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    Kevin Kurth

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  1. NFL is right up there with NHL and NASCAR on the scripted reality scale. The top rung on the ladder of course belongs to WCW and WWF who obviously embrace it and have let the cat out of the bag, but one has to question where on that ladder other "professional sports" fall. Is it all rigged? of course not, there are too many people to have everyone be in on it, there's no way to keep every player and office staff on every team from leaking. Are team owners pressured to make certain decisions and influence their coaches to make certain calls to steer the outcome of the game a certain way with officials and refs there as the last line of defense against a rogue team? Can't help but think some of that must be going on. It's not a lip sync battle, but not all those mics are plugged in either.
  2. Some neat looking stuff being done so far. My kit isn't here yet
  3. Everyone buy some!!! Otherwise NASCAR kits will be gone FOREVER. If these two fords don't sell, no model maker will ever consider doing anything NASCAR ever again. EVER EVER. If I bought a NASCAR kit everytime somebody declared that we must or risk never ever ever having NASCAR kits again ever ever I'd have a whole pile of NASCAR kits stickered for drivers I care nothing about. If these don't sell somebody will float a NASCAR kit again in a couple years to test the waters again. No need to panic. I'll buy one, and do an Almirola maybe. Not going to buy cases of kits I don't want in vain hope that they'll do a Chevy next. Revell is not stupid. They know that Ford vs Chevy is polarizing, as is any NASCAR driver vs any other. They know there are Logano fanboys who will buy cases of these, and there are Logano haters who'll never consider it no matter what. Revell either already has an SS and Camary in the pipe, or these were commissioned and Revell has no vested interest.
  4. Plain and simple, looks great!
  5. Making bookmarks in your browser sounds like it'd work for what you want to do. They can be organized into folders for categories. I've got folders for model cars, trains, RC, Linux.... then within those folders I created folders for various projects like the "Model Cars -> CHP Monaco" folder has bookmarks for photos I found of late '70s CHP Monacos, decals, and other stuff related to them. In the "Trains -> Covered Hoppers -> CNW -> 4700" folder there are links to pictures of FMC 4700 hoppers, model info, decals, etc.
  6. It looks pretty good for being painted paper! Very convincing, thanks for the explanation.
  7. That looks really great. I'm a big Underbird fan and have always wanted to it. How did you make the window net?
  8. It's got all the right stuff. Big tires in the back, littles in the front. Can't see over the motor, exhaust dumps right by the window. Looks just right!
  9. How am I attacking anyone? Nobodys asking him to praise anything. Maybe you can tell me why its acceptable for you to butt in and put words in my mouth? Greg starts lots of threads about what he thinks is dumb, so I asked if anyone had ever hotrodded to his standard. I also wonder why he'd take the time to start threads about all the different ways people do things he doesn't agree with. How about a couple threads about stuff you do like Greg?
  10. On the RC bodies nothing, the body is the clear. I do back it with white, but haven't found any other coating necessary. The Createx paint stays flexible and is pretty tough, it rubs through where the tires touch it but it takes a long hard rub to do it. I think just about any clear would work on a styrene model, I'd maybe try Future first, but this paint is pretty tough I'd think you could use whatever your favorite clear is.
  11. I've switched over to using Createx on my RC car bodies. It sticks well to lexan, dries quickly, covers well, is a snap to spray and clean up. I've not needed to thin it at all. Have never used it on a styrene model but I can't imagine it would be much different. I can't imagine using anything else on an RC body now, it's great.
  12. I think most of them are 2x2 or 2x3 tube. The length is usually as long as needed to for the snubber to hit right on the front eye of the spring. Also make sure they are above the scrub line!
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