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Art Anderson

Member Since 25 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 11:28 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Panel seperation lines molding?

Today, 11:30 AM

I thought that all those panel lines were left off of promotional models because those lines are air brushed out in most old car brochures and advertising of the period.  I guess auto makers found the lines distracting from the overall flow of the vehicle. I guessed that the panel lines missing on kits was just a carry over from the  promo origin of them.


I have no explanation why they'd be missing on modern kits, especially ones geared at our picky adult market.

Quite probable that the companies making promotional model cars were having to work off of automaker-provided pictures of approved styling clays, which for the most part had only the essential panel lines modeled into them (hood, trunk lid, doors, gas filler door).



In Topic: How many Wagons and Woodie kits out there? Yer on yer own on this one.

Today, 11:27 AM

Originally, this 1953 Plymouth Belvedere wagon was a P M C promotional . They were made alongside a 1957 Ford Wagon which is the body from Jimmy Flintstone . These cars had no interior and came without back in 1957 without chrome parts or clear windshields . They were later sold in 5-.10 stores , ( Roses ,G C Murphy's , WT Grant's and Woolworth's ) as un assembled , usually retailing for about .98c.


This is a resin copy of the Plymouth . I got it from a departed member here years back and scratch built the needed pieces .



Except that promo is a 1954 Plymouth, not a '53 (had a couple of them when was 10-11 yrs old, and that was back in 1954-55).  Also, I don't remember ever seeing 1954 Promo's being sold in 1957, unless they were unsold leftovers with 3 yrs of dust on them.



In Topic: Dumb questions: Testors and CA glues~How do they dry?

Yesterday, 06:56 AM

The ordinary range of plastic cements, from pure liquids, to liquids containing a bit of cellulose, to the thicker, syrupy tube glue (such as Testors in the orange tubes) all are based on so-called "hot" solvents which actually dissolve the mating surfaces of polystyrene plastic (the plastic most commonly used in molding plastic model kits), which causes the two pieces to blend slightly together at the joint.  They dry (or "cure" solely by evaporation.


CA (short for cyanoacrylate) glues, commonly called "Super Glue" doesn't rely on evaporation to do its job, but rather it's a family of adhesive that goes from liquid to crystalline quite rapidly, triggered by a number of causes, most commonly pressure between the two parts being glued, moisture, temperature, along with the introduction of finely divided powders such as talcum powder or baking soda.  CA glues come in a range of viscosities, from the extremely thin liquid grades found in the checkout lanes at "big box" retailers, to medium to thick viscosities found in hobby/craft shops and some hardware/home improvement stores, to even gel consistencies, and most recently even "flexible CA glue" designed for use with fabrics.


There is a widely held notion out there that CA glues simply cannot, and should not be used for the assembly of clear or plated parts on a model kit.  However, I've been using a commonly available medium viscosity CA glue for a good 25 years for a great deal of model car assembly, and use that almost exclusively for attaching clear parts (windshields, back windows, side and vent windows) into finished body shells, as well as ALL "chrome" parts.  What is needed there, to prevent the "out-gassing" which leaves that smokey, cloudy film around the glue joint, is a liquid chemical "accelerator" which kicks a medium (almost always much slower setting) CA glue from liquid to solid in literally seconds.  What is vitally important with accelerators is that they not attack painted, plated or raw styrene surfaces, which many will do.  However, I found, back in the late 1980's, a brand of CA accelerator that not only does not attack painted or raw styrene surfaces, but itself is a slower evaporating, non-solvent liquid, which when sprayed on the CA glue joint, literally wets the surrounding surfaces, which prevents the vapors of the CA from creating that foggy appearance.


I use just one brand of CA glue for almost all clear and plated part assembly:  Goldberg SuperJet, which is available in many R/C oriented hobby shops as well a directly from Tower Hobbies.  In addition, a company, Bob Smith Industries, has produced since the late 90's the brand of CA Accelerator I use:  "Insta-Set", which comes in small transparent spray bottles (they package it in several sizes, along with offering 8-oz refill bottles as well).  This accelerator is a blend of synthetic hydrocarbons and aromatic amine.  Bob Smith Industries (BSI) also makes a range of applicator "nozzles" that slip-fit directly onto Goldberg Jet and SuperJet bottles, my favorite of which is their "BSI-345", a polyethylene (soft plastic) long needle tip (capillary tubing) which is perfect for applying CA's in tight areas, as well as tiny drops where needed.  Again, a lot of hobby shops carry these, which are also readily available from Tower Hobbies.



In Topic: How many Wagons and Woodie kits out there? Yer on yer own on this one.

Yesterday, 06:20 AM

Hubley also produced the 1960 and 1962 Country Squire wagons in 1/24th scale plastic.  Also, AMT produced a 1961 Buick Special station wagon in both promo and 3in1 kit form, as well as the 1962 Chevy II wagon.  AMT produced both 1964 and 65 Chevelle station wagons as well.



In Topic: Did You Know? Where Tee Buckets came from?

08 July 2014 - 06:30 PM

And yet ol' Woo Woo is still called the Father of the Tee Bucket. :P p118659_large1923_ford_model_trear_side_

And yet, given that teh most common definition of a T-bucket (hot rod wise anyway) is a Model T Ford roadster--Norm "Wo-Woo" Grabowski's car isn't!  If you look closely at the rear corners of the body, you can see the short flat panel at the rear corners, just ahead of the shortened pickup box, that tell the body shell's origin as a Model T Touring Car body that had it's entire rear seat portion removed (there was actually a body seam at the bottom of that short flat panel, where the two sections joined.