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3D Modelling anyone?


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#21 kenlwest

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 05:56 AM

Are your parts printed from ABS or PLA? I print with PLA, then use superglue for assembly. I use oil-based kilz primer (several coats) to fill in the layer grooves, then sand the parts. Works great. I can tell by the way you explain splitting your parts and using a dremel to remove support, and your points about fiddling with the printer, and printing larger scales, tells me that you have been experimenting with this for awhile.

One of these days I'll post some of my printed models. I specialize in Brass-Era cars, and I have several; all done in 1:12 scale. I have hesitated to show them on this forum, since most members are polystyrene builders. I should also add that I am in complete AWE of the scratchbuilding and detailing that goes on here! Stunning! If some of these scratchbuilders ever get a handle on CAD and 3d printing, no telling to what heights they may take us. Mike is what I would call an electronic scratchbuilder. Amazing stuff!!

#22 my66s55

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 08:25 AM

Are your parts printed from ABS or PLA? I print with PLA, then use superglue for assembly. I use oil-based kilz primer (several coats) to fill in the layer grooves, then sand the parts. Works great. I can tell by the way you explain splitting your parts and using a dremel to remove support, and your points about fiddling with the printer, and printing larger scales, tells me that you have been experimenting with this for awhile.

One of these days I'll post some of my printed models. I specialize in Brass-Era cars, and I have several; all done in 1:12 scale. I have hesitated to show them on this forum, since most members are polystyrene builders. I should also add that I am in complete AWE of the scratchbuilding and detailing that goes on here! Stunning! If some of these scratchbuilders ever get a handle on CAD and 3d printing, no telling to what heights they may take us. Mike is what I would call an electronic scratchbuilder. Amazing stuff!!

Ken, I print with high impact polystyrene aka hips. Same thing used for scratch building. Prints nicer than pla, sands better and easily glues with ca glue or even welds with mec. I use 1.75 filimant as I bought an E3D solid mental hot end at the begining of the year and thats what it uses. This one change plus switching to hipps improved my prints about 50 %. My heated bed is 220mm on the x axis and 320mm on the y. That's about 8.25 x 12.5 inches. Printing with hips is similar to printing with abs. Hot end needs to be 225 to 230 degrees C and the heated bed a steady 110 degrees C. I have found that using Bondo spot and glazing putty works great for filling low spots and grooves. Than I finish off using build primer and then a black guide coat before wet sanding with 400 wet or dry paper. Just like preparing a real car for paint. I don't get deep groove as I print with a .2 layer height for larger pieces and .1 for smaller.         



#23 mikevillena

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Posted 17 May 2014 - 01:25 AM

Doug, those are superb parts!  Contrary to what the uninitiated might think there is a lot of thought, planning and engineering involved in designing parts for 3D printing.  This technology is certainly impressive but ultimately it still comes down to the builder's skills to pull everything together into a finished and convincing scale model.  You have certainly showed the way! :D



#24 Chas SCR

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:15 AM

Here are a few things that I have drawn and printed here at IRC 3D Imaging and in the last 6 months we have been able to get the machine work a lot better with some new programing and made a big brake though to do scrip lettering in .1x.3 mm high resolution for detail that other company's are still trying to figure out with out doing them in SLA machine.

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