I just wanted to add an important difference between the original AMT 3-window/roadster kits (both chopped and later stock height) and the 5-window that has caught me out several times. When AMT re-tooled the 3-window into five window form they also lengthened the cowl, thus shortening the hood. Over the years various resin re-pops of the separate chopped top and an entire chopped 3-window body have been offered. Unfortunately, if you tried to adapt the 3-window roof or 3-window body to a 5-window kit you had to add material to the back of the hood piece. Norm Veber at Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland did it right by offering a replacement hood along with the chopped top for the AMT as a complete set. I'm assuming that part of bAMT's restoration is once again including the longer hood in the kit. If I recall correctly, the roadster-only edition had the longer hood in it.
Other important pieces that disappeared during the 5-window conversion and making a comeback in the new release are the custom full cover hubcaps already mentioned, and the fender skirts which are very pretty.I have had my eye out for an original .issue AMT 36 kit on eBay for quite some time but they always get bid up to quite high prices so I have avoided them. This is really great news. I've always thought the AMT version was a better looking car than the Monogram/Revell offering with nicer skirts and overall lines, although the Monogram kit has a far superior chassis and drivetrain and a more authentice looking "LaSalle" grill option.
Yikes Dave! What a lineup! I always loved the pink one because it's such an effective use of the Revell kits to do something with it that isn't often modeled - the late 50's channeled roadster. And the green 5-window with the rolled pan and bobbed fenders is such a tasty standout. But I have to ask about the spare tire on the Tudor. What is the source for it and where can I see how you did it? Definitely an exceptional detail that makes the model. Big thumbzupz on all of them!
...Why didn't you repaint when the clear failed? Just curious.
Excellent question! I've had very bad luck stripping resin in the past and didn't want to chance it. Initially, since I could easily polish it out, I thought it would just be a matter of additional time to let the paint harden. So I set it aside and moved on to other stuff. I didn't imagine it would remain soft for so long. When I returned to it I thought if I was careful handling it I could proceed with assembly. But holding the model at odd angles caused glue joints to pop and other nightmares. Frankly, I just should have given up on it. But by then I was just pig-headed about getting it done. I've already made a mental note to build another one at some later date using my old standyby, Duplicolor Clear.