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My Metal Mistress: Finished !

Its late & Im tired….

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#21 FASTBACK340

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 03:22 PM

I'm going up to the hobby room in a few minutes and I'll snap pictures. That engine OMG! TWO PIECE vacuum diaphragms for each carb…X3. The engine BLOCK is FOUR pieces. Two piece alternator (!) etc…. 

 

Nuts!  :wacko:


Edited by FASTBACK340, 04 February 2014 - 04:03 PM.


#22 FASTBACK340

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 04:34 PM

OK, here's some shots of the Ross Gibson resin engine kit. Yes, kit. Over 40 pieces including highly detailed bits that will a Mopar geek smile.

 
Here I had already assembled the upper & lower block halves. The front & back block details are a separate piece….
 
Here's those carbs….
 
The 727 Torqueflite is nicely done, as are the stock valve covers. Everything in this picture will be in the parts pile.
 
These will be Metalized Aluminum to replicate the manifold & aluminum Edlebrock heads on my car
 
Now, THIS is a detail a true Mopar guy loves to see. Included is both the early & late water pumps with the reversed outlets!
 
Photo-etched fan and wire looms are included, along with the corresponding Dodge six-pack / Plymouth 6Bbl. designations.

 

 

This is NOT for the beginner. The preparation of the resin parts is time consuming. Getting the block halves flush was a chore… but it will be spectacular when done.

 

 

My modeling is done for the day. Tomorrow we carry on with some fitment issues, and then we hit the `70 build….

 

 

 



#23 Belugawrx

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:52 AM

Good to see you jumping right back on this horse!!

Can't wait to see updates

Good Luck brother :D



#24 Skypower

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 05:47 PM

I haven't been brave enough to assemble my Ross Gibson ProMod Hemi yet. I will follow this closely because the motor you are using is the one I want to use when I build my 70 Cuda as an AAR Cuda.

Looking good so far John.

Edited by Skypower, 05 February 2014 - 05:49 PM.


#25 FASTBACK340

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 04:47 PM

I hate when I can't devote the amount of time I want to at the bench….  :mellow:

 

 

In my previous update I mentioned the Ross Gibson resin engine being a bear to assemble. I'm going to try and show where and how to deal with the fitment of raw resin pieces. By no means is this the final word, just what works for me. As always, if someone can amend my procedure, please do so.

 

 

When looking at the mating surface of raw cast resin it looks rounded. That's where you have to carefully level the surface so it mates smoothly and tightly without removing too much material. I start by drawing with a Sharpie on the surface I want to sand. A cross-hatch pattern gives good reference.

 

I usually give the part one or two swipes to see how aggressive the sandpaper is removing material and how fast the piece will level out. Here you can see the marker reference being sanded off showing me where to apply pressure.

 
I lay a piece of fresh medium grit paper (approx. 220) and apply light pressure to where it needs to have material removed. BTW: Your not cheese-grating bondo here…. GO EASY AND S-L-O-W!
 
Eventually, you'll have that nice, smooth surface. You can see the marker is gone and the edges are nice and crisp. Slow, methodical work pays off. Here you can see the backside of the timing chain cover, nice and flush.
 
 
It's almost 10:00 pm and I chose to post this how-to instead of getting involved at the bench this late at night. I'm off this weekend so I'll probably get some seat time. I have too much just sitting right now….. :unsure:

 


Edited by FASTBACK340, 06 February 2014 - 04:52 PM.


#26 Skypower

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 05:58 PM

Thank you John, that's one of the things I have been scared of messing up. I don't want to ruin a $30 motor and I haven't had any experience with resin stuff yet.

#27 jaydar

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 04:33 AM

That is a great technique tip. Although I have worked with resin pieces for years as a plane builder, i never marked the piece, just eye balled it.
Thanks,
Joe.

#28 FASTBACK340

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 05:41 PM

OK, quick update:

 

When it comes to assembling anything, measure, align, inspect, and repeat BEFORE you super-glue it together. Yours truly just realized he roached the first block. Fortunately I had a second 340 6Bbl. kit to rob the block from, but now I skipped an important step after assembly when it comes to resin: cleaning the mold release off the pieces BEFORE applying primer/paint. My engine is going for a swim in Lake Castrol tonight.

 

Clean your resin in Westleys Bleach White. The resin was greasier than a Pork chop, beautifully detailed…. but loads of contamination. My bad… still doing stupid things. Feel like I never took a hiatus!  :lol: 



#29 Mopar - D

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 05:59 AM

John To help from losing any of the small parts I down the drain I use a zip lock baggy with Westlys bleach and the parts I also use the bag to rinse off the Westleys bleach. Yea I learned the hard way keep up the the super detailing on your build.

#30 1930fordpickup

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 06:04 AM

Yes John we are all human . 

That is a good looking engine. 



#31 Skypower

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 06:49 AM

More good info, Thanks John I would not have known that.



#32 FASTBACK340

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 06:54 AM

G`morning all. Been busy wasting the morning…. now it's time to go to work. As much as I'd love to watch the young Ladies ice skating on the Olypmics, I have a small block Mopar to address. I also have to spot-prime the chassis splice and post the final amendment to the splice strengthening. I removed all the manufacturer logo's and have modified the rear leaf springs & shackles. Some simple detail painting alone will make this pop nicely. I remember building the `69 version when it first came out and I still love it today.

 

I'll be back later……. * 



#33 FASTBACK340

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 10:15 AM

I need a new chair at my bench. My upper back is hurting…..  <_<

 

 

I could have stuffed 2 pieces of plastic under the spring perches, but I decided it was just as easy to make shackles. I took a length of 3/32" brass strip & folded it over itself twice and drilled 2 sets of #78 holes. 

 

 

After trimming and filing I temporarily pinned it all together. Once I make a set of longer shocks from brass tube that will support the weight as these are thin…. but look pretty darn good.

 
 
And as a teaser-shot, we painted the engine. Once it's dry we can start the assembly. I fab'ed up a set of sheet metal valve covers and I am making the breathers next.

 

I might start painting some suspension/steering bits and let things dry and get back on the Pink `70.
 
We're moving forward!  B) 

 



#34 FASTBACK340

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 10:16 AM

** SORRY ** Double-post.

Edited by FASTBACK340, 08 February 2014 - 10:17 AM.


#35 FASTBACK340

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 06:41 PM

OK, here's that final tip on strengthening butt-joint panels. This trick I learned from the late Tony Delvecchio, president of the LIARS club until his passing. He was an incredible customizer that had an eye for what would work, and what wouldn't. This is how he held some of them together.

 

 

Materials needed are 3/4 ounce fiberglass mat from the R/C dept. of a well stocked hobby store. A straight edge, a hard surface to cut on, scissors, toothpicks or a small steel paddle, Xacto w/ a fresh blade, and gap filling super glue.

 

Cut it to a smaller size on a hard surface. The closer to the final size the better. If you trim it with scissors it will shred a bit and get sloppy. 

 

Once it's laid over the area that needs to be reinforced, you soak it with super glue.

 

Smooth it out and work the glue into the matting. It will soak up the glue on it's own. Just push it down tight against the surface your strengthening. When it dries it is very stiff. It can be cut and sanded after it cures, but trimming now makes your life easier later.

 

Now you have a fiberglass reinforced patch overlapping the two pieces. A piece of plastic was used also, but due to the shape the matting conforms better, creating a stronger patch. Plus it's very thin and won't interfere with other components. This works for top chops, frame sectioning, altering wheelbases. Anywhere you need to add strength to an assemble that may flex and crack.

 

Great tip Tony. Thank you.



#36 FASTBACK340

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 06:57 PM

OK…. while I did spend some time at the bench this afternoon, it was a relaxed day as Amy went shopping and the dog decided to sleep instead of harassing me, that lovable mutt. Although I realized I have to invest in a new chair, I had fun. Aside from doing the fiberglassing, I also installed the cable brackets for the emergency brake cables and the rear brake line bracket, which went in after these pictures were uploaded. I also removed the cast-in gas tank straps and I made my own J hook brackets  for the upcoming straps w/J hooks.

 

Here I made the brackets by drilling two #70 holes in some thin brass strip and bending them 90 degrees.

 

I then cut slots in the frame from the inside with a saw.

 

Giving me nice, clean slots through the floorpan.

 

Then I dropped the strip through the slots

 

In the back I folded a piece of wider brass strip and made the slotted tip for the J hooks to grab,

 

Separated the two pieces and dropped them through the floorpan.

 
I'll make the wraps from thin stainless steel shim stock I have, the J hooks from wire.
 
Simple mounts that need to be sturdy. I hate having thin pieces snap off after painting forcing either a re-paint or repair. These brass pieces are super glued in nice & solidly.

 

 



#37 FASTBACK340

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 02:54 PM

OK, today was spent fussing with little things, painting, and some fabricating. I installed the last bracket for the brake hose and added the side pieces for the tank support mounts. I still have to install the sump for the fuel tank (I keep forgetting!) and I have to make the sub-frame connectors and driveshaft loop.

 

Here's todays results. I might go assemble and wire the engine later. Watching the Olympics with the Mrs. right now….

I have to find a small MILODON decal for the oil pan. The Lakewood scatter shield is a wheel back sanded and opened up for the clutch fork.
The actual valve covers are welded aluminum sheet metal powder coated Alien Silver. I'll use Testor's German Silver on these scratch-built pieces. The holes are for the allen bolts on the 1:1. The aluminum radiator is buffed aluminum metalizer.
Here you can see the mounting tabs for the e-brake cables on the frame railthe hydraulic hose mount for the rear axle.
And here's a shot of the reinforced tank mount. A strap wraps around from up front and get's anchored to these plates with J hooks. This isn't hard, it's just tedious. A good supply of material is key.

 

 

We might have more later, but that chair at my bench has to go….this week. Maybe tomorrow. I'll put it out in the trash TONIGHT…..  :angry: 



#38 Mopar - D

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 03:30 PM

John nice progress I really like the level of detail your going to with this and thanks for sharing the fiberglass technique for reinforcements. I going to have to pick up some as I can see how this will work on some of my upcoming projects.

#39 hgbben

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 03:38 PM

Looks amazing John



#40 FASTBACK340

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 06:14 PM

Thanks guys, I have more. Last two things for tonight are going to be the sub-frame connectors and the MSD distributor.

 

The sub-frame connectors are just a pair of steel tubes connecting the rear uni-body sub-frame which holds the rear axle and suspension with the front sub-frame  that holds then other end of business. Even stock, these old Mopars handle terribly. Add horsepower and hard launches and one day your doors won't open and the back glass *might* pop out….due to chassis flex. When I welded in mine just pulling off the lift and making a u turn in the street I felt a difference. I have the Competition Engineering units that drop down as opposed to the Mopar Performance pieces that are straight. And would have been easier to make.

 

These are eye-ball bent and cut to fit using some 1/8" brass square tube.

 

 

The distributor is nothing more than some Radio Shack wire wrap, aluminum tube, and plastic rod.

 
I filed 9 notches in the edge of the tubing
 
Then I routed the wires into the tube with the plastic rod stuffed down the center. A drop of super-glue holds it together
 
Now the wires are routed to the notches. I'll find a small nail to use the head as the wire retainer on my MSD unit. I'll paint the upper half of the aluminum red to resemble the cap.
 
That's it for tonight gang. G'nite!