True - and also true that the drawing was an original Foose design that he did for himself many years before the truck was built. gotta have the kit because it's a cool truck! - everything that I don't like about '56 Ford pickups and a lot of things that I didn't know about have been fixed on Chip Foose's truck.
this is going to be one of those ask 20 different model builders - get 30 different answers - good news is what you have looks restorable Remember trying toothpaste in my youth - turns out Mom always got the kind with heavy abrasive - just fogged up the plastic. Still use the same toothapste and wonder why I have any teeth - Now it would be a good start for finer polishes on a plastic windshield. I've had good luck with the Flex-i-file #3210 Triple-Grit polisher/finisher stick from the local hobby shop with a final polish using Mequiar's cleaner wax. It seems to work best for a very mild mid abrasive. Take it slow - I've cracked the glass with too much pressure on it.
talk about rare...3408 with a brakesaver has to be way up there on the list for a highway truck. The brakesaver is a hydraulic retarder. It adds about 4 inches to the flywheel housing. Hoses, fittings, oil cooler for the retarder, things like that, larger radiator. If I remember right (know I don't remember it all) it was both a switch to enable the brakesaver and a hand valve to activate it on the dash. Clutch and brake switches to turn it off. With all that complexity, it was very expensive so somebody had to really want one. should be some info and images out there an the internet
I would like to see the 1956 Chevrolet 210 Handyman two door wagon. Although when I say two door wagon most people think "Nomad?", there are differences between the Nomad and the Handyman Revell already has the chassis in the Nomad and a some of the design work for the Del Ray could be carried over. Still more to do because it would take a full body and interior. I could see the kit coming with solid panels for the side windows to do the sedan delivery so Revell could get more out of the kit.. Yeah I know sedan deliveries had the shorter 150 side trim but many sedan deliveries have been modified with the 210 trim. For model builders, easier to sand the trim off if you want a 150 than to add it.
JB Weld makes a number of different products and several types of epoxy putty. Unfortuntely, JB Weld doesn't seem to show instructions ont their web site but there are youtube videos on the web.
Not sure which one you are using... so this may not apply
Some types of epoxy putty can be worked with water - no need to check the calendar, it's not April 1 - but check the instructions on the package
Milliput, Plumbers A+B and others can be worked with water and will even cure underwater. Just have a small disposable cup of room temerature water at you work area. Dip your fingers in the water to mix the epoxy putty. Apply it to a prefearably dry surface to get it to stick. The putty can be worked and molded with a wet fingertip. You want more than damp but not submerged. It's also a lot easier to mold the putty before it cures than to sand it down after it dries. The water keeps the epoxy from sticking to your fingers - some will stick of course but not like working with it dry.
Pictures of a funny car catch tank in its natural environment are rare. Most available funny car pictures are in competition or with the body down. Any pictures with the body up are just the front of the chassis with the nitro hemi...
The catch tanks will be specific to a certain car or time period.
Here are some places that may be useful for finding vintage funny car tech
Vintage funny car restorations - here's one - http://www.ramchargersfunnycar.com/index.html
The forums on the classic funny car board - http://classicfunnycarboard.com/
search terms - funny car catch tank, puke tank
sorry Michael, I don't have picture or a link.
The catch tank really varies with the vintage of the car. The Monogram funny car kits from the mid '80's have a good tank behind the roll cage for what was used then - the tanks have become larger as time and engine technology have progressed. Current top fuel cars have a tnk that looks like a five gallon paint bucket near the rear axle - plenty of room for a Jegs or Summit decal...
I like these threads because the more we understand about what we are building, the better and more interesting our models will be - great stuff here.
It's part of the crankcase ventilation system - the hose connects to the valve cover - there are some baffles that kind of separate oil from crankcase vapors in the piece on the valve cover where the hose attaches - the other end connects to the upper frame rail which is a convenient piece of tubing to carry what is left to a large vented tank aft of the roll cage on a funny car, aft of the engine on a dragster. No pump As mentioned above, crankcase pressure on a supercharged nitro hemi is enough to ventilate the engine to the tank. I imagine between round maintenance includes draining and cleaning the tank. The hoses usually have some sort of quick connector so parts can be disconnected easily for service.
Pumps are used on normally aspirated drag racing engines to create a vacuum in the crankcase. Lower crankcase pressure means less internal resistance on the bottom of the pistons - lower pumping losses equals more horsepower.
Plastic would be good. I have less trouble or hassle building with plastic.
Just got the Jimmy Flintsone roadster - good loooking body with track nose hood - will require minimal clean-up - recommended yes.
Have one of Art's All American Models resin bodies trimmed for '32 frame in the dormant project archive. It really shows Art's attention to accurate detail.
Front engine Dragster Torsion Assembly
Category: Chassis Components Part Number(s): 35300 This torsion assembly is a re-production as used in the ‘60’s front motor dragsters. It features improvements to the bearings inside the arms and new provision for lubrication. The unit dimensionally is 20” center to center of the arms. The arms are 6-3/8” from the housing center to the center of the 3/8” diameter axle mount holes. The housing tube is 1-3/8” O. D. x .058 wall 4130 tubing. The torsion bar is a ½” hex heat-treated alloy steel with the center undercut. The arms are adjustable by means if a 7/8-48-tooth serration button that press fits to the arm. A nylon washer acts as a friction-dampening device.
what you see here is from the Mark Williams Enerprises web site - plenty more chassis information there
The torsion bar is a steel bar inside the outer tubing. As the suspesion travels, the arms rotate and twist the torsion bar. The torsion bar is held stationary in the center so that it does not rotate in the housing. About as basic (and as light) as you can get.
not a pro - just anecdotal info on a couple of times that it didn't work out,
Clear is not the problem - magnesium is.
example one - TJ had a set of large and larger magnesium Halibrands for his Corvette - sandblasted the wheels to take them to the powder coaters for clear coat. The wheels started to grow hair before he could get them to the powder coaters the next day - ended up going with gray.
example two - talked to my friend Roger at a local swap meet - he had a beautiful set of clear coated polished vintage Halibrands in his booth - The wheels had some time on them after they were powder coated - they were turning black under the clear.
In the 60's, Dad always ordered his cars - pretty basic stuff, but always with a radio. However, he never ordered the outside mirror. The mirrors were $7 from the Dodge factory, but only $3 at the local hardware store. It kind of bothered him when the federal safety regulations changed and he couldn't get a car without the mirror.