With all due respect to your excellent building skills and neatness, here are some constructive tips to improve this and your next Cobra(s).
There is a ton of picture reference on these cars and their small block engines and it's easy to find. The Webers in particular are a focal point and getting them right makes the model. Here's just one view of a Comp car and how the Webs are plumbed and linked:
The fuel lines terminate in banjo fittings and come from the fuel block (which you represent but note the 1:1 is actually an aluminum manifold casting, part of the radiator hose pipes. ). Note the thickness of the fuel lines and the plug wire. The plug wires are only 7mm in 1:1. Note the throttle linkage and bell crank on the footbox. From there to one set of butterflies and from that to a central bellcrank in the center of the intake, connecting the other three. Views are readily available.
You have some 'mystery wires' twisted together going from somewhere to nowhere. Cobras are simple. Find reference to the coil, fuel pump (on the block) and the puke tank on the firewall with hoses to the valve covers. They are all wired and plumbed simply so they are easy for you to duplicate. The coolant overflow tank also needs improvement and it's not hard. The upper rad hose is not all rubber-it's cast aluminum pipe with rubber connectors.
BMF would make better hose clamps and might be easier than twisting your wire. And no copper plumbing of any type was used on these cars.
You could also make real aluminum (instead of paint) inner fenders using .005" baking pans from the supermarket. Make a tape or paper template and glue in place on the panels. Use it for the throttle bellcranks too. Even the trunk would benefit from that.
There are other accuracy issues with these kits, like the exhausts and windshield frame and glass to name two. In general, styrene models are too thick in many places compared to 1:1. A builder of your skill can really nail these cars given the right reference.
Hope that helps.