Mike, I'm with you on that - paint or primer - a couple of light coats, let them get tacky and gradually apply wetter coats so the paint smooths out. Even with my favorite Plasti-Kote T-235 sandable gray primer and older kits plastic, I could get light crazing if the first coats were too wet. Plasti-Kote has a lot of texture so I want to try some Duplicolor primer-sealer but will take it slow. There are a couple of kits that will make donations to the learning experience.
for anybody considering this - so... drill falls out of the vise - it will happen because a hand drill is not made to go in a vise - it's still running and bouncing around on the floor... had it happen... try to catch drill, hit head on vise... wasn't worth it The rotating part catches the sharp end of the tool and pitches it at a fairly good speed - who knows where - hopefully away from the operator - and gravity still works so it's going to land someplace after it's hits a couple of things - unless it's sticking in something. Even with a lathe, something like a hand held file can hit one of the jaws on the chuck when it's turning and throw the pointy handle end back at whoever is holding it - always use a handle on a file... it won't hurt as much. Plenty of good resources mentioned above - Reconsider proper tools, learning how to use them, and proper safety procedures around sharp tools and moving parts
I don't mean to be too critical, but that sounds way too scary... A drill in a vise with a chisel - too much opportunity for an injury when things go badly. That is some experience speaking... It sounds like you have the basics of a wood shop lathe (minus a place to rest the tool) but are trying to do machine work which would be done on a metal lathe. Neither the vise holding the drill or holding the tools in your hand will offer the stability that you need to accomplish acceptable results. The chuck on metal lathe tightens down on the part the part and the cutting tool is securely fastened in the tool holder - so the machining can be controlled and nothing comes loose. First place to look is at some you tube videos on metal turning - everything should be available from miniature machining to stuff for battleships. Consider a community college course if that's available, or check in with a local machinist or hobbyist that can get things started.
Tim, thanks for the tips on the roof - it looks good - I have to agree it captures the "look" correctly and that's what I would go for also. A C4 behind a flathead is perfectly acceptable - been around since the '80's when the flatheads started coming back- see Flat-O-Matic http://www.flat-o.com/carproducts/flatomatic.htm. They also have a kit for an S10 5-sped with a flathead. The finished model is in the way cool class for sure.
Round 2 is doing a great job on the reissues that I've seen, I like them and I'm not looking for a high level of detail when I buy one. It is unlikely that the kit manufacturers in the 60's expected the product to last 50 years - but it's good that they have. Would any new kit last that long? With the resources that the kit manufacturers have available, more reissues in the current style and a couple of new kits would be good for me.
Mark, This is way cool and I really enjoyed your WIP. I had forgotten about these big Monte Carlos in NASCAR and learned a lot from your build thread. These cars are huge! The local museum has one in Petty colors so you got me thinking...
agreed - definitely a must see - I left wishing I had two days instead of two hours... first time thru was more like a chance to find out what to see on the next trip. great pics, thanks for the photo tour
Gerry, that brought back a lot of memories - thank you for the good trip through the time machine - lot more cars than my last stop there - it is in an old Montana state prison and used to be the original Towe Ford Museum.
I also noticed, you had a good lead, but didn't Revell have more then one GTO out there... I seem to remember the Monogram '69 in a Revell box... but I also think the Rochester tri-power has been in several other recent Revell kits that escape me at the moment. anyway, back to the topic
The Rochester 2 barrels are in the tri-power set in several recent Revell kits - the best GM 2 barrel out there in a kit - the Merc comes to mind and the 1959 Chevrolet as noted above, possibly the 66 GTO? - Da - da duh - drama note - they seem to be missing the base plate on the bottom of the carb unless you count the raised area on the manifold... easy enough the fabricate the missing base plate, but be aware
Quote - I'm building the chanelled version of the kit. I was surprised when I went to attach the interior floor on to the chassis. I thought the floor would sit flush with the frame rails. They do not. The parts look correct, yet the floor pan sits just slightly above the flame rails. Test fitting everything in to the body she still looks correct. Is this the way it should be? Or did I goof up and glue in the wrong center frame member? I suspect I used the right one because how the two pieces come together in the rear mounts too. The molded in rear mounts also make it impossible to mount the floor pan flush with the frame rails. R Scott, Yes,, that's the way the kit builds with the floor spaced above the frame rails...to me, the interior also looks a little shallow because the floorpan is too high in the body in my project on the bench, I cut the tops off the ladder bar mounts on the transmission crossmember flush with the top of the frame so the floor pan would sit on the frame. I added a small square of sheet plastic to box in the top of the ladder bar mounts and give the ladder bars something to attach to. The same modification could be made on the rear mounts but I just enlarged the hole in the floorpan so it fit over the pins on the chassis. These are one way to do it and "don't look too close" Engineering fixes. Now I will add a strip of material to the bottom of the interior panels. Once everything is flush with the top of the frame, it opens up possibilities for other Model A bodies... In the real world, the floorpan sits on the top of the frame rails with a piece webbing or strips of leather to separate the fame and body for noise isolation. It gets trickier because the model A floorpan is flat and the top of a '32 frame has a slight curve. Several solutions - one, cut a wood spacer, flat on top, curved on the bottom tapering to zero thickness on the ends. two, use the '32 floorpan in the Model A body. three, Brookville (and probably others) make a fabricated '32 hot rod frame with a flat top for the model A floorpan - or you can get your Brookville body with a '32 floorpan already installed. Hope this helps, S/P