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Member Since 09 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:53 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Future (pledge) becoming milky

Yesterday, 10:54 AM

As odd as this might sound, it could be a problem NOT thinning it. 


I found when I shot Future full strength that it was a bit of a pain in the backside to get right. You need it thinned with some alcohol to makeit dry a bit quicker, and also to level out better. That's what works for me.


Incidentally, I find that if I take a jar and make 1/3 Future and 2/3 Alcohol, it makes dandy thinner for any brand of acrylic paint, including Tamiya. The Future re-inforces the paint, making it dry harder and shinier, and more sandable. 


If, by chance (like on my current project, the Hertz SVO) you end up with a colour that's flat, thin it down with Straight Future a bit, then airbrush it. Unless you thin the paint until it doesn't cover, you can ALMOST NEVER add too much for airbrushing purposes. Handbrushing is different, of course!


Good luck! I'll be interested to see how it goes!

In Topic: Getting rid of swirls

Yesterday, 10:51 AM

I have used the Novus on test pieces; the Novus seems to leave more scratches than the Tamiya compounds.


I think the main thing that's giving me grief is the cloth: what do I use to apply and remove the Novus or Tamiya stuff?

In Topic: Future (pledge) becoming milky

14 April 2014 - 02:40 PM

I've had this.


It can be because the Future is too thin. Yes, you read it right, too thin! 


I cut my Future about 60% Future, 40% Isopropyl (99% only!) alcohol.


I find that if I do a few light coats, and then sand between them, and then put on a much heavier coat, this will get rid of the problem. If you're applying the Future and it runs, you've put it on too heavy. Don't try and wipe it off, it'll just make more of a mess. 


Better to just get a test body to try on first!


As Future gets thicker, it actually gets cloudy and whitish. However, it's always glossy, if it's on thick! Don't freak out! If it goes milky, just put it under a 60W bulb lamp. Not RIGHT under, but a bit under, and the heat will begin to dry the Future. as it dries, it will go clear. 


A nice thick coat will allow you to have more to sand on. Thing is, at this point, I've found that it normally takes about 1-2 weeks for a thick coat to dry to sandable. However, Future is REALLY hard when it has cured, so you'll be able to sand hardcore. It's well worth it!


Hope this helps!

In Topic: A (best left) forgotten Ferrari

11 April 2014 - 03:04 PM

Interesting spot on the Ultrahots wheels! 


In its day, this thing was well-lauded, it seems. There was an article in a 1981-82 magazine (Motor Trend, I think) that called it the "most successful showcar ever". WTF?


I agree with the Pepboys analogy. It's more like it was a reject for a "future car" from Back to the Future II, though.  


I still think it needs a trunk mounted laser cannon, like some crazy "future technical". 

In Topic: 1/24 Revell Mustang SVO

06 April 2014 - 08:15 AM



And they say memory is the first to go, Tom?! ;)


Cool Stang stories! I've never had one in the family; my mom had a 67 Firebird that I remember well, and we had a lot of Fords, but for a family with two small kids, a Mustang wasn't something that was practical. Of course, neither was my Dad's 2-door Torino, but that's another story! 


That sucks that the Capri was such a dog. It sounds nice. I actually have a Turbo RS '79 Capri kit. What colour was yours? I like that metallic orangy-red  they had.