Wow, the new site is horrible! It's arguably prettier, but pretty useless as a resource. I can't believe they took all the instruction sheets offline. I just sent Round2 an email expressing my disappointment and telling them that I'd probably buy more Revell kits now since they have the instructions online for my review before purchase.
Revell's awesome. Round 2 is good. Both are better than Academy. I had a 747/shuttle kit where the fuselage was short shot and a huge chunk of it was missing. I sent them the UPC off the box, the form with a description of the part, the number on the sprue and the kit#. After like a month, I got a box from them that was way too small. They sent the wrong part.
I notice that the instructions have a section showing how to cut the body, attach some alternate parts and fit it to a truck chassis/cab for a standard "straight job" dump truck. However, at the top it says that this section is for "nostalgia purposes only".
Does anyone have any idea why they say that? It seems to me that all the parts are in the box to do this.
I was thinking that it might make a cool dump truck on the MPC Mack DM 600.
Here's why. If you look at the kits that are available, they reflect the periods from which the kits were designed. (Revell Dueces with 1980/1990s Airbag suspension and Ford 302 for example, vs the earlier period AMT 1925 'T' twin kit) .
What if you want to build a car as it might have been put together in the 40's, 50's, 60's or 70's? Those would be four fairly different cars with different techniques and parts.
So you need to be able to have a discussion about what kit to start with and what kits to rob parts from.
'Traditional' is too broad a term, means different things to different people, and covers too wide a period to be useful.
If you want to represent a car built today, it's all moot. You can use any parts or techniques that strike your fancy.
It wasn't hard to do on this kit either. Just took a course sanding stick and sanded down the back of the grill. I held it up to a light and checked periodically to see how thin it was getting. Once I broke through, I trimmed the flash with an exacto knife.
Wow, I can't believe it's been more than a month since I last worked on this kit. Well, at least I think I've made some good progress in the last few days.
Did some detailing on the grill. Added a parts box winch and some tow hooks (made from wire).
I mounted the engine and exhaust on the completed chassis, and decided it is finally time to start some weathering.
First, I mixed up some cheap craft paint. I used about five shades of browns and tans. To thin it, I poured some Liquitex Airbrush medium into a small cup about 60% full. I then took a craft stick and added a small amount of craft paint to the mix until I got it about the consistency of 2% milk. I fine tuned the mixture with Testors Acryl universal thinner until it was thin enough to airbrush.
I wouldn't want to use this as a primary paint, but for weathering I think it works very nicely. One of the common complaints about craft paint is that it isn't very durable on plastic. For weathering I think that is actually a benefit. Mud and dirt are not durable either. They are easily wiped or washed off, so the the weathering will get rubbed off on some of the high spots from handling, it actually makes it look more realistic. You can make it more durable by mixing in some Future and Tamiya X-21 flattening agent (to balance out the glossiness the Future will add) .
This mixture will keep pretty well too. I used some that I mixed a month ago.
With the paint ready, I broke out some salt. I'm using both course and find salt mixed together in a small cup.
I used a small pump spray bottle (I found you can also use your airbrush) to liberally spray water over the parts and generously sprinkled some salt around randomly. Set this aside to dry overnight (or at least a few hours if it is a dry day).
Once the water dried, I airbrushed some dark brown randomly around (check some reference pictures of real vehicles). You only need to let the paint dry about 30min to an hour and then you can wet it and put on another layer of salt. The next day hit it with your next color. Each time I went to the next lighter shade, until after five times, I was at a light tan. About the third coat, I wiped off most of the salt because it was building up quite a bit. then I wet it again and added a fresh layer of salt on. Maybe this gave me a more random pattern and gave the lighter tans more coverage.
Finally, after the last coat of tan dried, I took a stiff toothbrush, and scrubbed off the salt. I rinsed the assemblies under warm water in the sink and scrubbed some more to get the stubborn salt off. You will wipe off some of the paint, but I think it adds to the effect.
Thanks for the heads up! I'm glad you caught that. I should have checked my references more carefully before making that assumption. Luckily It's not too late to fix it. (It's ironic because I actually use RainX orange washer fluid in my car, and almost went with that, but then thought blue looked more normal)
Thanks for the offer of reference photos. I actually found a lot of good photos of these trucks on the web, so I don't want to put you through the trouble. If I get stuck on something I'll shoot you a PM though.