140 replies to this topic

[Farmboy]

To add my two cents, I just did my windows on a '79 Camaro to match the 1:1 blue tint. I used future and a couple of drops blue food coloring. I set my 2bl action airbrush pressure to 35 lbs, and over the course of 5 or 6 coats in 2 or 3 minutes, had that wonderful thin blue tint I was after. It came out even with no dark spots or runs. This was my first attempt at this and it worked! I`m having an argument with my photo program right now, but I`ll supply a pic if you`d like as soon as I figure out the problem.

[MikeMc]

To add my two cents, I just did my windows on a '79 Camaro to match the 1:1 blue tint. I used future and a couple of drops blue food coloring. I set my 2bl action airbrush pressure to 35 lbs, and over the course of 5 or 6 coats in 2 or 3 minutes, had that wonderful thin blue tint I was after. It came out even with no dark spots or runs. This was my first attempt at this and it worked! I`m having an argument with my photo program right now, but I`ll supply a pic if you`d like as soon as I figure out the problem.

I would love to see it Mike! I have good luck with 1:1 tint film.......not future tinting, although I dip all glass in future and swear by it

[Farmboy]

Finally got this working again. Here's the first test window I did on a gluebomb I got from a friend, my very first attempt.


These are the actual windows I'm using front and back. I hope this just wasn't beginner's luck and I can expect results like this every time. Next try is going to be for a more or less opaque green sun shading strip at the top of the windshield on another build I have in progress.

[robdot]

they dont make future any more. they were bought out by pledge.

[Harry P.]

They still make it, but now it's called "Pledge with Future Shine."

Different label, different (and stupid) new name... same product as before.

[Trae]

They still make it, but now it's called "Pledge with Future Shine."

Different label, different (and stupid) new name... same product as before.

Yep, I just recently picked up a bottle at the local supermarket.

It was, and still is, an S.C. Johnson product. Not sure why it was relabeled, but probably for the "Pledge" name recognition.

[robdot]

i had assembled a few kits with enamel testors rattle cans. i was leery of spraying lacquer clear on the enamel, so i went looking for future when i discovered they no longer make it under that brand. its pledge with future shine.

[W117monte]

Does anyone know if future "goes bad"?

[pharr7226]

I found it at Walmart.

[Harry P.]

Does anyone know if future "goes bad"?

No, it doesn't. As long as the bottle is tightly sealed it'll last forever. I bought a bottle several years ago, it's now more than half empty but what there is left in the bottle is exactly as the day I bought it.

[Mike Kucaba]

Does anyone know if future "goes bad"?

YES! recently a bottle of it held -up a convenience store in New York


Sorry,just couldn't resist.

[robdot]

oh,i just got that. )

[Drake69]

I am posting this from another forum....

I use and continue to use Pledge with Future Shine floor finish on my models instead of spray-on clearcoats. As already stated, there is no ammonia OR wax in the bottle, but an acryllic sealant that bonds on top of the paint/chrome/decals and seals them in, protecting the finish. It will not harm any glue, resin, paint, photoetch, or decals you apply to your models prior to brushing/dipping the body, and it can be repeatedly added on to layer its affects.

The most important thing to remember about Future is that it seals in ANYTHING on the body, not only the stuff you want to keep, but stuff you DON'T want to keep, like fingerprints, dust, etc..., which is why the body must be clean and wiped of all fingerprints prior to brushing/dipping. Also, make sure the paint is cured properly prior to applying Future as it has the potential to cause the paint to run if still wet.

The benefits of Future are numerous...

1: can be painted on without mess.

2: can be sanded.

3: can be removed with ammonia-based products (like thinned nail polish remover).

4: anchors photoetched parts (after being applied with glue).

5: seals in paint and decals.

6: no noticable smell (just a soft, clean smell if anything).

7: can be removed by soaking the part/body in more Future overnight (thinning itself out).

8: can be glued to (better effects with superglue).

9: cleans plastic "glass" parts to an almost invisible cleanliness.

10: can be layered once the last coat has dried completely.

11: WILL NOT YELLOW OVER TIME like older floor waxes.

12: car's body can be DIPPED in Future (thinning properties will even out excess liquid).

Hope this helps!

[Drake69]

And another important fact I just learned about Future...

In fact, by using Future on chrome and the clear plastics, you can use Insta-Cure super glue and the chrome or windows won't turn foggy.

I have yet to test this, but if this is true then it means stronger windows and cleaner looking bumpers on models, as opposed to using Elmer's glue or Micro Krystal Klear.

[Custom Mike]

I've seen this used many times, but I've never tried it. What do you thin it with for airbrushing?

[midnightprowler]

You dont need to thin it, it is airbrush ready out of the bottle, but be careful spraying, it pools very easily. Clean your airbrush IMMEDIATLY after spraying with ammonia.

[Custom Mike]

You don't need to thin it, it is airbrush ready out of the bottle, but be careful spraying, it pools very easily. Clean your airbrush IMMEDIATELY after spraying with ammonia.

Thanks Lee, I knew it could be airbrushed, but had no idea how to go about it. Time for the experimentation to begin!

[Iron Fist]

Thanks Lee, I knew it could be airbrushed, but had no idea how to go about it. Time for the experimentation to begin!

I also found Future to pool easily, just ran it through my airbrush straight out of the bottle.
I lost interest in trying to make Future work as a clear coat as I am having great success with decanting Testors wet look clear lacquer, though I still use Future for small clear coat touch ups using a brush, and it works great for decals.

Edited by Iron Fist, 12 March 2011 - 05:39 AM.

[935k3]

With some practice it can be wiped on instead of spraying. I use the round disposable cosmetic pads from the dollar store. I dip them in Future and damp some execes off on a paper towel then carefully wipe it on to good result. I use a Q-Tip for smaller areas.