Bill, thanks for the feedback on the Scotch-brite - I did the Scotch-brite prep on one of Revell's new NASCAR Fusions - they are made of some very tough play ready plastic - kicked my butt. It will be good experience to go over it again with cleanser to see how it comes out. Guys, thanks again for the information and the stories - no ArmorAll or WD-40 here
Good information - good to have the details about the specific products to use - absolutely, preparation is the key to good results - Thank you for adding knowledge to the toolbox I haven't painted anything in a while but have a couple of thing prepped. I used 3M 07745 Scotch-Brite. It is gold, finer abrasive than the gray, and is for 1:1 automotive intercoat or clear coat prep. It puts some tooth on the plastic without causing damage to the emblems. It also gets into the finer details. --- your thoughts?
Great review Tim, I always thought the open chrome reverse wheels were one of the original AMT Deora's best features - Was hoping replacements would be in the new reissue - but not too disappointed about it with all of the other things that have been brought back. The small diameter of the old AMT compact tires really makes the Deora sit perfect- but I know an alternative that I like. I've built two - and will get another. The first was an original issue back when it was the new Deora kit, Testors Gold with clear top - somewhere in time it was lost - still have some of the parts. The second was a close duplicate with automotive paint - I painted the original clear cover because it was too rough and scratched up to leave clear - 4 slot mags from the kit with Monogram low profile sports car tires. That one was among the models at the 50th Detroit Autorama in 2002 - the show where you did the photographs in your review - the Alexander Brothers were being honored that year - It probably still has the grease on it that filled the air from the pretzel vendor that was just feet away from the model contest
Both the Revell and MPC Vega funny car bodies are almost flat across the rear so trimming to the curve of the body isn't really necessary - could be optional if you want. 0.010" thick would be a little more than scale thickness, but 0.015 is a little easier to work with. - some Evergreen plastic strip .015 x 5/16" would make a spoiler extension panel about 8" tall and you would only have to trim the ends - one way to do it...
I had good success with Bill's method to clean up a set of Monogram slicks to prepare them for lettering with some old Shabo tranfers - the knife has to be very sharp to cut the letters off the rubber - used some white (very fine abrasive) Scotch brite for the final clean-up on the side walls. Used an acrylic semi-gloss clear to seal and protect the lettering on the tires.
here's the math answer... sorry, don't have the kits in hand for actual dimensions and assuming the Revell auto transporter is just a trailer with nothing on the chassis of the tractor... Need enough space between the cab and the trailer to avoid an interference condition in a turn. The fifthwheel on the chassis should normally be between 8 to 16 inches ahead of the centerline of the tandem suspension. The California Hauler has a sliding fifthwheel so it can be located for good weight distribution on the steer axle. start with the measurement on the trailer from the kingpin to the corner of the trailer It's usually 60" on a square corner, 96" wide van trailer, but the auto trailer may be different. Add four inches for "dip" Add the fifthwheel position ahead of the tandem centerline to the trailer swing and that will be the location back of cab to the drive axle centerline. Can be longer for the look, but that's the minimum where most fleets want to run. I'm thinking about 176 to 180 inches wheelbase. Hopefully the research confirms the numbers
Jesse is on to something... hope you all noticed that the Roofer's Toy has a longer wheelbase and the body is more aero than the Revell '57 Chevy Pro Sportsman... Pro Mod started as an exhibition class with a few 1955 and 1957 Chevy's with real Chevy steel bodies on real Chevy frames - kind of an outlaw run what you brung deal. Carburetors and gasoline, but lots of cubic inches. As it evolved into a real racing class, later model cars with tube frames and plastic bodies started showing up. To be competitive, the shoe-box Chevies also started changing. Somebody figured out a modified McEwen funny car body or something similar would work realty well... put some doors on it, open up the front end - yep, that'll work - and then things have changed from there... The Revell sportsman kit represents something that is somewhere between the early stock bodied cars and the aero bodies Like Roofer's Toy that came later - Don't get me wrong, the early cars are still cool - saw the Ron Harding Movers stock bodied '57 run 7.35 @ 192 MPH at SIR - beyond impressive. If your looking for a Top Sportsman 1957 Chevrolet, the Revell kit is the way to go - If you want the later, aero 1957 Chevrolet, (without having the kits in hand to confirm) it looks like the McEwen funny car body on a lengthened Revell Pro Sportsman chassis would be a good place to start.
Hey Curt, I can't see it in the picture, - is it still called Dull Aluminum? I haven't been able to find it around here, It has been my go to for years and also works as a good base under the Testors metallizers Thanks, Steve Sounds like I need to check out the other suggestions as well.