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Art Anderson

Member Since 25 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 12:31 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 57 Ford, as a 2nd Family Car?

Today, 12:31 AM

During WW-II and for a few years after, both Dad and Mom worked, at separate jobs, clear across the cities of Lafayette and West Lafayette (Mom was helping to support her elderly mother during that time frame) and so they had three cars (a '42 Desoto -- the one with hidden headlights), a '40 Willys 2dr sedan, and Mom's '32 Chevrolet Confederate coupe that she'd bought new in 1932.  I rode in all three cars, in a manner of speaking:  Got taken to Home Hospital here in Lafayette to get born (July 12, 1944) in the Willys, my first ride as an air-breathing kid was coming home to Battle Ground IN in the Desoto, and then as a Kindergartener, rode to school in the '32 Chevy--the envy of all the other kids on nice days, when Mom would open up the rumble seat, let me ride back there!!


From 1950 to 1954, our's was a one-car family, then Dad bought a slightly used 1953 Hudson Hornet 4dr (with the 7X Twin H-Power engine and Hydramatic, along with a new '54 Plymouth (Mom got the Plymouth--by then she was a stay-at-home mother with three school age kids) while Dad drove the Hudson for work.  From that point forward, my parents always had two cars.


Of course, West Lafayette IN, due to the presence of Purdue University and being the upscale side of our "twin cities" was a hot bed of multiple car families pretty early on--but in all of that, there were still couples (mostly older) who didn't have even one car--neither husband nor wife had ever learned to drive!



In Topic: Moebius `65 Plymouth Satellite

Today, 12:21 AM

6 sets in that box 


In Topic: post your homemade tools for building!

Today, 12:20 AM

I take a small nail, shaft size just right for my Mini-Mite moto tool.  Get some double-sided foam mounting tape and expose one sticky side.

Place a strip of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on the tape, then using a dollar store paper punch, make some disks.

Remove other sticky side on disc and stick to nail head.


Now, go kill some ejector pin marks! :P

And, with either a steady hand, or a simple drill press, such as Dremel's, that is a perfect way to do "damascening" AKA "engine turning" on aluminum, for instrument panels, scratchbuilt firewalls, etc.!  I've done that before, back in the 1980's, when scratchbuilding a USAC dirt track championship car.



In Topic: post your homemade tools for building!

Yesterday, 02:39 PM

I'll go you one better when adhering paper to sanding stick / block.

I use Scotch ATG tape which framers use to mount art work. It comes on a roll, is 1/2" wide and is a film of tacky adhesive with slick release paper on both sides.

Remove one release paper and adhere to the block. Press down, trim to size, and expose the second sticky side by removing the backing, Then adhere the paper to that; trim to size. Use on both long edges and the middle.

When the sand paper is worn, peel (with some effort) up the paper and apply fresh. The adhesive generally remains intact. I usually can reuse the same adhesive on a fresh piece of sanding material.

Or you can just add new sandpaper right on top of the worn paper with more ATG.

Art supply stores or Framers carry it.

I've tried that, and didn't much like it Cato.  It takes mere minutes to make a sanding stick, and generally mine get used pretty heavily--to the point of not just wearing out the paper, but often times I am using the very edge, which makes strong adhesion a necessity.  On the other hand, I almost never throw one away until I've used both ends on both sides.



In Topic: post your homemade tools for building!

Yesterday, 08:43 AM

I've come to making my own sanding sticks, using the basswood "lumber" from the model RR section of my LHS, as it comes in all manner of widths and thicknesses for practically peanuts (Hobby Lobby also stocks numerous sizes of basswood strips, BTW).  I simply cut a piece of basswood to whatever shape I might need in order to get into an area, sand around details and such.


My 'trick" (if you will) is to ensure that the surface of the basswood is smooth and FLAT, which can be done by putting some 400-grit face up on a known flat surface (I have several pieces of thick plate glass--perfect for this purpose) and sand the area flat and smooth.  Next, I cut a piece of 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper that will fit, put some gap-filling CA on the working area of my sanding stick, press that flat to the BACK of the piece of sandpaper I've cut out, and hit the glue with some accelerator.  I know some might ask "why not just use popsicle sticks?  My answer is simple--you can, but be aware that popsicle sticks tend not to be very flat or true, being cut from birch and while kiln dried, are prone to warping and twisting--basswood strip on the other hand, is kiln-dried before it's sawed and planed, which results in straight, true and almost always warp-free, and in the bargain, basswood cuts and sands much easier than does a birch popsicle stick.


In seconds, the CA will be set up, and all that is left is to trim carefully the sandpaper at the edges of the wooden stick, and I now have a sanding stick, custom-made to fit the job I need it for.  I've used this sort of little tool for any number of jobs, using them as "body files" in small areas where I need to avoid losing surface details, shaping strip styrene I've added for chrome body trim, and even as a very fine "file" to clean up mold parting lines on the edges of parts--particularly the edges of window glass etc.


Inexpensive, quick to make, and disposable when done using them!