Frankly, I give thanks to those who post their experiences... after all, who are we protecting if we don't put the word out - the business that let us down, or the other model builders who are considering sending an order... not very well said, but makes the point.
not a doc, but had some experience with a herniated disc problem - man, I know it hurts - walking should be one of the things that you should be able to do and shouldn't hurt as bad as sitting - I spent eight hours walking at a swap meet, but couldn't sit on the couch - P/T needs to focus on exercises to strengthen the core muscles that support the back - this even includes the lower abdominal muscles in front, not just back. Those muscles support the lower spine, not the other way around. Balancing on a large exercise ball forces those muscles to work - My P/T gave me pages of exercises - you have to tighten the muscles and make them work - not difficult to do and good results. took five weeks with P/T twice a week and then continuing another 6 weeks - some exercising for maintenance since then. A cane seems like the wrong way to go and my P/T never forced or muscled any stretches or twisting except what she had me do on my own.did . - Talk to your P/T about exercises - if it's a no-go, get somebody else
Charlie, yeah, the 210 Handyman kit is probably a selfish request - first car... now a pile of parts... to be a retirement project... the rest is a long story...It is good to see some other people making requests for 2-door wagon kits - I know a local club member who is converting a Modelhuas S/D to a 210 Handyman - it's posted here and nicely done. The 150 could be an easy two in one - Panel inserts for the sedan delivery, clear windows for the 150 Handyman. - don't know an easy way to convert the trim to 210 series... When 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevrolets ruled Junior Stock drag racing, any model or engine combination worked in some class - I suppose wagons worked because all that glass added weight on the rear axle...
kind of off topic... but... A 1956 Chevrolet 210 2 door wagon would clear every work bench here! interested in a couple of the new releases - not so interested in the Bronco but good to see it as a new kit.
just another way to do the same thing... Layout and drill the small pilot holes like Bill suggested, but drill the final hole undersize.. My drilled holes always end up a little bit out of line. Using a fine round tapered needle file allows adjustment in the final size and location. The plastic filings on the file act kind of like a depth gauge so the holes all end up consistent diameter on the taper. Replicas and Miniatures has a drilled visor in their excellent chopped Model A body for the 1/24 Monogram kit - I wonder if Norm will make one for the new Revell kit...
Hey Tim, Thank you for your excellent reviews - they always show me what I want to see. No complaint here.. The top and firewall don't bother me, I had other plans anyway. The rear suspension is just a preference thing and I'll use what's in the kit. ...and (should I say it) I would put a small block Chevy in it as well. I guess that' the way it is, we all want something different from the next builder - there will never be a kit that has everything for everybody.
Hey Marc, Every time I've been to the NHRA museum, the model cars have been one of the highlights. I also remember seeing some of your models on display as well, Always good stuff. It's one of those must see places in LA.
PPG, most other automotive paint companies, Squadron and Tamiya have a similar one part putty that is basically thick lacquer. Bondo makes a consumer size package for home auto body repair, - bad news - like a time bomb under the paint - Bill's got it correct. With our hobby, it can also cause harm under the putty - as a lacquer based product, the solvents will also work their way into most of the primers that we use. The solvents can make their way down to the plastic... it's like putting a drop of lacquer on the plastic. Art Anderson and Bill/Mr.Obsessive have educated us on the internal stresses in injection molded plastic. The solvents in the putty can loosen some of those stresses and cause the plastic to start moving around - sink holes, warped lines, sanded off detail popping back up ... yeh, don't ask me how I know... this can show up before final paint, during polishing, and months later.
Looked like a can of worms, but this has been a good discussion. Another variable is the paint.. the chemistry in modern paint products has a lot of variations - I don't understand it, but it's there. back to the days of basics - enamel and lacquer and reference to the PPG repaint manual, 1976 Enamel dries by the evaporation of the solvents in the first stage and by oxidation of the binder in the second stage. Reducer out, oxygen in. Once oxidation has started, it's difficult for reducers in the top layers to get into the layers below Lacquer dries by the evaporation of the volatiles - lacquer will remain more or less soluble. Lacquer thinner in one coat will soften/dissolve into the layer below. If a top coat is applied heavy enough, the thinner will go through to the base material... in our case, (without a sealer) it can get into the plastic. Some of the modern primers and paints that we use act are more like an enamel, some are like a lacquer, but most I've seen have characteristics of both.
Ten different model car builders will have at least 20 different methods for successful paint... none the same, results will vary, and what works for some won't work for the others... standard disclaimer out of the way - yes, I've had red plastic color show through Plasticoat t-235 gray primer after a couple of days. It looked good wet. Strange thing was, when I stripped it, the red plastic was lighter. With plastic from at least two different bodies that may vary in color, body work, filler, primer, time invested and a white lacquer top coat... A sealer sounds like good insurance and some peace of mind. The thinner in each coat of lacquer (Plasticoat) primer or lacquer color slightly softens the layer below. A sealer provides a barrier coat that keeps what's under the paint under the paint - that's what it's designed to do. It also keeps the top coat from attacking what's underneath. Sealer goes on thinner and has less texture than most primers - covers less detail than a primer coat and no sanding. No need to sand or prime over the sealer. Top coats can go directly over sealer (follow the manufacturer's instructions). I've painted white directly over sealer with no problem. You've got one important thing going for you because the paint and sealer come from the same place. I've had no regrets using sealer.
I've airbrushed PPG automotive sealer before lacquer top coats with no regret. - it's makes a barrier so the lacquer does not harm the plastic - finer grain/texture and less thickness than primers like Plasti-Kote gray T-235 - straight from the can, no sanding before color coats, and quick drying.