thanks Bill - saved me some time looking - NHTSA is involved as well - kind of going through it now - just a few more pages to go.... for those thinking about sending a comment to the EPA and NHTSA, the instructions are in the first couple of pages - shouldn't have to tell anybody here that calling the EPA idiots in your comments to them is not helpful, the EPA and their staff that read the comments are people too - keep it intelligent and to the facts - perhaps the best comment and all you need is that you support SEMA and the comments that they submitted about the proposed regulation. That kind of comment gets noticed - especially if significant numbers can be generated.
Bill, thanks, that helps, I can search the Federal Register with those numbers. yeah, it's going to take a couple cups of coffee still wondering about SEMA - it's good that they have responded to the EPA with comments on the proposed rule-making - they could advise us citizens to become informed and also send a response to the EPA, but you have to read the proposal in the Federal Register know how to make a comment to the EPA - it's part of the rule-making process to create an EPA regulation.
so... is SEMA crying wolf? That's usually not their style but this press release lacks substantial information and doesn't back up the headline with very many details. It would have been helpful to cite a reference to the Federal Register numbers where the text of the proposed regulation could be found.
A+B epoxy putty - sometimes called A+B plumbers putty but available in smaller packages in the paint department heavy duty stuff - sticks, I mean really sticks to the plastic or resin - won't affect the plastic later like some solvent based glues or putties - dries hard, takes power tools (Dremel) to shape it After mixing the two parts together, the secret trick is use a little water to mold it to shape before it sets. The water will also keep it from sticking to your fingers - don't worry, it will dry and the epoxy will still set
Bill, thanks for the feedback on the Scotch-brite - I did the Scotch-brite prep on one of Revell's new NASCAR Fusions - they are made of some very tough play ready plastic - kicked my butt. It will be good experience to go over it again with cleanser to see how it comes out. Guys, thanks again for the information and the stories - no ArmorAll or WD-40 here
Good information - good to have the details about the specific products to use - absolutely, preparation is the key to good results - Thank you for adding knowledge to the toolbox I haven't painted anything in a while but have a couple of thing prepped. I used 3M 07745 Scotch-Brite. It is gold, finer abrasive than the gray, and is for 1:1 automotive intercoat or clear coat prep. It puts some tooth on the plastic without causing damage to the emblems. It also gets into the finer details. --- your thoughts?
Great review Tim, I always thought the open chrome reverse wheels were one of the original AMT Deora's best features - Was hoping replacements would be in the new reissue - but not too disappointed about it with all of the other things that have been brought back. The small diameter of the old AMT compact tires really makes the Deora sit perfect- but I know an alternative that I like. I've built two - and will get another. The first was an original issue back when it was the new Deora kit, Testors Gold with clear top - somewhere in time it was lost - still have some of the parts. The second was a close duplicate with automotive paint - I painted the original clear cover because it was too rough and scratched up to leave clear - 4 slot mags from the kit with Monogram low profile sports car tires. That one was among the models at the 50th Detroit Autorama in 2002 - the show where you did the photographs in your review - the Alexander Brothers were being honored that year - It probably still has the grease on it that filled the air from the pretzel vendor that was just feet away from the model contest
Both the Revell and MPC Vega funny car bodies are almost flat across the rear so trimming to the curve of the body isn't really necessary - could be optional if you want. 0.010" thick would be a little more than scale thickness, but 0.015 is a little easier to work with. - some Evergreen plastic strip .015 x 5/16" would make a spoiler extension panel about 8" tall and you would only have to trim the ends - one way to do it...
I had good success with Bill's method to clean up a set of Monogram slicks to prepare them for lettering with some old Shabo tranfers - the knife has to be very sharp to cut the letters off the rubber - used some white (very fine abrasive) Scotch brite for the final clean-up on the side walls. Used an acrylic semi-gloss clear to seal and protect the lettering on the tires.
here's the math answer... sorry, don't have the kits in hand for actual dimensions and assuming the Revell auto transporter is just a trailer with nothing on the chassis of the tractor... Need enough space between the cab and the trailer to avoid an interference condition in a turn. The fifthwheel on the chassis should normally be between 8 to 16 inches ahead of the centerline of the tandem suspension. The California Hauler has a sliding fifthwheel so it can be located for good weight distribution on the steer axle. start with the measurement on the trailer from the kingpin to the corner of the trailer It's usually 60" on a square corner, 96" wide van trailer, but the auto trailer may be different. Add four inches for "dip" Add the fifthwheel position ahead of the tandem centerline to the trailer swing and that will be the location back of cab to the drive axle centerline. Can be longer for the look, but that's the minimum where most fleets want to run. I'm thinking about 176 to 180 inches wheelbase. Hopefully the research confirms the numbers