT-3 with great success. At wally world you can get their super-tech brand pretty cheap and it works very well. It doesn't give off too strong of a smell but I would still recommend using in a ventilated area. Also if you go the brake fluid route, wear plastic gloves, or else it will dry your skin out something fierce.


i use brake fluid with good success also

#45 gasman

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 06:09 AM

so i've got a few older builds I would like to redo. I used Tamiya (Primer and Color) paint on them. but 91% isopropal alchohol won't touch it. it won't remove any of it. anyone know of anything stronger that I can use that might strip this paint.

#46 Johnnycrash

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 06:40 AM

Easy Off oven cleaner. Safe for all plastics, and will not fog clear parts. Use the pump bottle, coat well, and let sit for 30 minutes (in a well ventilated area like a bathroom with a exhaust fan). Use an old toothbrush (or a roommate's you don't like) and rinse and scrub the model. You may need to repeat to get all the nooks and crannies.

#47 MrObsessive

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 06:58 AM

I've found ELO (Easy Lift Off) to be great for stripping paint. Most good hobby shops should have it.

It smells (and feels) like brake fluid-------but brake fluid may be harsh on styrene (and deadly to resin!) so it's got to be something else. I used it when I had to repaint the Ford I'm working on.........only drawback though, is if you've got any putty work, kiss it goodbye as it'll break that right up! :o

Brush it on, let it sit for a couple hours, and the paint'll start to lift with ease!

HTH! :rolleyes:


#48 Brendan

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 07:24 AM

I use a product called Scalecoat II. It's a really good paint stripper especially for Tamiya. It was originally made for Acrylics, but it strips lacquer based paints just as well. It's non-toxic and also can be reused several times. Also it can be flushed down the toilet when you're done. One bottle usually lasts me about 10 to 13 stripping jobs. Usually works in about 15-30 minutes and it just peels it off like butter. Just use a toothbrush to get all the tight areas.

#49 evilone

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 11:07 AM

castrol super clean sidewalk cleaner
put it into a rubbermade food holder that is bigenough to hole the project
let it sit for about 1 hour-24 hours
and bam it will peel off or you can use a tooth brush to take it off

#50 sdrodder

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 11:25 AM

what evil said. Castrol super clean is great stuff. Painted a 57 ford one year ago. Didnt like it so i started striping it couple weeks ago. Put the doors and hood in and it lifted off easyly. Even takes of old bondo and putty

#51 Jantrix

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 11:48 AM

A note on the Super Clean/ Purple Power prodcucts. It is lye based, avoid contact with skin and eye protection a must. Works great on enamels. For lacquers, sand through to the primer in a few spots, to let the chemical attack the primer. The lacquer will just slough off after the primer is disolved. Unless the purple stuff is BRAND new, it seems to have trouble with lacquer paints.

#52 evilone

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 08:53 AM

A note on the Super Clean/ Purple Power prodcucts. It is lye based, avoid contact with skin and eye protection a must. Works great on enamels. For lacquers, sand through to the primer in a few spots, to let the chemical attack the primer. The lacquer will just slough off after the primer is disolved. Unless the purple stuff is BRAND new, it seems to have trouble with lacquer paints.


true that i got ulsers on my hands because i toutched that stuff when it was new
ulsers on the hands dont feel to good trust me

#53 sdrodder

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 10:12 AM

oh forgot to mention that part too. Dont get it in your eyes or on your hands. Last time i got it on my hands my skin started to dry out slighly. :D Was itchy too so wear gloves.

#54 JamesW

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Posted 21 September 2008 - 11:36 AM

Is this a good idea, and how effective is it. I'm stripping a diecast to repaint it.

#55 Gregg

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Posted 21 September 2008 - 12:08 PM

For diecasts, I used hardware store paint strippers

#56 Eshaver

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Posted 21 September 2008 - 12:12 PM

James, Ive never had a problem on metals. You have to watch some of the Revell plastics from the past couple of years as Brake fluid will make the plastic VERY brittle. In fact Jimmy Flintstones Resin is a Watch out item too. I mad e the mistake of painting under BAD conditions and one of his bodies was in the way. Oh I repaired the damage of course, in fact its not even noticeable now. Uh , as for the Brake fluid, use the really cheap fluid . Ive found the NAME BRAND stuff isn't as effective . Hey hows the new address working? Ed Shaver

#57 JamesW

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 03:17 AM

James, Ive never had a problem on metals. You have to watch some of the Revell plastics from the past couple of years as Brake fluid will make the plastic VERY brittle. In fact Jimmy Flintstones Resin is a Watch out item too. I mad e the mistake of painting under BAD conditions and one of his bodies was in the way. Oh I repaired the damage of course, in fact its not even noticeable now. Uh , as for the Brake fluid, use the really cheap fluid . Ive found the NAME BRAND stuff isn't as effective . Hey hows the new address working? Ed Shaver

I had some Gumout brake fluid on hand (didn't want to spend money if I didn't have to), worked GREAT. As far as the address, not moving til this friday, thanks for asking.

#58 MikeMc

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 06:42 AM

Use DOT3 fluid NOT DOT4 or DOT5

#59 FUSIONBOY

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 03:43 PM

easy off oven cleaner ( or the cheap$ store ) works good on die-cast , but cars from the same manufacturer can react differently to the process.
like Gregg typed ,store brand paint strippers work the best. I used the spay on aircraft stripper from wally, worked almost instantly, did learn not to scub it off while not wearing a shirt. DUHH!. on my part , but it was hot that day. I also have one of the palstic totes , next size up from a shoe box to keep the body in while spaying on the stripper, helps keep the mess to a minimum.

#60 FujimiLover

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 12:51 PM

Hello. Many of you have been following my Koenig Specials Competition build and know how unhappy I am with the paint's finish.
Posted Image
I've got most of the bad spots sanded down, but it needs lot's more work. I'd much rather strip off the paint and start from bare white plastic.
What's the best stuff to use that will strip the paint off clean, but wont' harm the plastic at all? I'm very close to purchasing another kit just for a fresh body.