Jump to content


Beginning to plan


  • You cannot reply to this topic
10 replies to this topic

#1 Mayhem

Mayhem

    MCM Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts
  • Location:Washington, Illinois
  • Full Name:Jeff Puckett

Posted 24 February 2014 - 08:34 PM

Ok, so I want to make a garage diorama (original idea, I know. lol) and I am wanting to get some plans on paper. What I have so far is just what is in my head. I am looking for suggestions, ideas, critisim, guidance, or maybe even someone that will build it and let me claim it, :lol: . J/K.

So this is what I am wanting to build, a 2 bay, 2 story shop. I am thinking that with it being 2 story I should make the walls out of plywood then attach foam board to the wood so I can create a textured block wall. I am thinking a wood base with plaster as the floor (to simulate cement). I have read other posts and know that basswood is best for making joists, studs, and what-not so I am ok there. My direct questions are:

 

1. So as to not make my exterior load bearing walls too thick, what size plywood should I use?

 

2. I know that in 1/25 scale, 10 feet in life is equal to 5 inches in scale. So how tall should should a shop be to have an office on the 2nd floor? All the shops around me are single story and I think I am over thinking this so I have totally confused myself. :wacko:

 

3. What is best to use for windows? I was thinking about using thin real glass but am concerned with weight on the walls.

 

4. The big one now. I have seen dio's on here and the net that have working lights. Where do you get them? Can I use flashlight bulbs? What size wire and what power source do I use?

 

I have more questions but I will save them for later.



#2 Baugher Garage

Baugher Garage

    MCM Avid Poster

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 410 posts
  • Location:Roeland Park, KS
  • Full Name:Mike Baugher

Posted 25 February 2014 - 09:25 AM

Sounds like a fun project! I don't have much insight for you but love diorama, and am looking forward to your progress.  One option that comes to mind for window glass is the clear plastic used on most retail store product packaging/blister packs. Seems to be stiff enough and the right thickness for glass at scale. Someone else mentioned in another post to use glass from microscope slides as they're pretty thin. 

 

Have fun!



#3 gasser59

gasser59

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,712 posts
  • Location:NW Phoenix
  • Full Name:Brad Norgaard

Posted 25 February 2014 - 10:37 AM

My diorama is over 20 years old but still looks appropriate if not a little dusty. I used 'Grain of wheat' or even 'Grain of rice' bulbs and even used one for my working trouble light on the floor.

 

Here's a link to my PhotoBucket page:

 

http://s437.photobuc...x?sort=3&page=1

 

Maybe this will help.


Edited by gasser59, 25 February 2014 - 10:38 AM.


#4 Johnny K

Johnny K

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 198 posts
  • Location:Chicagoland Area
  • Full Name:Johnny Knight

Posted 25 February 2014 - 11:21 AM

 

1. So as to not make my exterior load bearing walls too thick, what size plywood should I use?

 

2. I know that in 1/25 scale, 10 feet in life is equal to 5 inches in scale. So how tall should should a shop be to have an office on the 2nd floor? All the shops around me are single story and I think I am over thinking this so I have totally confused myself. :wacko:

 

 

Not that it really matters, but 10' reduces to 5" in 1:24 scale.

 

1/4" plywood is slightly less (by about 1/32") in actual size, so this would equate to an approximate 6" wall thickness; however, if you apply sheathing, that will increase scale thickness, significantly for foamboard.  Of course, that's o.k. if you want thicker walls. 

I personally think 10' of height per floor is good, but there's a lot of leeway to be had with ceiling heights, so is really a matter of personal choice.

 

One project I tried used Basswood (and some Balsa) for framing, basically as a real garage would be framed - studs, joists, rafters, etc. - and used the same materials, wider and thinner, for exterior siding.  The interior was left open, studs visible.  It seems you may be after a more finished interior look, though.

 

Sounds like a great project.  Good luck.



#5 Mayhem

Mayhem

    MCM Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts
  • Location:Washington, Illinois
  • Full Name:Jeff Puckett

Posted 25 February 2014 - 01:35 PM

So I gues I didn't know that 10' = 5" in 1/25th lol.

 

Gasser, your dio is like what I am wanting to do. Very detailed. I like it a lot! Not sure what "grain of wheat and rice bulbs" are, research time. lol.

 

Johnny, Thank you for the insight and yes, I am wanting to do cinder block walls. I played around with some foam board and saw from somewhere (cant recall if a thread here or a video) if you take the paper backing off, you can scribe in bricks or blocks. Looks good, I think.

 

Thank you for the replies.



#6 misterNNL

misterNNL

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 187 posts
  • Location:Jackson Center, OH
  • Full Name:Tom Woodruff

Posted 25 February 2014 - 02:41 PM

Having built a couple of structures from plywood I suggest using that for strength.Be very sure that the pieces you select are not warped to start with.I suggest 1/4" plywood for exterior walls.I but craft grade plywood from a source such as Hobby Lobby sonce it has no knots and is smooth on both sides.Also be sure to double check all of your walls sure they are the same size before securing them togeather.By that I mean be sure the north and south walls are exactly the same,then the east and west walls as well.That will help with squareness.If you don't already have one buy a small 90 degree angle square to double check wall corners before attaching them togeather.
I followed a suggestion from a friend and made a mocked-up sample of my building from corrugated cardboard before I ever cut a single piece of plywood.That really did help me keep from making some mistakes.
I also suggest fastening togeather your walls at the corners with very small nails instead of relying on glue.I learned a neat trick in wood working shop in high school(over 50 years ago!) that really does work.That is to pre-drill your nail holes by cutting the head off of one of the nails you are going to use and use that as your drill bit.1/4"wood is pretty thin and pre-drilling can really help prevent split wood corners that then need to be repaired.
Foam bord makes for excellent brick and block wall surfaces.Be sure to take the paper off of both sides of it as it will warp if you don't.Brush on rubber cement adheres foam board very well.Just follow the instructions on the container.
Good luck with your garage projet.Be sure to post photos here so we can follow along.

#7 southpier

southpier

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,501 posts
  • Location:northeast coast
  • Full Name:joe smythe

Posted 25 February 2014 - 03:08 PM

you may consider building to 1:24 scale. that way, an inch will equal 2 scale feet. may make your life easier along the way.  I doubt anyone will criticize the difference, and if they do, don't invite them back again.



#8 knarf

knarf

    MCM Avid Poster

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 358 posts
  • Location:michigan
  • Full Name:frank russell matrau jr

Posted 25 February 2014 - 06:04 PM

fyi...in 1/25 scale one inch=1mm actual...craft (or popsicle)sticks scale out to a 2x10x8 once you cut off the rounded ends(check the craft section at walmart for other sizes) and lastly, get yourself that measures in scale.



#9 misterNNL

misterNNL

    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 187 posts
  • Location:Jackson Center, OH
  • Full Name:Tom Woodruff

Posted 25 February 2014 - 06:08 PM

If you would like a ruler that has 1/25 th scale right on it I have one and will gladly send you a photo copy of it by mail if you send me a PM.

#10 Mayhem

Mayhem

    MCM Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts
  • Location:Washington, Illinois
  • Full Name:Jeff Puckett

Posted 26 February 2014 - 12:15 PM

Knarf, Yes Sir!

 

MisterNNL, PM on the way. Thanks!



#11 Apriliadan

Apriliadan

    MCM Avid Poster

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 352 posts
  • Location:Gettysburg, pa
  • Full Name:Dan black

Posted 28 February 2014 - 04:03 PM

Well, my advice on your height, is to find the doors you intend to use, and the height of your lift with a car on it.
Evergreen will help you with the siding, very thin. Back it how ever you feel ok with, use the old model boxes painted white and you have drywall interior and any type of exterior texture you want.
Walthers.com for all your lighting info, have everything you need and a lot that you do not realize you need yet. I did find some lemax lights that were very affordable, and fit right into your scale.
If you use your 1/2 inch equals a foot thing you will be just fine, remember we have only began standardizing things for as long as we have been mass producing things, and that is by manufacturers. So maybe you could start your planning by saying this is when the original structure was started.

Good luck and much fun.