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Revell's Original Mini Cooper Final Assembly


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#21 microwheel

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 04:24 AM

Ha! My Geo Tracker is 11 feet long.  It takes up half of the length of my garage, which is 20 feet long... which gets me thinking... what collector car can I buy that's 9 feet long?   :rolleyes:

 

LMAO Tom, well I'm not sure about 9 foot long, but the 75 thru 79 MG-Midget with rubber bumpers is 10ft 4 inches long and 4ft 4 inches wide.. Maybe if ya found a 74 or older MG-Midget with chrome bumpers it would be pretty close.. But I'll bet the original style Minis would be 9 foot or even shorter.. I'll have to measure one of the guys' Minis in the club at the next meeting now just to find out lmao.



#22 Skip

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 05:18 AM

The Mini Mk I should be the easiest of any Mini to open the doors on, there isn't much if any structure to the door itself, those hinges are spot on. There are a couple of Mk I Mini specific websites which should give you a good idea of how to construct the door structure. The Mk II Mini door is almost identical to the Mk I, Mk III and later had roll up windows and different doors

The Mk I Mini is 10 foot 6 inches long, 4 foot 7 inches wide, 4 foot 5 inches tall. The inches vary from source to source, the 10 X 4 X 4 dimensions are pretty much the standard measurements that most people (I know) quote. I remember reading in a couple books where BMC's original design spec/idea for the Mini was that "Four Adult Men Wearing Hats" could ride comfortably. It was almost designed from the inside out. I've never had any standard sized adults ride in the back seat of my Mini, I'd feel sorry for anyone who tried!!

#23 Tom Geiger

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 06:05 AM

 

LMAO Tom, well I'm not sure about 9 foot long, but the 75 thru 79 MG-Midget with rubber bumpers is 10ft 4 inches long and 4ft 4 inches wide.. Maybe if ya found a 74 or older MG-Midget with chrome bumpers it would be pretty close.. But I'll bet the original style Minis would be 9 foot or even shorter.. I'll have to measure one of the guys' Minis in the club at the next meeting now just to find out lmao.

 

I curse the builder of my house!  They made the 2 car garage exactly 20 feet deep.  Heck, many garages are 24 feet deep so that you can have a work bench at the back.  Considering that my garage is flat with the upstairs of my house, it may not be a bad idea to add a 6 foot addition to the front of it.  Then two small cars would fit on each side. And no doubt a heck of a lot cheaper than building that extra 2 car garage out back!  I was just on a Trabant site and saw several for sale in the USA... which got me thinking...  and I wouldn't mind having an original Mini or Fiat 500....



#24 Danno

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 12:18 AM

Is this work-in-progress thread going to be a mini-series? 



#25 microwheel

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 12:39 AM

Is this work-in-progress thread going to be a mini-series? 

 

Hi Danno, not if I can help it. But as I said at the beginning, because of how small the hinges are that I have to make, I have to make sure they are gonna be strong and are gonna work. So I am averaging one hinge a day, this gives me time to test each one for strength.  I have 3 of them made as of last night and started on the 4th.



#26 Darren B

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 12:57 AM

Wow this is gonna be a real treat and I love the hinges, the original mini is my favorite ride, I will be watching this one with great interest.



#27 microwheel

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 05:53 AM

Got the hinges finished today as well as one door rough cut out. The hinges are all straight and level, though the pic of them doesnt make them look like it. I took the pics on a piece of cardboard that was a little warpy.

 

DSCF3036-vi.jpg

 

In this pic the door is scribed all the way through all the way around, using Exacto's new No. 11 Z blades, (which seems to be thinner near the point on the back edge, than the old No. 11 blades are) with the exception of the molded on hinges.. then, using a pencil, I maked the areas that are gonna need a little work as far as gap and straightening up from scribing the door out.

 

DSCF3040-vi.jpg

 

In this pic you can see the cut lines from the back side.

 

DSCF3041-vi.jpg

 

In this pic the door has been completely removed. The opening and the door edges will still need a little sanding and filling with evergreen plastic strip, but shouldnt need much. I left the molded on hinges in place for now till I get the door and door opening cleaned  up, and I will most likey leave them until I get the door jams made.

 

DSCF3042-vi.jpg

 

Remember this is early in the build yet, and I still have a lot of planning out, and scratch building to do from here. I'm a slow builder on projects like this because I want to make sure I plan out and address every potentual issue as I go. So bare with this build, its gonna take awhile. LOL.


Edited by microwheel, 24 July 2014 - 05:58 AM.


#28 TFchronos

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:38 AM

Cool project and great progress, I'll watching this for sure.



#29 microwheel

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 05:42 PM

Cool project and great progress, I'll watching this for sure.

 

Thanks Jonathan, At times it might not seem like much progress, opening up doors on a kit this small sometimes requires a little more patience and work to get things right and still look like it's supposed to.



#30 slusher

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 08:35 PM

 

Thanks Jonathan, At times it might not seem like much progress, opening up doors on a kit this small sometimes requires a little more patience and work to get things right and still look like it's supposed to.

 I really enjoy builds like your project Jim, i build box stock so i get to learn something and i am a slow builder also....



#31 DynoMight

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 03:06 AM

I would go insane building those hinges :blink: Great job Jim. Another great model in the works.



#32 Tom Geiger

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 03:55 AM

Great progress and a lot of work to make those tiny little hinges the size of rice grains!  Kinda like neutering fleas!

 

And going back to the thread about how much you'd charge to build someone a model... well those hinges are worth hundreds of dollars at shop rate.



#33 microwheel

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 04:36 AM

Morning everyone, Got a little more done on Mini Mouse last night and this morning. I cleaned up the door opening and the LH door itself, and thinned the leading edges of the door. Filled in the gaps from cutting it out, and removed and cleaned up the interior door panel.

 

DSCF3055-vi.jpg

 

 

In the next pic you can see the gaps are all filled and the door fits good.

 

 

 

 

DSCF3060-vi.jpg

 

Next I scribed an cut out the LH interior door panel

 

DSCF3062-vi.jpg

 

DSCF3061-vi.jpg

 

The upholstery part of the panel will be removed and I'll scratch build that part as a separate piece out of thinner evergreen plastic. This should help give more depth to the interior door frame part.

 

DSCF3048-vi.jpg

 

With the LH side interior panel test fitted into place, there looks like there will be only a little work to do to scratch build the door jams.  The hardest part will probably be the bottom edge where the chassis and the floor tub come together. Its a little too much in that area. That's one of the good things with the tamiya kit over this one from revell, the interior floor is part of the chassis in that kit. But ya gotta work with what you have. So I will have to spend the extra time getting it right.

 

DSCF3047-vi.jpg

 

See next post



#34 microwheel

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 04:37 AM

The jams wont take much filling and lip building, the back edge jam will need the most work, and I may have to rework the interior door frame on the back edge itself to make sure there will be jam clearance

 

DSCF3049-vi.jpg.

 

Here you can see how the interior panel and door edge are almost even. This would be a problem if I don't rework this area, on the interior side, to allow for a jam. But I will.

 

DSCF3051-vi.jpg

 

Im working on the LH side first to get the process down that I want. Once this side is figured out, I will transfer the process to the RH side. I'm planning on making this a US version with the Left side being the drivers side. I also plan to open the rear trunk and scratch build a truck pan. Only draw back will be finding a single spare tire without having to buy a second kit just for that.

 

More to come after the weekend. The wife and I are taking the motor home out camping for the weekend, so I wont be working on Mini Mouse for a few days. But I hope to get back to work on it the first of the week.



#35 Jaguar man 21

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 04:54 AM

I wish had the skill to do that to my mini

#36 Tom Geiger

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 05:28 AM

Jim - Just a thought. Instead of scratch building the door panels, maybe vacuform them with thinner plastic?

 

This project does look good. I can see the quality in the ROG Mini. I haven't got one yet but I just got the Trabant wagon and the quality is excellent, also pressed in Poland.



#37 microwheel

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 04:36 AM

Started working on the LH door jams for Mini Mouse today. Got the upholstery removed for the interior door panel and a rough cut replacement, cut out of evergreen sheet plastic. I'm molding the door jams to the interior side panels, this makes it easier to fit them as well as paint them. Sorry it doesn't seem like a lot of progress , but opening doors and scratch building body side jams, and door jams, on any kit, takes time to get everything lined up right. I'm working on one side at a time so I can carry the process from one side, over to the other.

 

First two pics show the body side door jams roughed in.

 

DSCF3087-vi.jpg

 

DSCF3088-vi.jpg

 

The next two pics shows the side panel in the car, with the body side door jams sitting in place. Because Revell uses a separate interior tub and chassis pan, the bottom body side door jam wont be as accurate as It should be. Mostly, because having a interior floor pan that sits on top of a chassis pan creates a fairly large lip. Yes, I know. I could have cut sections out of the interior floor and grafted it to the chassis pan, to help fix some of this, but I decided not to go into that much extra work. maybe on the next kit I open the doors on, I'll spend more time on that area.

 

DSCF3084-vi.jpg

 

I'll also be adding material to the side window lip where the notch is for aligning the side window. This will make a more uniformed lip all the way around, that can be painted semi-gloss black, for a rubber door seal look. I'll be trimming the tab off the side window glass that fits in that area since the glass will be attached to the door only.

 

DSCF3065-vi.jpg

 

In the next two pics, you can see where I removed the upholstery from the door frame panel. I attached the panel to the inside of the door and filled in the gaps with CA glue coated with baking soda. Then sanded the edges down to blend the whole thing in to the door skin.

 

DSCF3068-vi.jpg

 

Removing the upholstery area of the interior door panel gives it more depth when attached to the door skin. I'm making a replacement upholstery section out of thinner evergreen sheeting to keep most of the new extra depth. It will also make it easier to paint and detail with this part separate.

 

DSCF3067-vi.jpg

 

Having to post in two separate posts due to image limits in the posts.  Continued.......



#38 microwheel

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 04:41 AM

Continuing from last post, in  the following pic you can see how the door panel lines up pretty good with the rest of the interior side panel.

 

DSCF3074-vi.jpg

 

Using as thin of evergreen sheeting as I have in my stock, you can see in the next pic, the rough cut out of the upholstery panel. The sheeting I cut it out from will be used as a pattern for the RH side when I get that far. I'll be adding the pattern to the upholstery panel later and will post more pics when I get the panel done.

 

DSCF3070-vi.jpg

 

To be continued....



#39 Tom Geiger

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 05:42 AM

Wow!  Great precise work on that door and jamb!  No criticism here about the speed you are working at, you are working consistantly and moving forward on a very intricate assembly.  Kudos to you!    I'm enjoying watching.



#40 slusher

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 07:11 AM

Very impressive work.