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David Thibodeau

Member Since 15 Mar 2006
Offline Last Active Mar 06 2014 01:19 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Chip King's "Green Machine" Daytona Pro Mod

01 March 2014 - 09:32 AM

And now the cool pics... Body/chassis pics!! I am also pleased that the front tires are mounted narrow enough that the front clip slides in place. My goal is the car can be closed up or opened up. Its on its way!!

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Thanks for looking!

DaveT


In Topic: Chip King's "Green Machine" Daytona Pro Mod

01 March 2014 - 09:31 AM

I got over some "mountains" this week on the Daytona. My goal was to get the car sitting on all four corners without the Jig. Even though the jig is the sole reason I had success in getting the stance you will see here.

First,
  I hooked up my 4 links to the chassis using RB motion rod ends and K&S Aluminum tubing. I also turned some coil spring bodies on the lathe and wound some wire for springs. I made sure that when I glued the unit together that it was at the exact level for my tires to just fit perfectly.

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I made sure my rear slicks were sanded perfectly smooth so as to not alter the level at which they sat against the suspension. At the same time I detailed them with good year eagle decals off the slixx drag goodie sheet. I also carefully painted the wheel beadlock with a black sharpie so the lock bolts stayed bare aluminum. Then I added a coat of future to seal them.

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Once I had the rear suspension dialed in it was time to turn my attention to the front suspension. I snapped a quick phone picture of the front struts just after I made them on the lathe.

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Next I made springs from wrapped wire and added them temporarily to the struts that were mocked up in their locations. The lower control arms were also made from RB motion Rod ends and K&S tubing meeting at the Strut cups. They were made with K&S tubing as well. Essentially the front end is completely scratch built except for the rod ends. I inserted #5 DM Hardline in the wheels, painted the ends and touched them to the lower strut bodies to mark them so I knew where to drill the struts for the wheel axles made from the #5 DM line. The tie rod end plates were milled from aluminum on my mill.

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Since the Strut cups are not hollow on the bottom, I turned some caps and glued them in place making them look machined in the first place. Hollow tubing was easier to drill for the Control arm rods.

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Once the front was done I slipped all the wheels and tires on and discovered all my hard work had paid off!! The car sits perfectly level.

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In Topic: Chip King's "Green Machine" Daytona Pro Mod

01 March 2014 - 09:28 AM

Recently I have begun learning more about the mill.. I machined the fuel tank for the front of the car out of some 6061

Dirk showed me how to mill a side of the part, take it out of the vice, file it on a flat surface (I use the plate on my bench vise) and continue to each side. It took me about an hour to get the part done. I used a small end mill to add the groove (I don't have any slit saws yet). I also made the caps and learned from Dirk how to add precisely spaced detail, or holes, or whatever to a round part with the rotary. Its pretty easy to do actually and fun!

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I also worked on my fab rear end for the car. Not everything will be dead on accurate to the real car. Chip ran a MW Rear end but no one makes one in 1/24 scale. Clay gave me this one from TEM. It will do I think. I used DM 4 link plates. Then I machined the hubs and filler cap. The hubs are not perfect but for a first try I can see what I have been missing. I will be doing more for sure!!!!

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The rear diff should look good hooked up to the RB motion 4 links!

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In Topic: Clear coating race car models. Should they be that shiny?!

19 April 2013 - 03:17 PM

I am familiar with those particular bands Harry. Being 48 [not a milestone quite yet] I am in the position to have welcomed a few of their albums initially as well as Zep and Black Sabbath. My Hippy parents had quite a collection of vinyl. If my post hinted at sour grapes let me say that my life being a musician has been NOTHING but amazing experiences that most would only hope for, and many nights in the company of ladies that just defy explanation and occasionally gravity.. I am very happy indeed when life is either wound forward or backward.

 

 

Time to grab that old Gibson off the wall and play a while.

 

 

 

Oh, and I WILL learn through this thread. I already have...

 

 

Dave T...... That clearcoat looks POYFECT...

 

 

 

Bob

 

 

 

 

Thanks Bob


In Topic: Clear coating race car models. Should they be that shiny?!

19 April 2013 - 02:11 PM

And for the last 30 years I've been been in the Cup garages from coast to coast, but what do I know.

 

Not everything like you think you do!

 

I built Mr Hendrick his son's winning supertruck and presented it to him in Oct of 2011. I snapped this picture. All those guys are fixed operations directors at his dealerships across the country.... It was a most memorable day for me...........

 

 

Think Rick Hendrick is thinking "too much clear" ??????

 

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And yes.... I cleared OVER the decals on the build because they were alps decals and I did not want the ink rubbing off over time......

 

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