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Member Since 03 Jul 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 12:17 PM

Topics I've Started

Adding window trim/molding for modified roofs.

28 March 2015 - 06:36 AM

I think I have a plan, but am wondering if there is a better way. What do you guys do for window trim if you are modifying a windshield or rear window and need to remove the trim and replace what is already there? This will be on a 60`s muscle car, so the trim will look similar to this:



1/12 `67 Corvette Tri-power, Red and White this time

09 March 2015 - 12:27 PM

This one went smoothly at first, and then fought me in the end. But overall, not too many complications.  I think this one is my favorite color scheme. There is just something about all the red and white. 
 I used the wheels that I designed and cast from the L88 model. I added a period correct Pennsylvania license plate and inspection sticker on the windshield. A correct dealer window sticker was applied to the driver side window. All these were printed from actual items from the time period.  This is my first white interior, and I must have put on at least 4 coats of white to cover the black and red.
I just realized I forgot the air lid cover decal and the decal on the passenger side valve cover, so I owe you guys a couple pics yet.
 Let me know what you think!

1/12 `67 Corvette L-88 - Barrett Jackson`s $3.5 million car

24 January 2015 - 06:37 PM

I started out trying to replicate exactly the $3.5million `67 L88 Corvette that sold at Barrett Jackson last January. Did I pull it off? :)
It`s hard to believe, but this project started way back in March of last year. I started my work in progress thread on this forum last April.
So I am finally calling this "finished." There was plenty of modification on this build. The wheels were fabricated and cast. As far as I know, there are no other 1/12 scale versions of the `67 style rally wheel, die cast or otherwise. The exhaust from the manifold to the exhaust tips was fabricated using metal tubing and one-off cast resin mufflers. And of course, the L-88 intake, overflow reservoir, and radiator were all fabricated or modified to match the 1:1 car. The typical (for me) coolant hoses, alternator wiring, and relay wiring were added. I am not sure what that square box is on the drivers side inner fender, but it was scratch built from sheet styrene and hook-up wires. Chassis markings, auction stickers, and the battery labels were printed based on reference pictures I have of the 1:1 car.
I had a really hard time capturing the red color on this one for some reason. i must have taken over 100 washed out, blurry pictures until I got some decent ones.
So let me know what you think.






Dyes for Alumilite resins

17 January 2015 - 07:48 AM

I am experimenting with the dyes for Alumilite resin and a couple questions came to mind. First, is this stuff supposed to be as thick as molasses? I was squeezing the bottle just trying to get a drop out, and the pressure forced the nozzle off! (and made a nice mess in my kitchen  :D  :lol: ) It has more of a gel consistency than a liquid.

Secondly, it says to add this to the "A" part of the resin mixture. The color I am using I am planning to use for all casted parts in the near future. Can I just add the dye to the entire "A" bottle instead of adding the dye each time I cast a part? Or will it have adverse effects after sitting a while a few weeks/months like this?

So far from my testing, though a little difficult to work with because of the consistency, it is doing exactly what I hoped it would do btw.


Prepping resin parts for chrome plating

04 January 2015 - 06:33 PM

Some of you are familiar with my saga, trying to get my resin casted wheels chrome plated. I have sent them out three times to a reputable plater, only to have them return with tiny bubbles all over them each time. 


In my latest effort, I created the master, created a mold using no release agent on the master, casted a dozen or so wheels with no release agents used and heating the mold, removed the parts from the mold, mounted them, and shipped them off to be chromed. I have been using the Alumilite mold silicone and their casting resin as well. Both have been purchased withing the last six months. I am able to spray paint the resin castings without any issues, perfectly smooth. I can also use products like spaztix and have it come very close to chrome. However, the chroming always fails with the pitting, yellowing, and tin pin holes in the chrome. 


I have been thinking about this, and have been searching the forum. Even though from start to finish I am not using a release agent, do I still need to use some type of degreaser on the parts before having them chromed because of the silicone mold? I see many people mentioning Wesleys bleche white. Since this is no longer available, is there something else I can use? I really need to get this working.

You guys who are getting your resin castings chromed, what is the method of your success?