Starting with he excellent information from Bill, Pete, Steve - I'm not aware of wax being used on the top show cars - they live a charmed life.and most waxes will take the shine down a bit. Polish yes, Glaze yes, wax no - On a driver, wax provides a level of protection for the paint and is worthwhile. My go to's are Mequiers' cleaner wax very gently for Testors Model Master paints - that's about as strong abrasive as you want to go with Testor's. - Jsut like Bill said For automotive paints, it's Mother's California Gold Micro Polishing Glaze - it's step #2 in their three part system.- no wax For heavier cutting, it's Ditzler/PPG DRX25 polishing compound (finish and rub). It's a machine compound, but the finer abrasive works great on a model Two more points - The best paint jobs, and my results were due to good fortune rather than skill - were paint jobs that came out so good that they didn't need to be polished - polishing that paint would have introduced a chance for mistakes and would not have improved the shine. It's something to try for If you ask 20 model builders about paint or polishing, you'll get at least 25 different answers... Some will only work for one person, some won't work at all no matter how much effort goes into it... Best to try a couple different methods and see what works for you
Shoe Goo - not sure where I heard about it, but it works - very strong adhesive when dry - I just hold the tires together and start with a little inside the tire in a couple of places and add more over the next several days - give it some time to cure and good to go - any that gets on the outside of the tread can be sanded off pretty easily - might give it a try on a couple of tires that you don't care about to experiment a bit. 3M Plastic Emblem and Trim is also a good adhesive
The parts sellers have made my searches so long that I don't even look at ebay any more... I could really use a button on ebay that would allow searches to ignore sellers with over 1000 (pick a number) items.
don't think so, but some come closer than others - almost close enough to say yes... The 1/16 Aurora funny cars (except the bodies which were designed separately) Fujimi Enthusiast series full detail kits Some of the early 1960's Revell kits - a lot of the kit pieces were pantographed directly from the real parts, probably in a couple of stages - I wish that I had spent more time with Bob Paeth to get those stories
Southern Motorsports Hobbies has the Shirley Muldowney, English Leather Ed McCullough, Mr.Norm's '73 Charger, and Arnie Beswick '69 Super Judge - 5 bucks a sheet - Their shipping charges hurt but at that price, it might be OK. Some of the Quartermile Legend sets have a separate grille that is very nice along with the decal placement sheet - the grille and placement sheet were not included with the two decals that I purchased from Southern Motorsports. Don't know if QML made them that way... No complaint, got what I needed hope this helps
"Roll tape" is a masking trick that helps control a fogged or blended line - stick the tape to the body above the orange area with the edge lifted where you want the fogged line. Spray from a direction that allows the paint to get under the raised edge but not up to where the tape is stuck. Experiment on something similar and the results will guide you to techniques to get the fade you want by varying how much the edge is raised, angle the paint is sprayed... it's an old technique Speed City Resin has a cogged blower belt.
thanks Bill - saved me some time looking - NHTSA is involved as well - kind of going through it now - just a few more pages to go.... for those thinking about sending a comment to the EPA and NHTSA, the instructions are in the first couple of pages - shouldn't have to tell anybody here that calling the EPA idiots in your comments to them is not helpful, the EPA and their staff that read the comments are people too - keep it intelligent and to the facts - perhaps the best comment and all you need is that you support SEMA and the comments that they submitted about the proposed regulation. That kind of comment gets noticed - especially if significant numbers can be generated.
Bill, thanks, that helps, I can search the Federal Register with those numbers. yeah, it's going to take a couple cups of coffee still wondering about SEMA - it's good that they have responded to the EPA with comments on the proposed rule-making - they could advise us citizens to become informed and also send a response to the EPA, but you have to read the proposal in the Federal Register know how to make a comment to the EPA - it's part of the rule-making process to create an EPA regulation.
so... is SEMA crying wolf? That's usually not their style but this press release lacks substantial information and doesn't back up the headline with very many details. It would have been helpful to cite a reference to the Federal Register numbers where the text of the proposed regulation could be found.
A+B epoxy putty - sometimes called A+B plumbers putty but available in smaller packages in the paint department heavy duty stuff - sticks, I mean really sticks to the plastic or resin - won't affect the plastic later like some solvent based glues or putties - dries hard, takes power tools (Dremel) to shape it After mixing the two parts together, the secret trick is use a little water to mold it to shape before it sets. The water will also keep it from sticking to your fingers - don't worry, it will dry and the epoxy will still set