I've been sort of putting this off for a while while I decided what to do about my membership over at another forum. In the last week several things have happened over there, along with the way they were handled by the mods, that have prompted my to "hasten" my permanent departure and relocate here.
Over in that other forum I have a builders string, this string contains many different projects with tips and tricks I have learned from 40+ years of modeling. Since the end of June, 2011 that string drew more than 15,500 views and over 800 posts. I will be transferring selected projects here one-by-one over the next few weeks for everyone here to see. It is not my intention to clog up or dominate this forum, and if the mods object please let me know and I'll adjust to whatever you suggest. But short of creating my own forum this is the next best solution to share what I know.
So...let's begin at the beginning, shall we?
This was about a NASCAR T-Bird I was doing back in June of 2011, and some of the internal detailing I do...
I pulled out some 20 year old modeling tricks on this car, the first being drilled window braces. Detail Master now offers a photo etched window brace set for something like $5, I prefer to make my own for about a nickle. Years ago I watched my first wife as she transferred a pattern for a dress she was making with an interesting little tool. I borrowed it the next day and used it as a drift to imprint pilot marks on strip styrene, it worked perfect. I took a small drill bit in my pin vice and drilled on the pilot marks and after sanding and painting I had perfect 0.10" wide window braces that were very close to the 2.5" wide braces cars at the time (1985) used.
My ex-wife never got her pattern tool back, and after 25 years it still works great. I shoot the plastic matt black so I can better see the pilot marks these days, my eyes are not what they used to be.
Another popular and fairly common practice is to make roll cage padding out of electrical srhink tubing, most of you guys I'm sure have done it at one time or another. I like the look much better than just painting the padded part semi gloss black and the older RM NASCAR kits did not mold padding in like they did with their cars from 2000 on. The gaps you see in the shrink tube will all be hidden behind parts of the body, and this being a short track car I only pad the parts of the car I may come into contact with in a crash. That's why you don't see the whole drivers side padded.
When I raced hobby stockers in the late 1970's we used water pipe insulation material for roll cage padding, it wasn't the best but it worked in the crashes we had on our small 1/4 mile tracks in Texas. Unfortunately as I found out later it is also extremely flammable, after a roll over that resulted in my fuel tank breaking loose and drenching the car in gas and catching fire. I raced in a set of coveralls that were treated with a flame retardant but it was no match for the dripping molten plastic of the padding and I got seriously burned on both forearms and chest. That was essentially the end of my racing career.
FresnoPeteMember Since 22 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Dec 30 2012 06:23 PM
- Group Members
- Active Posts 20
- Profile Views 640
- Member Title MCM Member
- Age 53 years old
- Birthday March 12, 1960
Are You Human?
Scale I Build