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Bernard Kron

Member Since 09 Feb 2008
Online Last Active Today, 12:50 PM
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In Topic: Slammed '49 Ford Coupe - 5-2 Update

Yesterday, 04:01 PM

I wasn't sure how the interior would go over but most responses have been positive. A friend of mine says it screams "Peg Bundy"!

 

I think I'm on the home stretch, after some more fabrication and a long period of foiling, including the visor. I made some exhaust tips by flattening and filing some aluminum tubing. The chassis and motor are completed, the grill and skirts are glued into place and I began work on the hood. Shouldn't be too long now...

 

Thanx for lookin',
B.

 

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In Topic: 1/25 AMT '36 Ford Coupe

26 April 2015 - 06:12 PM

Ok I think I understand now, the hood length is a model kit issue not a feature of the 1-1?


Also going back through the posts again it sounds like the hood / cowl issue only applies to the second issue 5 window, not the Dick Tracy issue?

Both versions are relatively easy to find, so perhaps Dick Tracy for the roadster conversion, and the later version for doing a 5 window? It sounds like they improved the fit of the top in the later version of the 5 window.

 

You'll use only the main body from the 5-window so it doesn't matter which version you buy. You'll need a convertible or convertible/3-window coupe for the convertible door top section and will automatically get the short cowl and matching long hood to go with it. The rest of the parts outside of the convertible specific pieces are the same for both 5-window and 3-window/convertible kits - i.e. chassis, motors, fenders, stock wheels, suspension, etc. The customizing parts varied according to the era of the re-issues but these wouldn't affect the hood and cowl situation under discussion. The best solution IMHO is to pick up the least costly 5-window you can get, probably the Ertl silver box-art car, and combine it with the current re-issue which has all the cool customizing parts from the original release.

 

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In Topic: 1/25 AMT '36 Ford Coupe

26 April 2015 - 01:16 PM

...I can follow the 5 window / roadster differences in the door, but am a bit confused about the hood. If they have the same door, and presumably the same body tub, why would the roadster have the longer hood?

Also for anyone who has this kit in hand, will the convertible bit work on the 5 door or have they been lined up with the incorrect longer 3 door body?

 

Besides the rear door line on the main body, the 5-window and 3-window/roadster have different cowl moldings which are part of the roof molding in the case of the coupes, and the doow-top molding with respect to the roadster. These in turn require different hoods because the  5-window has a longer cowl, yielding a shorter hood. Both kits use the same fenders.

 

Here's a composite shot of relevant panels from the original release instructions and the Ertl era 5-window instructions which might help visualize where the cowl length issue comes in.

 

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For this reason AMT only ever offered the 5-window as a stand alone kit. The long-door 3 window main body was originally offered as a 2-in-1 kit with either a chopped  3-window coupe or a roadster option, both of which had the shorter cowl (and thus a longer hood). Later on AMT released roadster-only and un-chopped coupe/roadster 2-in-1 versions, but never was able to correct the long-door mistake for the roadster. Both kits use the same fenders. Happily, the 5-window main body mates perfectly with the roadster cowl and door-top piece. This is the combination that requires the least work, only a simple short re-scoring to align with the 5-window main body's shorter door. The AMT 5-window main body is dead-on accurate with the door length found in both the 1:1 roadster and 1:1 5-window. Only the 3-window had the longer door.

 

Here's a shot of a 5-window hood with material added to mate with the shorter cowl of the 3-window/roadster cowl:

 

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Here's a side view of a roadster I built last year using the correct short door from the 5-window body with a short line scored in the door top/cowl piece to align with the 5-window door line.

 

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The current release is the first time that both the chopped and un-chopped 3-window and roadster options have been offered in the same kit. Because of the shorter door the 5-window remains it's own separate kit.


In Topic: 1/25 Revell '29 Model A Roadster 2'n'1

21 April 2015 - 03:11 AM

When I was a little boy we had a Renault Dauphine and it came with a crank hole and a crank in the tool kit.


In Topic: Slammed '49 Ford Coupe - 5-2 Update

20 April 2015 - 02:02 AM

Thanks everyone!

 

This is turning into a somewhat “experimental” project even though the basic build is pretty straightforward with a minimum of bodywork and paint issues. I guess the simplicity of the whole thing has tempted me into trying out a few ideas I had on the back burner.

 

On the simple and basic side of things the chassis is painted out and ready for the suspension and exhaust systems. The undercarriage and floorpan are painted in Testors Metalizer Gunmetal with black frame rails and suspension. The engine has been built and detailed. Nothing special to report here, just the kit Cadillac motor with tri-power and a scratch built coil.

 

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One thing I was concerned about was mounting the Modelhaus customized ’51 Ford grill. During the mockup phase I used a water-soluble temporary adhesive to glue it directly to the bodywork. I had shaved the grill pan to get a nice snug fit but I was concerned about gluing the grill to the paintwork when it came to final assembly. The paint will be matte gray primer and any glue residue would permanently mark the paint. So I came up with a pair of mounting tabs that positively locate the grill shell. I’m hoping I can mount the grill with only glue applied to the tabs and still get a an accurate alignment.

 

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I took another swing at the visor. I epoxied a piece of flower wire to the underside. This is a flexible wire used in flower displays that provides rigidity but is easily formed, which allowed me to shape the visor into a curve to match the roof contour. Since the picture below was taken I has a swing at foiling it but the BMF I had was starting to crinkle on me and I didn’t like the result. So I’ve stripped it and will take another crack at it using a fresh sheet.

 

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Perhaps the most “experimental” thing about this build is turning out to be the interior. I had originally intended to buy some Scale Motorpsorts upholstery decals. Then I began thinking about it and realized I could make my own and gain more control over the scale and pattern of it. I use Photoshop a lot and it has a feature where you can fill an area with a repeating pattern (called, oddly enough, Pattern Overlay…). There are literally thousands of patterns available as freeware on the internet so I downloaded a set of animal furs and skins, everything from bears and mouse fur to tigers, snakes and lizards. I thought a nice garish leopard skin pattern would go nicely on my primered, slammed, skirted and visored Shoebox.

 

The first step was to create a basic pattern and scale it to the size of the interior. Then I cut patterns for the areas I would “upholster” and scanned them into my computer as transparent Photoshop layers which I gave white outlines. These I laid over my pattern. The result was a graphic that I would print over white decal paper.

 

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Then I cut and shaped some styrene strips to form bolsters for the seats. Here is a photo of the basic yellow interior with the leopard skin decals applied before I glued the black styrene strip bolster shapes into place. One thing that shows all too clearly is the harsh, hard look of the glossy decal stock.

 

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And finally the completed interior. Besides the strong black accents of the bolsters, a coating of Testors Dullcote really tied together the surfaces and made the whole thing look far more natural. Not shown here was a test install in the light grey primered body. The yellow and black against the primer looks pretty sharp. I’m excited to see what the final effect, with chrome trim and glass, will be.

 

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So that’s it so far. Next up is completing the chassis and then the BMF. At which poin I can get to the relatively simple task of final assembly. It’ll be a relief to get past all these subassemblies and see this funky Shoebox up on its wheels and down in the weeds where it belongs!

 

Thanx for lookin’,
B.