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Prepping windshields/ Tamiya 'Smoke' transparent lacquer


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#1 Speedfreak

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 11:53 AM

This is really a two part question; What do people do (if anything) to prep their windshields before installation? I know some people use auto polish stuff for this and their windshields look amazing. The second part of the question is, I'm going to use Tamiya's transparent 'Smoke' to tint a windshield, can I use the auto polish method to prep the windshield 'before' I apply the tint? Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 



#2 fitforbattle

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 12:07 PM

Is the smoke really available in TS? Thought they only did them in PS sprays.
Or do you mean the Tamiya X paint?

#3 Speedfreak

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 12:15 PM

Ya, I just checked Robin, it's TS-71.



#4 slusher

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 07:17 PM

I would think wax would cause it to run easy but if you have an old windshield you could try it..



#5 JollySipper

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 01:34 PM

Since you would have to tint the inside of the glass, I would think that you could polish the outside...... just do it after you spray the inside though, in case you get any overspray on the outside.  :) 



#6 Scale-Master

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 04:17 PM

Good luck using the TS-71 for window tinting. Unless you want "limo tint" or darker that is. I've used it several times and in order for it to smooth out and not look splotchy you have to put a certain amount on. That amount varies on how thin the coats you use to build it up. I think it looks more like "transparent black".

If you don't want the tint to be too dark I suggest using the acrylic Smoke. It is lighter, and while it too needs to be built up to a certain degree as well, I find it works better for most of my tinting needs. Of course you'll need to airbrush it...

#7 Speedfreak

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 07:23 PM

Good luck using the TS-71 for window tinting. Unless you want "limo tint" or darker that is. I've used it several times and in order for it to smooth out and not look splotchy you have to put a certain amount on. That amount varies on how thin the coats you use to build it up. I think it looks more like "transparent black".

If you don't want the tint to be too dark I suggest using the acrylic Smoke. It is lighter, and while it too needs to be built up to a certain degree as well, I find it works better for most of my tinting needs. Of course you'll need to airbrush it...

 

BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH, I don't have an air brush! So, how does Tamiya intend for this to be used? Over a base coat? 

 

Tulio and some other people use what would be more of a 'polish' than a wax Carl, something with a little grit to take the scratches and imperfections out of the plastic, and , his windshields always look 1:1  I've never done it so I'll experiment with some parts box windshields, which I have. And then I'll spray the plastic and see what happens, hope it doesn't go 'limo' on me, but , at least I'll know. 

 

Thanks for all the great tips and suggestions you guys, ya gotta love this hobby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Gee, all I said was carp (re-arrange) and they BLAHED it, lol.


Edited by Speedfreak, 27 June 2014 - 07:24 PM.


#8 Pete J.

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 07:45 PM

What he said.  Mark is the Tamiya master!



#9 fitforbattle

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 03:21 AM

All though the acrylic smoke and transparents from Tamiya "needs" to be shot through an airbrush, I've had great results brushing it on with a brush, specifically one of those brushes with thick bristles meant for kids watercolors. Super stiff stuff.

 

I have to say tho, I've only used the brushes on headlight and rear light lenses, in 1:24 and 1:10. in other words no bigger areas. The brushes has always been as wide as the parts painted. You could try this on a spare part.

 

Paint I'm referring to is the Tamiya X-# (smoke, transparent).



#10 Scale-Master

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 05:32 AM

Another point to consider with any tinting of clear parts is scratches. If they are not just very minor and superficial there is a good chance the tint will collect in them and amplify them. 

As mentioned, don't use wax, only polish.  I like Meguiar's mag polish for this.

RE: Blah,blah,blah, B) I'd still suggest investing in an airbrush. It'll pay off very quickly in paint cost saving and abilities to build better.  For the cost of a handful of Tamiya TS cans a decent airbrush can be purchased, and I get a lot more control and paint mileage by spraying my TS paints through an airbrush.  Plus I can paint any brand and color.



#11 Darbo

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 12:11 PM

I spray the iside of the windows straight out the can, Very light coats though.

I you spray it on to heavy it can pool up in the corners of the glass.



#12 Speedfreak

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 12:53 PM

So what was TS-71 created for? To be used as a top coat over a base coat somewhat like regular 'clear' is used? And has anyone used it for this?


Edited by Speedfreak, 29 June 2014 - 12:54 PM.


#13 Scale-Master

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 05:50 AM

I think it is more akin to the candy color coats, transparent red, blue, yellow, etc. than clear gloss.  But much darker, like I said, transparent black.  It does however gloss up very nice.



#14 GLMFAA1

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 06:00 AM

Tamiya clear green is useful for making the early tinited windshield with the green at the top only ( air brush )

I use Future on my windshield to give them a thinner appearance

greg



#15 Speedfreak

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 07:42 AM

I think it is more akin to the candy color coats, transparent red, blue, yellow, etc. than clear gloss.  But much darker, like I said, transparent black.  It does however gloss up very nice.

 

Ya, that's what I meant really when I said 'clear.