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Paint Questions and Experiments!


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#41 1hobby1

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Posted 09 September 2014 - 03:19 PM

Yes, I thought you'd like it.  :)

 Sprays very very nice. Easy to control, I am sold on it. I am going to post some pictures tomorrow of the outcome. I also used Tamiya clear over it. came out great! (well for me atleast hahaha). Im going to try the polishing process on it as well.



#42 my80malibu

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Posted 09 September 2014 - 03:23 PM

Where Have I heard that before.



#43 1hobby1

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Posted 10 September 2014 - 12:34 PM

Here is the duplicolor Primer after 2 coats:

Attached File  photo 1 (1).JPG   92.18KB   0 downloads

 

3 coats of paint, no clear:

Attached File  photo 5.JPG   96.67KB   0 downloads

 

Here is duplicolor paint with no primer under:

1st coat:

Attached File  photo 2 (1).JPG   96.7KB   0 downloads

 

2nd:

Attached File  photo 1.JPG   72.8KB   0 downloads

 

3rd:

Attached File  photo 4.JPG   107.74KB   0 downloads

 

3 coats of clear:

Attached File  photo 2.JPG   108.15KB   0 downloads

 



#44 Speedfreak

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Posted 10 September 2014 - 06:04 PM

Coming along nicely. It's such a great feeling when painting starts to turn out well. Then you start to relax and it flows. I've only experienced this a couple of times recently :) I'm in the painting trenches too, and the mustard gas has been thick. Great thread btw.


Edited by Speedfreak, 10 September 2014 - 06:05 PM.


#45 bobthehobbyguy

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Posted 12 September 2014 - 04:00 AM

You've made a lot of progress. The new paint samples are looking better.

One thing to be aware of how soon you are shooting the clear coat. The tamiya and testors paint seems to be alcohol based ij fact you can strip them with rubbing alcohol. You want to make sure to allow the lacquer to outgas before you spray the clear. Out gassing means that the paint solvent needs time to evaporate completely. Lacquer dries from the outside in. To see if the lacquer has outgassed completely if you smell the paint and it has a strong smell it still has a lot of solvents in it.

Hope this makes sense.

#46 1hobby1

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Posted 12 September 2014 - 04:49 PM

You've made a lot of progress. The new paint samples are looking better.

One thing to be aware of how soon you are shooting the clear coat. The tamiya and testors paint seems to be alcohol based ij fact you can strip them with rubbing alcohol. You want to make sure to allow the lacquer to outgas before you spray the clear. Out gassing means that the paint solvent needs time to evaporate completely. Lacquer dries from the outside in. To see if the lacquer has outgassed completely if you smell the paint and it has a strong smell it still has a lot of solvents in it.

Hope this makes sense.

Great! thanks!



#47 sliferkiller

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 06:13 PM

So what was the verdict on the Rustoleum primer? I want to use it on a Revell body, but only if it works!

Also will the Tamiya clear be glossy after wax and polish or will i have to get the glossy clear for it to shine?


Edited by sliferkiller, 13 September 2014 - 06:15 PM.


#48 1hobby1

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 06:39 AM

So what was the verdict on the Rustoleum primer? I want to use it on a Revell body, but only if it works!

Also will the Tamiya clear be glossy after wax and polish or will i have to get the glossy clear for it to shine?

The Rustoleum plastic primer is ok. its thick though. The Rustoleum sandable primer is too 'hot' for plastics. It begins to craze. From what I've been guided towards, as well as used is the Duplicolor Primer and Paint. I'm a very big fan, in fact, I just sprayed another model with it today and once again good results.

 

For the clear, I used the Testors and it was pretty good. came out glossy and smooth. All depends how glossy you want the paint to be I guess. For me it was a good amount of shine without any wax. I was impressed.

 

I let one of the body's I had with duplicolor paint (no clear)  gas out for a week and used the Rustoleum clear on it today  and it had a much glossier look. I did one pretty wet coat and it was enough. 

 

 

The Model I am on now is a 66 Shelby GT350 and I want to have the stripe decals. I'm probably going to use the testors clear because it doesn't spray out as thick as the rustoleum so it will be easier to control. But if I do a body with no decals on it I think the Rustoleum clear may be my first choice.

 

 

If there is one thing I learned is trial and error. This is what has worked for me with practice models. I just painted the GT350 (which is not a practice car) and it came out way better than my first car. I'll post some pictures of it later or tomorrow.



#49 Speedfreak

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 12:46 PM

You're doing a good job with this Tim. I'm following along to learn.



#50 1hobby1

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 01:53 PM

Here is duplicolor primer and duplicolor universal black with no clear coat.

Attached File  image.jpg   167.06KB   0 downloads


Edited by 1hobby1, 15 September 2014 - 02:19 AM.


#51 1hobby1

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 05:07 AM

Been a while but I'm back with another question! So I've been working on this 66' shelby gt350 and I never applied decals on a body before. So today I went for it. Did it come out perfect? No, but much better than expected for my first time. Anyways, the decals are drying on the body and I was wondering if I NEED to clear coat the body with the decals OR can it stay as is with no clear coat? The clear would be Testors spray lacquer. Any words of advice would help greatly! Thanks!

Attached File  image.jpg   103.44KB   0 downloads

#52 MrObsessive

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 05:16 AM

Personally, I don't clear over decals, particularly if the actual car's stripes were NOT painted but applied as in tape stripes or something. In the case of the Shelby those stripes were painted on, so if I were building it, I'd probably clear over them or I'd simply paint the stripes on to be consistent. Use caution when applying clear over decals.........some don't like certain paints and if I were you, I'd test them in a tiny area either on the decal sheet, or in an inconspicuous area somewhere on the body.

 

Hope this helps!



#53 1hobby1

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 05:33 AM

Since they are already applied and the model fully complete chassis and motor wise should I play this model safe and leave it without clear? And practice on another model? Seems to be best idea I feel. Thanks for the advice

#54 MrObsessive

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 05:37 AM

Yes, I'd leave them alone...........you're still learning. There will be other models that this paint scenario will come up. ;)

 

BTW, I want to tell you that for a beginner, your paint job came out very well! I wish mine had come out that nice some 35+ years ago when I started building!


Edited by MrObsessive, 21 September 2014 - 05:39 AM.


#55 1hobby1

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 05:55 AM

Thank you very much! I'm still learning and trying to figure some things out but I was very happy with this paint job.

Edited by 1hobby1, 21 September 2014 - 06:11 AM.


#56 Speedfreak

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 01:57 AM

Steve, great to see you actively pursuing this hobby, it's great fun, and , will keep you out of trouble!



#57 jwrass

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 11:51 AM

Steve,

 

Bill (Ace) is a professional 1:1 body technician and painter ( and so much more his resume is very impressive) he and I are about the same age and came though the ranks of custom shops and builders where the work had to be show quality.(you can view my resume on my profile)

 

If you follow his advice you will have success. Mr Obsessive makes some great point as well. As do others

 

I'd give you my two cents but I thinks the gang has it under control!

 

I can see you have made great progress since you first started the thread. Keep up the good work! You'll get there.

 

jwrass



#58 1hobby1

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 06:36 AM

That's great to hear! I tried my best to apply their advice! The gt350 is done I just need to re paint the hood. I just painted a 32 ford yesterday. I was going for an old school look and did a flat black and it came out great! I will post some pics tonight!

Edited by 1hobby1, 26 September 2014 - 05:03 PM.


#59 1hobby1

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 03:42 AM

As I said I'm working on this hot rod and wanted that flat black look. I actually used Walmart brand flat black for 97cents and it came out great in my opinion!! Thank you all for your advice along the way!

 

 

Attached File  photo.JPG   89.74KB   0 downloads

 

 

 



#60 Speedfreak

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 05:52 AM

Looks pretty good Steve, I love painting with flat black.