Over 100,000 views so far for this build has far exceeded any of my expectations. I didn't think it would grab too many peoples attention (other than Aussies and Kiwis) so I'm more than stoked to see that my fellow builders from around the world are taking an interest. It's been a long journey, longer than I expected anyway so here's a big THANK YOU to each and every one of you who have kept coming back to check it out. At the moment I am in a good build rhythm and the next update should only be a week or two away.
The next bit of work was on the aircon plumbing. It's made up of T2M copper wire, T2M 1mm nuts, T2M hose joints, T2M heat shrink tube, Detail Master hose connectors, Crazy Modeler hose clamps, K+S aluminum 0.8mm rod and some Evergreen bits.
The T2M hose joints in the back of the compressor.
How things go.
I had to remake the condenser because it interfered with the front bumper too much. It's slightly smaller than it used to be.
The plumbing route is a bit of a compromise and isn't typical of the real thing. The important thing is that nothing touches or interferes with anything else in the engine bay.
There was a few other things that I worked on that will help with future work on the build and I'll show them to you as the build progresses.
That will do for now and I promise the next update won't be 5 months away like this one was.
I also finished the exhaust system. It just needs some bolt heads on the clamps.
Another problem that needed to be solved was how to install the springs and shocks after the diff was in place. Due to the high level of difficulty when it comes to getting the diff into position it isn't possible to put the springs and shocks in first so I had to devise a plan to install them from the top after the diff is in place.
I put some holes in the chassis that are the same diameter of the springs. I just need to put the springs in,
drop the shocks in and the put the caps on top to hold it all in place.
The next issue was the rear of the chassis wasn't sitting still and flat. To solve that I drilled a hole under where the tank sits,
the tank will have a rod that will reach to the bottom of the bootlid,
into a bit of tube that I glued onto the underside of the bootlid.
When the chassis is in it's correct position it should stay there without too much more movement.
Hi all, It's been a long time since the last update and after some time away from the bench I am back into the swing of things.
I have solved the issue of the texture for the chassis. I found a product called Black Lava made by Vallejo, It's just natural stone mixed with a black pigment. It's water based you just need to brush it on and it cleans up fairly easily if you over do it. I used it on a reject resin chassis
I have put the curbside version aside and have resumed work on the full detail version. My first task was to fix an issue that I noticed during a test fit. The edge of the chassis wheel well was a bit too visible.
I glued a strip of Evergreen to the top of the wheel well with a large quantity of CA glue.
I used my Dremel and some sand paper on the inside of the wheel well.
I had an issue with the chassis flexing too much causing old joins to crack so I cut a channel on the back where the chassis rails are and superglued a thick stainless steel pin on the back to give the chassis some strength.
Then it was time to move on to finishing off some of the work that I haven't done.
I finished off the rear sway bar the same way that I did on the curbside version.