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ChromeIt

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    http://public.fotki.com/sumOldGuy/

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    Curt Esser

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  1. Great idea, great models, and great photos!
  2. I use only rattle-cans. The main reason is that I live in an apartment, and my "spray booth" is the outdoor 6 x 8 balcony so an airbrush isn't really an option for me.
  3. The old "metal-axel" kits are actually my favorites - especially the ones that were never re-issued. I think I like them because it's sort of like restoring an actual old 1:1 car, but a whole lot cheaper. Hard to find one in decent, restorable condition at a reasonable price, but sometimes I get lucky. AMT 1960 Mercury "annual" that I restored from an old built-up. This one is completely built using all the original parts, but I did have to repair both bumpers with bare metal foil: AMT 1960 Lincoln - this one I built from the best parts of 3 old "annual" built-ups: I did have to get the hood ornament from Modelhaus since it was missing on all three.
  4. 1) Was your introduction to modeling at home? Yes - well, I built them at home anyway. I discovered them, strangely enough, at a local record shop that was on my way home. The owner liked cars, and had a small selection of them for sale in the store. 2) From whom? Myself & friends 3) What kind of models (cars, planes, trains, etc)? Mainly cars/trucks 4) What did the person who introduced you to modeling do for a living ? Paper route & cutting grass at the time, I later became a carpenter 5) How old were you? about 12 6) About what year was your introduction? Around 1958
  5. The value of your car wouldn't be very much, since the rear bumper is broken and the front one looks like the chrome is bad. Yes, in good condition, they do go for crazy prices. But, the original un-built kits do too ($75 +), and even ones that are already built seem to go for $30 + I say go for it, if it's something you really want to build. Oh, and really wether the promo has a friction motor or not is pretty much meaningless to a collector - the important thing is the condition. Now, since one with a friction motor was more likely to be used as a toy, and bashed into things, the condition would likely be worse (like yours) so the value would be less...
  6. I don't have much choice, these days. Back in the early 60's, when I began modeling, we did have a very nice "mom & pop" type local hobby shop - which had everything including car models, ships, planes, model railroad, and slot-car stuff. In fact they even had a large ho-scale slot car racetrack set up just above the shelves in one of the rooms (the store occupied two storefronts) They also had games (strictly board games in those days) and doll-house stuff. Also, in those days, many of the other stores in my area had small to medium sized sections of model kits, including grocery stores, hardware stores, department stores, and even one local record (that's what music came on back then, before CD's and mp3's) store. But now, the only hobby shop that is local to my area is a Hobby Lobby. Well, there is one other local shop, but it is strictly RC planes and cars, nothing there for me. So, if Hobby Lobby has what I want, I go there with one of their 40% off coupons. If not, the Internet is really the only other logical option.
  7. Tom, the chassis on my '59 is almost identical to the '60 one you show. The main difference is that the '59 had no engine, so the underside of the engine is modled right in the chassis. Also, the screw mounts are in a different location, probably to allow for the opening hood and engine on the '60. And I agree - the modified chevy chassis you did looks good - I'd just go ahead and finish it with that.
  8. I have one of those myself, waiting on parts from Modelhaus to restore. It does have those same axels, with the grooves - the kits in those days were essentially the same as the promo, just un-assembled and with a few custom parts added. Yours is in fact a kit you can tell by the glue, and the custom parts. Promos were assembled by melting the mounting points with a tool much like a soldering iron, no glue at all. That is also definately the wrong chassis, the one on mine is much different.
  9. '57 Olds either 2dr HT or convert '56 ~ '57 Lincoln Continental (this is totally different than a standard Lincoln) '55 ~ '58 Mercury 2 dr Wagon
  10. Pics from the annual local car show. http://public.fotki....auto-show-2012/
  11. I wanted to point out that the recent re-issue of the AMT/Ertl 1953 F-100 pickup still has all of those original custom, hot rod, and welding tools parts in the box, although all the box art on all sides shows only a blue bone-stock version. These are readily available on Ebay for under $20. I just got one for $10.
  12. I have an AMT '59 vette here - no mold line on the nose, because they designed it with the lower pan as a separate piece. The instructions for the AMT '62 show the lower pan as a separate piece too.
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