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Member Since 09 Feb 2009
Offline Last Active May 24 2014 12:48 PM

Topics I've Started

First time airbrushing and using alclad

18 November 2013 - 08:05 AM

I finally sat down to set everything up and start using an Airbrush. Rather than test on a body, I started with something small, a bumper that would end up chrome. I'm okay with the result, but I know I can improve. My setup is a garage compressor with a built in regulator and iwata moisture trap. The brush itself is the cheap 25 ez paasche. Excellent equipment, I know. I used walmart color place gray primer through the can, decanted testors gloss black and Alclad chrome through the airbrush. Here is the end result:


The texture is smooth enough, but it's the blotchiness I'd like to improve. The black base was shot at 20 and the Alclad at 15. I did notice that either paint did not like coming out even if the air was flowing. I didn't have the much paint in the cup since I was trying to waste as little as possible my first time around. Was the paint reluctant to flow because I was picking up air in the paint bottle or is that due to the cheapo beginner brush?

I'm assuming the blotchiness is due to the Alclad coming out heavier than it should when it did come out. I know it needs to be misted on, I am almost positive I was on the heavy side.

Critique welcome!

More Paint questions(Tamiya Acrylic or Enamel, 10ml or 23ml)

13 October 2013 - 08:35 AM

I've got a few Big T kits in the pipeline and I'm preparing the paint stash before starting. As I'm looking for the best price online I've come across a few questions....


1.) Enamel or acrylic? I know this is based on several factors so here's what's at play for me: The only acrylic I've used so far is Tamiya X18 Semi Gloss Black and I hate the way it goes on with a paint brush. Testors enamels have been my go to, but I'd rather just follow the instructions instead of trying to match paint colors across brands so I'd like to stock up on Tamiya paints. I'm also trying to push myself to use a paint brush less and less on small pieces and move to painting most pieces with an air brush. I'd like to put the days of "painting an entire interior by hand only to have it look like a five year did it" behind me.


Short version - Tamiya Acrylic or enamel?

Testors enamel - comfortable using/detailing with a paint brush, looks terrible.

Tamiya Acrylic - not comfortable with, better results with airbrush?

Tamiya Enamel - Any reason to buy over acrylic?



2.) How long do the less than an ounce jars last when used through an airbrush?


Ultimately I'm trying to balance out using the correct color with $ value. There are certain work horse colors that are used so much I know it will just be easier and less expensive to use general hardware store spray paints - Flat Black, Satin Black, Steel, etc. For other colors I'd like to stick in the Hobby world instead of just saying, "This blue is close enough." It will give me less anxiety to actually use the called for color instead of always trying to find an alternative, but at the same time so does spending less.


I know for a standard 3 oz spray can I can safely do one entire body + touch up, but how long will the non-aerosol, less than an ounce paint jars last if I use an airbrush? Two-three models? 200 years? What is the general consensus for how often certain colors are purchased? Is it better to buy larger quantities of some colors (10ml or 23ml for example)? I know there will be a lot of variables so I'm just looking for what other builders general patterns are.


Short version: How much paint to buy?

What colors do you use so much that it's more economical to just buy a can of duplicolor?

For colors with no alternative, is it better to just buy the 23ml?


Opinions appreciated!


Best way to polish final coat around details without removing paint?

31 August 2013 - 01:12 AM

I'm starting to notice that as I ascend through the polishing grits that I can't get right up to details without removing paint from the detail. The result is either there is a difference in appearance between the polished area and the non polished space surrounding the detail, or I take all the paint off the raised details.

Is there a tool I can use to use to get precise motions with polishing cloths? Or should I just always expect that I will need to lay another coat to ensure complete coverage?

Plymouth Superbird

11 June 2013 - 04:45 PM

Started this build a few weeks ago. So far I've only done basic body work and rear suspension. Plan is to use the inspiration as inspiration and not to make an exact replica. I'll be keeping the 440 stock, but using the rear suspension from an AMT Thunderbird stock car as well as wheels and tires, fire wall and a few more miscellaneous pieces.


Mock up:


Scratch built rear coilovers:

Deviating from Chrysler red:

Removed inner fenders and stock suspension points:

Turn signals and door handles are shaved, and while the 1:1 does not have this the side vents are opened. I'm trying to build a lower valence without compromising the look of the nose cone, which will be my first major scratchbuilding effort. So far it is okay, but I'll have to get it glued in place before I can determine it a success.

The only thing I'm not sure about it the interior. At first I was just going to glue sheet plastic over the seats to simulate an aluminum panels interior but I don't know if I should open up the interior bucket to reveal the rear wheel wells, as you would find on a car with all interior panels removed.

My last thought for now is in the name of sacrilege and pro touring to convert the head lights into fixed, recessed buckets instead of leaving the headlight covers as is and just throwing a black decal over them. Should be straight forward and not that difficult, I just don't know how it would affect the overall feel of the car.