Thanks for the replies gents!
The front wheels are posable

The front axle was scratchbuilt using aluminum tubing. I simply used the Paystar's front spindles by making kingpins from 1/16 aluminum tubing, drilling holes through the ends of the axle at the same angle as the original axle's, and drilling a 1/16 hole all the way through the Spindles after assembling the spindle (turning knuckle) as per kit.
I would suggest using 2 separate pices for the axle tube, (3/16) and insert a piece of 7/32 thru the differential, just barely longer than the pumpkin. Then you can trim the axle tubes to the proper width and offset, as well as making sure the kingpins are paralell to each other, something that is difficult to do when drilling a single piece. You also have to file the ends of the axles away at an angle to give room for the backplate's motion.
It doesn't have those big round joints on the ends of the axle but I can live with that for a setup that steers.
The tie rod uses the kit's rods ends inserted into 3/32 aluminum tubing bent to clear the back of the diff housing.
The differential came from an AMT Kenworth T600A. Since these vary in size, just try to find one that is relatively small, but still from a big truck.
The transfer case was from an AMT Ford Bigfoot (the early version). I had to shorten it slightly to fit between the frame rails. I did a toot on how to make the rear equalizers work too if anyone is interested. Dan