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Art Anderson

Member Since 25 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 09:22 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Nasty yellow junk under chrome plating

Today, 09:22 AM

What is it?

And how do I get rid of it?

A day and a half sit in some Windex got rid of the crome but the yellow junk is still clogging all the details up.

All plastic model "chrome" is applied over a high gloss coating--that's what makes it adhere to the plastic (hopefully), and gives it that high level of "shiny".  In most cases, this clear coat can be removed, but only by using a caustic solution--sodium hydroxide, which is also called "lye".  If you want to get rid of that, a soaking in anything containing lye (up to and including Lewis Red Devil Lye--which is still avaiable in ANY well-stocked supermarket or big-box store.  Lye, also called "caustic soda" was for decades, the most effective paint remover, and it will dissolve the micro-thin aluminum coating we know as model car kit "chrome" in mere minutes.


It does take some "manning up" to use the stuff--what with all the politically correct rhetoric out there, but with proper protective gloves and eye protection, it WORKS!  I've been using the stuff for more than 50 years--just maybe I might know something about it?



In Topic: Brush and paint brand

Today, 08:11 AM

Good evening guys:
My question is simple:
Which paint brush and paint brand is great for brush mark free?
Thank you.

In all honesty, there are almost no paints that can be brushed on without any brush strokes (marks) showing.  Virtually all hobby/craft paints, be they enamels or acrylics, simply dry too fast to allow them to "flow out" (not since Pactra discontinued their "Namel line of 4-hour enamel hobby paints--those took a couple of hours to become tacky, fully overnight to dry to the touch!-- has any domestic American company offered modelers this type of paint). Humbrol enamels, which come from the UK are still this slow drying enamel though--not a lot of shops carry this line, but they are available online--not expensive either!.  Another line of paints is "One Shot", which is a line of very high quality enamels for professional sign painters (itself once an almost lost art, but has made a comeback in the last 20-30 years or so).  One Shot paints are enamels, in the classic sense--high quality, high pigment content, but very slow drying--24 hours or more.  But, with practice (IF the OS color you see is one you can use) they can make a fantastic paint job, be that brush or airbrush.


The same is also true of paintbrushes--even the finest, softest brushes will leave at least some brush marks--the higher the quality of the brush, the less visible brush marks will be--but under close inspection, they WILL be there--it's inevitable.  The best paintbrushes will be those made from natural bristles, such as Camel Hair (not sure those are really made from the hair of a camel, but that's what the call them), squirrel hair, and the best of the breed being Sable.


I've taken to, over my fairly long years of building model cars (started in 1952 when I was just 8yrs old!) to spray painting body shells, then in January 1963, got my first airbrush setup--ever since, I've airbrushed first model car bodies and hoods, graduating to masking and painting interiors, airbrushing engines, chassis and all the greasy parts--to the point that the only brush work I do anymore is fine detail, "picking out those little thingies" too small to airbrush.  Still though, I scope out the artists' paintbrush displays every time I am in Michael's or Hobby Lobby--and more often than I would like to admit, a new detailing brush follows me home!



In Topic: Johan kits - that good or just out of production?

Yesterday, 08:12 PM

It may already have been said, but JoHan was definitely the minor player in the age of dealer promotional model cars, and the 3in1 kits that spun off of them.


While it's fairly easy, I think, to understand the low popularity of virtually anything AMC back in the 1960's among the kids whom many of us were--they just weren't cool.  The same can also be said of those Cadillacs, even Oldsmobiles  (yeah, even Cutlass 442's were truly "Your father's--or even your Grandfather's cars--seemingly so back 45-50 years ago.


While many younger heads may be under scratching therapy, Dodges & Plymouths as model car kits were perhaps a bit more popular than their Chrysler or Imperial stable-mates--those kits really didn't set the cash registered in hobby shops on fire exactly.


For this reason, JoHan kits never saw the massive production numbers of almost every model car kit that AMT produced back then (the same could also have been said about much of MPC's product line as well back then!).  The relatively small production figures from JoHan meant fewer "Survivor Kits" today, while there is at least a serious demand for most of the old JoHan stuff today--even though not likely enough to warrant anyone tooling up new kits of most all of them.


That's my take, based on more than 50 years, in and around the hobby industry, at many levels, including behind the counters in a pair of hobby shops.



In Topic: Question about removing paint of a diecast model

30 June 2015 - 06:10 AM

Aircraft-grade paint stripper.  it's made for stripping paint from non-ferrous metals, and won't damage Zamak, which is the metal alloy used in casting pretty much every diecast model car.



In Topic: What grit do you sand primer to before applying color coats?

29 June 2015 - 08:00 AM

Personally, I have used 6000-grit polishing cloth from Micromesh for as long as those polishing kits have been in circulation.  As I tend to use lacquer primers, this gives me a satin-finish surface, which is, in scale, about as close as I would come to a wet-sanded primer surface on a real car body. 


Seldom have I ever had paint, either lacquer or even Testor's/Model Master enamels, thinned for airbrushing with lacquer thinner fail to adhere to such a surface-and in the bargain, I get a far smoother, thinner finish straight from the airbrush, requiring a lot less polishing to get a shine.