I was just looking over the posts and noticed this question....all those models are 1/25 scale...this build started is 1/16 scale and I never worked that scale before now...in fact I have just recently taken an interest in building drag race cars when I followed the Pro Mod build of the XKE...for me that was a jaw dropper and pulled me into attempting the large scale, but with recent builds on the 57 chevy pro mod turbo it has inspired my interest to build that style of engine for these cars I have in mind. This Willys build has had such a bad start I would feel better if it were closed and an new beginning made...I just don't know forum procedures...in fact I don't usually attempt forums as I'm not comfortable with moving my cars around to photograph them...had one roll off the stand doing a move to photograph and lost all that work...L3
Hello everyone, I've had some medical problems that stopped my building anything since I couldn't use my hands. I do have use of my hands now but have found parts supply for the 1/16 scale car are not available. I have decided to change the build to a 1/25 scale and see if I can produce a car that will be enjoyable for everyone. I still want a pro mod build and like the looks of the Willys...so here is what I have in mind.
This car image was found on the Mad Modler site I was attracted by his building a Fiat Topolino custom car. This build will require me to alter the looks and the engine will be the hemi but turbo charged...remember the scale will be changed to 1/25 and I'm not sure I should start a new forum just for that build...and don't know how to close this forum...any suggestions would be helpful. LT
Just came in for a short visit as I'm having health issues that demand my time and don't leave me able to retain a long thought span for now....I do appreciate all the advise and suggestions...so to answer Comp1839 I feel it is best to build for fun. I gotta go now...
I'm sorry for the delays, but I'm still trying to gather materials and some parts for my car...too explain further I have yet to have the front tires that fit my front wheels so I cannot establish the wheel base even if I had the jig materials, but I do plan to start the jig construction the moment all materials are present...in the meantime I'm working on drawing ideas to define how the jig will look and what it must do (what specific dimensions must be held at all cost). it is one thing to build a jig that secures tubes on a flat surface, but another to position these tubes on a 3D surface off the table top...not being a jig/fixture maker it is a by guess trial and error construction...That is what happens when building only kit cars your entire life....now trying the real big boy stuff. I have seen modelers build from simple layout drawings (they make it look easy) but having build a couple of boats in my day I now how crazy things can look (twisted keel to bulkhead alignment)...and that hold true for tube chassis construction...so I feel a jig is the safe plan. Hope you all can bear with me and will keep you posted from time to time. L3
Hey fellas right now I'm burning time trying to gather materials for the chassis jig, so I don't mind cross chat till the build gets started...The fixture jig is really no design of mine since I found it on a site that makes drag race car chassis...I modified the design to suit my build scale and simplified some areas...again for my type of construction...the chassis jig holds to the centerline as the primary point of reference to all additional equipment...It hold right angle support to the centerline reference at full width of fixture which will be about 5 inches wide. it has an overall length of 10 inches to cover the wheel base and cockpit construction and past the rear end...but it doesn't reach back to where the wheelie bar will reach. The chassis has a base made of wood, and topped with aluminum plate that is a bit thick to permit some drill and tap holes...this also will make that part of the fixture stiff and sturdy for any other future use. the over all width of the base is wider than the metal plates so a sliding rail can be used to handle upright support for elevated structures. down the center of the base is a cut groove that is the centerline and forms a t slot when the metal plates (strips if you prefer to think of them as being) one on each side of the groove.
Enough on this fixture talk I'm tired and seems to confusing to rattle on when the construction starts (soon I hope) you will see it's not as complicated as this sounds.
Oh my wife's computer keyboard went out so I must share my keyboard and this means my only time to respond is when I get home from work...she is asleep and I can use the board to answer mail and respond to post. L3
My type of racing was sand drags... no tire burnouts since we used high flotation paddle tires with plenty of traction the idea being to get on top of the sand so you are launching from a dead stand still deep in the sand where you must explode coming out of the hole and get on top of the sand quick...the race is 300 feet long and it's over in the blink of an eye. Funny thing when I was getting the car ready to install the motor in my mind I thought would have to have hood clearance problems what with high rise cab and tall (8 inches tall) air filter system Ha the engine sits many times lower than inline six that was in the original engine package and 50 lbs. lighter...of course no ac, power steering, or accessories where on this vehicle. The real treat is watching the hill climbs...I saw a blown and injected hemi powered cj5 type jeep body on tube chassis altered... idle speed with the drivers feet on top of his windshield ledge to the center of a dune that had a real honest to goodness 70 degree incline and 200 feet tall...he stopped put his feet on the gas and exploded out of the hole and over the top of that hill with no sweat...most people trying to climb that hill take a running start from the bottom of the hill with speeds near 40mph and barely make it over the top...some don't even make the top. If you stall on a hill you can roll over (vehicle will always get sideways if you attempt to back down) so must turn around on the hill if you're sure it's a no go to make it over the top. Sand is a different world of fun and you rely on centrifugal force to stay up right wihen making a turn out, or spin the large holes created by the wind in the dunes...scares you when the vehicle slides down like your going to roll over then the energy kicks in and your stuck on the side of the hole going at high speeds around the rim. It's just fun beyond words to describe it...then there is the desert at night...the stars are so many, and you could hear pin drop a great distance. Actually I miss that when I think about now. L3
Chris, I have been lurking around and following your build for some time...you are most creative and setting examples that are hard to follow but will be fun trying...I have enjoyed watching this build to see the finished car, but you add more and then I want to see what else will follow...love your work. L3
Dave, I will build this car to ADRL (extreme pro mod...PX) rules. Now for a "say what" questions, but first understand my last participation to anything called drag race had no Nitrous (still used on propeller planes), roots blowers were two size...big and small. In the sand boxes I played in the big boys monster cars just taking interest would bring out these bad A's cars that when they pulled up next to your car...would make your car topple over on it's side if they punched the throttle. Yep I was one of those cry babies who couldn't afford to compete against that kind of money power. Mickey Thompson's fuel system alone, probably cost more than my cars building cost. So I don't know is nitrous used in gasoline only class?
I did want to mention the first posted image showing the cheetah with theme logo...that is my start of the paint foundation but modified on the car body will have an appearance more like this. (must image how it will be stretched from the front of the hood till the clock wraps around behind the side window. I have not developed Photoshop skills to the level of putting this design on the car body...perhaps someday. Oh the cars upper body i.e hood to upper fender edges is alclad chrome based with clear red top coat, and lower edges of fender to follow around the clock is a contrast color (still a wip) this will also carry across the front of the car below the cheetah face location. L3
By PSI is meant the screw type blower, I have the FPM 526 engine kit, but having to spend time squaring up the block, heads and manifold...nothing fits really well. I may seek another engine and switch the blower and manifold onto another long block engine...that is still a WIP search. I have some sheet metal coming for the jig fixture and when a few more parts are together I can begin to construct the jig online. My interest is Nitrous and blown combination which I'm not sure it Nitrous works on alcohol and gasoline or just gas. I will have to find the rules for ADRL and Outlaw Pro Mod as this will help me refine how to build this car to my taste. Thanks for all the info Dave. Mitch I too like the Pro Mod cars the moment I saw someone say they run Nitrous on a supercharged car...actually I like the idea in the real world to run Nitrous plumbed to directed the 750 PSI nozzle spray onto the intake turbo blades and spin a turbocharger into an almost instant boost mode...that way they could run a large turbo with little to no lag yet have much needed volume of fuel air boost. Need a big waste gate to control the instant blow. Larry
Dave I prefer having fun with the build, and will make an effort to build the chassis to the rules as that would seem correct to both...but for this build it will have the PSI blower and Nitrous Oxide which will take it out of NHRA class. If I understand this correctly. L3
Ha all this time I thought the revenge was a 1/16 scale car, and that would make it an outstanding build...I will have to find and re-read this build again...Mitch sorry for that miss information...I personally thought it was a 1/16 build LOL
Brett thank you for the search engine directions and will work on it later. New Zealand wow what a beautiful land you live on. L3
Mitch, black beards revenge is 1/16 scale construction by Clay Kemp and I followed that build and put on a disk (lost when I moved) like so much of my equipment...hate moving. There are a few you should check out like XKE Jag pro mod cut up a couple of smaller scale jags to make a to scale Pro Mod car and it came out very cool, and he even weathered the chassis construction...by John Teresi, and there are others who do exceptional work sometimes hard to put that kind of detail into 1/25 scale. Perhaps someone can provide the answer to a question...I have tried to look up cars on this forum...knowing the name of the builder and even the car, but unable to get a match on the forum search???? How do you use this search engine to find builds by a member on our forum???? L3
Mitch, and Cameron, thank you for the links and there are so many really fine builders on this forum it does make my feel the tension to get this right, which I know my capabilities and feel the ability is there, but presentation is the weakness...I have not built step by step online and must find some way to have my photographic equipment ready on notice complete with lighting. The process I understand but how to choreographer this ballet so no one has to wait till the next freeze thaw happens to see progress that I'm just not use too. All that said I will do my best and try to keep everyone happy with not too slow, and know it won't be too fast...lol
There are questions that have come up: I saw on this forum the simply stated rules for PM class and in those rules were no screw type superchargers allowed??? If this is true I must get another blower and manifold, for I have the FPM 526 hemi with PSI blower.
Just to be sure I need to find out if supercharged is permitted nitrous assist...seems to me I have seen other builds with nitrous on supercharged engine setup. Just getting tired and need to nap before work tonight. L3
Sorry tor not being clear, and will try to approach this from the bottom line...It's a question for myself and to all: what can if anything in anyone's opinion help promote interest in for now 1/16 scale (to me this is large...to some this may seem a toy size). For price since I was asked what would I pay...if a rather complete kit much like you would get from Revell, but hopefully with Tamiya quality...twice the cost of Revell due to quality and this just being my opinion.
But let me reverse this question and ask what should a modeler expect to pay for any kit keeping in mind parents are the ones that usually foot the bill for the young crowd and they won't pay out the cost of a real car for a kit.?
In addition to that bottom line, todays providers of parts and I speak of cars only, not meaning to offend those who build other models i.e: bodies, engines, or other related components. Provide parts that are less than well expected when you lay out what for me is a good amount of money and yet must spend a great deal of time not just filling holes or removing flaws...but squaring up and even filling to add material to bring the shape back into scale so other parts will fit on the existing component and look right. I'm not seeking this to become a flame, nor do I like to promote conflict so I'm not going to continue to add anything as it was just a question...confused though it may seem, and I hope to have made it more clear...if not there is nothing else I can add and must remain just my thoughts. L3