Hey Curt, the Auburn isn't 1/32 scale, check out this thread for a little eye-candy proof: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/125494-1935-auburn-speedster-the-abysmal-lindbergpyro-kit-completely-reworked/?page=1 Looking forward to DSC14
I think the Chevy hood would be too short and not wide enough, but it's only plastic and if the Pyro Auburn kit can be made to look good (with enough work) then getting the Chevy hood to fit the Caddy shouldn't be as hard as fixing all the problems with the Auburn kit.
To be fair to Ron, the Monogram kit box says "Sport Coupe" in big letters (and referring to it as "Sports Coupe" will get responses specifically to this kit rather than their later 5-window), looks like it's 1/24 scale.
yup, looks like a clear lens to me...with an amber 1157 bulb behind it. I know Tamiya used to make a really nice clear amber paint. Drilling a small pilot hole in the back side of the lens and filling it with some amber paint just might duplicate of the look of the real thing (try this on clear sprue before taking a chance on ruining the kit lenses)
very clean, nicely done. one other small detail that can be applied to future builds of 1950's vehicles... the front parking lamp lenses were actually clear or milky white and they used yellow/amber bulbs behind the lens.
I have to agree with this! In a recent update, microshaft decided to replace the "open command window here" command with "open powershell here". I don't use powershell and I really wanted to keep using a feature that has been working fine for over ten years.
that is usually reported with no load and most hobby uses are done with gear reduction, I was merely posting an example. if RPM is a concern, you can search out other 3v DC motors with different sizes, ratings and RPM's
I was not able to get my first Lindberg kit motor to work either.... However, I was rewinding slot car motors long before I got my degree in electronics. That particular motor is a bit simpler than slot car motors in that it has only 2 field core windings (the wire wrapped around metal to create a magnetic field when energized) in this case a stack of "laminations" (term used in the instructions) assembled onto the motor shaft. Most high performance slot car motors have 3 field core windings, I have seen as high as 5 field core armatures but those seem to be rare or not popular due to bang for the buck. Wire wrapping armatures is just like winding thread around a spool, the main difference is that you have to solder the ends down once you finish, and that the wire length for each field core needs to be the same... both for balance and electrical reasons. Make sure the wire has no kinks in it, work slowly, wind tightly, try to align each wind next to the last one (kind of like winding a hose or fishing line onto a reel) as long as you can...this will become impossible toward the last part of the wire but it helps early on. This motor assembly will require some delicate soldering iron work and you have to remember to scrape off the enamel coating from the wire when you solder the connections to the commutator assembly (only scrape off the enamel where you need to solder, the enamel acts as an insulator so the wire windings don't short to each other). Try to limit the heat applied to the parts when soldering, if you melt the plastic parts of the motor, you're done. I suggest "tinning" the spots that require solder (the tabs of the commutator where the core field windings get soldered on and the commutator brushes) before assembly, this will make soldering go much faster and keep melting to a minimum. A little Vaseline or lithium grease applied to the motor shaft will extend the life of your motor but don't put so much that it contaminates the commutator. This is a lot of info...let me know if you need more.