142 replies to this topic

[Drake69]

Thanks all, back to the store for me today.

For best results, consider purchasing:

1: 3 to 4 bottles of Pledge with Future
2: 2 sealable Tupperware containers large enough to fit your longest and widest models in from bumper to bumper, and some smaller sealable containers for parts
3: a few empty model paint mixing jars
4: plastic eyedroppers
5: cotton swabs or micro-applicator brushes
6: a large container of Windex
7: rubber gloves, disposable
8: paper towels

Fill one container with as much Future as you can to completely coat a whole model body and keep it sealed until used. This is called dipping a model. Pour the rest in at least one paint jar, label it "Future", and store it with your acrylic paints. Take the Windex and pour a second paint jar full of that, label it as "Windex", and store it equally among your paints. Use the cotton swabs, applicators and eyedroppers to add Future to spot areas like your dashboards to give them a reflective appearance. Use the Windex to thin out overage amounts of Future. Once you have a body painted and/or decaled, you can dip the entire car in Future for however long you want (provided the paint/decals have had time to dry...), then with tweezers, forceps, etc... and gloved hands transfer the car body to the other Tupperware "clean room" so it can be sealed up and allowed to drip dry on paper towels for a minimum of 12 hours, max of 24. The gloves are to prohibit fingerprints from getting on the car, the clean room is to keep airborne particles from adhering to the body, and so forth. Same principle applies to the parts containers.To keep the car off the bottom of their containers, place the car on top of an inverted empty spray can or glass paint bottle (don't want the car sticking to the plastic top or any labels...).

Hope this helps!

Edited by Drake69, 28 May 2011 - 10:05 AM.

[LOBBS]

For best results, consider purchasing:

1: 3 to 4 bottles of Pledge with Future
2: 2 sealable Tupperware containers large enough to fit your longest and widest models in from bumper to bumper, and some smaller sealable containers for parts
3: a few empty model paint mixing jars
4: plastic eyedroppers
5: cotton swabs or micro-applicator brushes
6: a large container of Windex
7: rubber gloves, disposable
8: paper towels

Fill one container with as much Future as you can to completely coat a whole model body and keep it sealed until used. This is called dipping a model. Pour the rest in at least one paint jar, label it "Future", and store it with your acrylic paints. Take the Windex and pour a second paint jar full of that, label it as "Windex", and store it equally among your paints. Use the cotton swabs, applicators and eyedroppers to add Future to spot areas like your dashboards to give them a reflective appearance. Use the Windex to thin out overage amounts of Future. Once you have a body painted and/or decaled, you can dip the entire car in Future for however long you want (provided the paint/decals have had time to dry...), then with tweezers, forceps, etc... and gloved hands transfer the car body to the other Tupperware "clean room" so it can be sealed up and allowed to drip dry on paper towels for a minimum of 12 hours, max of 24. The gloves are to prohibit fingerprints from getting on the car, the clean room is to keep airborne particles from adhering to the body, and so forth. Same principle applies to the parts containers.To keep the car off the bottom of their containers, place the car on top of an inverted empty spray can or glass paint bottle (don't want the car sticking to the plastic top or any labels...).

Hope this helps!

I've never heard of the dipping method, just airbrushing it on.

[sjordan2]

I experimented with it by dipping cotton balls and applying to the basic kit color (molded in red). Came out great.

Edited by sjordan2, 28 May 2011 - 12:29 PM.

[Nick Winter]

How should I do this, I've bought the Future and have many old windsheilds in old kits that need fixed so that no longer have scratches and fogging.

Nick

[MikeMc]

How should I do this, I've bought the Future and have many old windsheilds in old kits that need fixed so that no longer have scratches and fogging.

Nick

Nick...start by cleaning and removing all crud from them, then dip it slowly, hold by a corner and wick off the excess. You may still need to sand and polish if you have deep scratches

[Mike Kucaba]

You should polish out the glass first and reduce the size (depth) of the scratch. Be careful polishing clear plastic as it is real brittle. You usually dip the part in future and wick off excess with a papertowel then set aside to dry.Sometimes it's hard to get a place hold the part so you may have to use a brush to apply .

[Nick Winter]

Thank you Mike's.
Nick

Edited by Nick Winter, 28 May 2011 - 02:39 PM.

[Drake69]

I've never heard of the dipping method, just airbrushing it on.

With dipping you get a no-risk method of a strong clearcoat pretty much every time. The reason for this is Future has a leveling agent in it that evens out the amount of liquid in longer standing spots. And if there is any buildup left over, a cotton swab with Windex will get rid of it, followed by a swab of Future to balance it out. Easy.

[charlie8575]

For polish, start with non-gel toothpaste. You want regular toothpaste that has a very fine abrasive. Rub it in with a soft paper towel or napkin, adding to the toothpaste as you need to. Polish in a circular motion until the scratch is reduced or altogether eliminated. Wash off in soapy water and air-dry before attempting anything else.

Charlie Larkin

[djway3474]

I have fixed windshields with major glue marks and tire melt marks. Sanding stick to cut to the bottom of the melt/scratch. Not a real course grade. Then go through the polishing kit down to the 12000 grade so it looks real clear. Then dip the glass and then touch the bottom edge to a paper towel to remove the buildup.
One tip is to do all this with the glass resting on your pant leg. This distributes the load and helps to avoid cracking the glass.
I will often do a second dip to really get a nice smooth surface. Maybe around ten minutes after the first.
Hope this helps.
Dwayne

[walt francis]

Go about half way down and this will help
fixing glass

[Nick Winter]

Thank you Walt and others.

Nick

[fairlaneranch]

Wetsand out the scratches with 800 then 1000-1200 grit.Clean the glass and shoot with clear.works for me!

[Lownslow]

had 2 cars pit out but after fidgeting around with the spoons i found a fix.

spray a really rough coat of future


then hit it with the clear again

heres the result it still has fisheyes but hardly as visible as before this is only a first coat itll be gone in the second

[Agent G]

I don't have any "before" pics, but this one was all messed up. I used an old can of MM Gloss black over a flat black primer. The end result of being cheap and too lazy to go buy a new can was an overall finish worse than Frank's above trunk photos.

Many days of sanding and polishing revealed the results seen here. These pics were taken right after I unboxed the car and hadn't dusted it off yet.







G

[RobRus]

Hi Guys,

This is my first post here and I thought I might shed some light on what this is.

The problem is called "fish eye" and it is usually caused by silicone.

I was a painter in a body shop for almost 20 years and have seen this many times. In my case it usually came from a body man spraying silicone on rubber door seals to ease installing them, but it can come from any number of sources. In models it probably comes from the mold release they use on some parts (tires especially).

The best way to eliminate this problem is to make sure everything is clean before you apply each coat of primer or paint but when they pop up there is hope.

There is a product called Marson Smoothy Fisheye Eliminator that you put in your paint as soon as you see them pop up and the paint is still wet. When using a full size spray gun with a quart cup you just add a drop or two into your paint and quickly apply another coat of paint. The fisheye's pretty much smooth out and dissapear. With an airbrush I would guess if you could use a thin piece of plastic or something to put a very small drop into your cup and mix it up well.

The thing is when you start to use it in your paint you have to use it in all other paint that goes on your car or they will come back so it is best not to have to use it in the first place.

A word of warning... DO NOT keep this stuff near your bench or any place you work regularly or you will be forced to use it in every paint job. It actually contains silicone so keep it somewhere that is safe and easy to get to when you need it. Make sure you do not get it on your hands or you will contaminate anything you touch.

The best way to not get fish eyes is to make sure all parts are very clean prior to priming and painting and keep anything you suspect of having silicone on it away from your model. I am pretty sensitive to the feel of silicone so as soon as I notice a set of tires that have mold release on them I wash them off with thinner or wax and grease remover a couple of times throwing my cleaning rag out after each wash.

Silicone is nasty stuff and can really screw up a paint job as you have seen in the above example. Fisheye Eliminator is great stuff when you need it but should be used with caution and as a last resort.


http://www.repaintsu...-eliminator.cfm

Hope this helps.

[M0par Jim]

Hi you all,

I have red on here before that some of you uses Pledge Future Floor shine as a clear coat. and Some on here was talking about how they used it on white models and then notice the models turning yellowish? Well at first I didn't realize just to what you all was kinda talking about. Well as my wife was at out local Wal-Mart shopping she came across the new stuff so I picked it up. Looked at the bottle of it.. I notice the new stuff now has a fruit sent to it.. lemon. Now take a lemon and cut it and look at the juice come out of it. Notice the color? It is a slight off yellowish clear. The future in the new stuff is there but what is making it turn yellowish on people is the fruit sent they added to the clear. Now we went to a few different stores around town that very day and I also looked at the bottles in each store that carried Future. Now the thing is one store Trader Horn still had the original bottles in along with a few of the new bottles as well setting next to each other. This gave me a good comparison on the two. The original doesn't have a fruit sent added to it as I know of (I have a original bottle here at the house of the stuff as well). Now I coated one model car down in future, and another model car down in future with a lemon sent and the lemon one yellowished on me in a few days (sorry I don't have photos of the two model car's to show).

[montecarlo1980]

Don't know if this has been mentioned or not yet, I like to make "Future Glue". I found this tip from a modeler on you tube. Take yourself an old empty jar of paint, cleaned out of course, like a Tamiya jar... or any other container you have that has a lid u can tighten. Pour yourself some future into the container, and set it on a shelf somewhere for about a week to two weeks.. with the lid off. You will notice after some time has passed, the future will thicken up.

After about a week or two, you should end up with a nice "honey" like consistency to the future. Put your lid on it and now you have some future glue. I use this stuff to glue in my windshields, taillights and other parts I don't want to get glue markings on. Since your windshield is more than likely dipped in future already, using the future glue it will bond into itself and make a crystal clear joining. It looks great when gluing in lenses to your chrome headlights.

You can find all sorts of uses with this future glue. Now keep in mind, this future glue is not like a super glue or plastic weld glue, so if your gluing on a side mirror, it will come off if you knock it hard enough. If you feel like trying it out, pour some in a container u have, set it on a shelf for a week or two, and test some on an old junk car.

Edited by montecarlo1980, 24 October 2012 - 08:22 PM.

[Futurabat]

I've used the dyes that come in suncatchers to tint Future as well. I was actually coming here to start a thread on Future just now. I'm trying to find out if it's the climates that cause different problems with it like cracking, spiderwebbing and yellowing. I've been in the Ohio/W.Va. area and using Future for about 15 years with zero ill problems. Martinfan is in Arizona and has cracking problems. So i'm beginning to think it's a climatised thing?

[martinfan5]

I've used the dyes that come in suncatchers to tint Future as well. I was actually coming here to start a thread on Future just now. I'm trying to find out if it's the climates that cause different problems with it like cracking, spiderwebbing and yellowing. I've been in the Ohio/W.Va. area and using Future for about 15 years with zero ill problems. Martinfan is in Arizona and has cracking problems. So i'm beginning to think it's a climatised thing?

Or is it a application problem that is causing it?, meaning putting to much on at time?