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Muncie

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    Pacific Wonderland
  • Full Name
    Steve Payne

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  1. Interesting picture. Notice the purple anodized rims on the front wheels - leftover from Kenny Goodell. Steve McGee only ran the wedge for a couple of races and then removed it. Too much hassle to work on the car for basically no performance gain.
  2. this may help - a good Freightliner discussion here -
  3. Sorry, I can't recall right off which kits have the Hendrickson suspension... Odd place for it but maybe the Kenworth T600... there are probably others.. The walking beam is a two axle suspension. https://hendrickson-intl.com/Truck/Vocational/RT-RTE A pusher non-drive axle ahead of the tandem could be added. For tri-drive, see Bill72sj's beautiful Freightliner - looks like a four spring with an additional spring suspension for the third axle.
  4. Not the final answer, but here's more information. Wikipedia says the Payhauler curb weight is 36 tons (86 tons loaded). The normal weight capacity for an axle with 4 tires is 20,000 pounds - but it was a little less on most of the trailers that were around at that time. - let's say 18,000 pounds per axle for this heavy duty application. But the axles also have to carry the weight of the trailer. I think what we are not seeing in these pictures is the dolly at the front of the trailer that distributes the load between the dolly and the rear of the tractor. Here's another picture that shows the dolly. Three axles at the rear of the trailer, two axles on the dolly, plus two drive axles on the tractor. Since this truck will have some off highway miles, I'd probably go with a tractor kit that has the Hendrickson walking beam rear suspension rather than a four spring or air ride. hope this helps
  5. pretty cars, but I agree with those that have said demand would not cover the expense of bringing these to production They aren't as close the the 1955-57 Chevrolets as they look - so pretty much all new tools would be required for the kits and no way to combine tooling for one make to another. Wheelbase, engine and chassis are also different 1955-57 Chevrolet wheelbase 115" 1955 Buick wheel base: Special, Century - 122" Super, Roadmaster - 127" 1955 Oldsmobile 88 - 122" Oldsmobile 98 - 126" -- there may be more... 1955 Pontiac 122", there may be other wheelbases I doubt that the 122" wheelbase chassis have many common parts between Buick Pontiac and Oldsmobile. GM didn't work that way then. In the end, I'd rather see something newer or something else that would have a longer life in production for the next generation of model builders.
  6. Steve, Great tip on the boots - I have a couple of MAD distributors that I haven't used - was wondering what that extra material was for. Larger hole means I won't break as many drill bits.
  7. I was drafting this when Steve was posting I defer to his experience and knowledge. The models that he has posted show his techniques work. In fact, I was going to suggest looking at some of his how-to posts for using Bare Metal foil. Here are my thoughts --- I'm with you - CA doesn't give me a comfortable feeling for adding detail bits. I have difficulty controlling CA and accidents will always cause damage in the most visible places. How a drop of CA can find it's way to the top of a painted hood across the work bench is a mystery. So, this is a job where I like to use a clear windshield adhesive - Micro Kristal Clear from Microscale is a good one. It's easy to apply where it is needed with the tip of a toothpick. It won't damage paint and can be cleaned up easily from places where it is not wanted. Kristal Clear is a little bit tacky so the part can be moved to position it. It will work on anything I see in the picture. Most hobby shops carry it. Drill holes in the engine with a small drill bit (#72) in a pin vise for the plug end of the wire. The hole will hold the wires in place. Install the plug wires with a little extra curve to simulate the way gravity bends a real plug wire.
  8. No word from Car-Tech yet on the pre-order, but I've received the two books that I ordered with it - so I know I'm on the list. patience, patience
  9. Alan, I am extremely honored by your gratitude. You built something that had been on the shelf for way too long. I am grateful to you for putting it to good use. This is beautiful, the color absolutely pops and the whitewalls are the missing part from the original kit that makes it come to life. Well done. Looking forward to meeting down the road. Steve
  10. two thoughts for less than a penny - and that may be all they are worth. You've probably already looked, but it's worth mentioning - for whatever car you are building, if it's an early Ford, a Mopar beast or a tri-five Chevy..., darn near everything has at least one forum on the internet like this one for your car. There will be people that have already been where you are and have figured out the good parts or bad and they will post their stories. The answers may be two clicks of the mouse away. Probably a good place to ask questions. Most reliable manufacturers have good tech support - just a toll free call or email away. The last thing they want is upset customers spreading bad words about their products so they will gladly get you headed in the right direction. It's not a knock on anybody that's been there, but cooling systems are one area where the aftermarket technology and parts are changing/improving rapidly.
  11. 1/16" diameter rod - cut to length - best to use a cutoff wheel on a Dremel - the hobby shop steel rod will damage cutting pliers. -- or use brass, and file the end smooth so it doesn't damage the wheel. The hobby shops and ACE hardware stores around here carry both.
  12. A scoop that is almost good enough is in the Monogram 1966 Malibu Street Rat. It measures 1-5/16" wide, 1-23/32" long and 1/4" tall. I think the base part needs to be a little taller.
  13. You reading the internet again? Oh wait, this is the internet too... I'm glad you understand my English - I hate working to write correctly by the grammar book rules. I'm glad you are putting it into a table -will be glad to see it. Turbinliner - ah yes, well before my time but interesting and sadly, most of the people who would have known about them are gone. That is another thing that I should have learned about when I had a chance. I believe only two were built as test trucks, at least one with a Boeing turbine. They may have had some test runs with a customer but it never made it to production. Consolidated Freightways owned Freightliner at the time so some assumptions are probably accurate about who was interested. They that didn't have the performance or fuel economy. Don't know until you try. Several other truck manufacturers were also giving turbines a try at the time. They made tremendous press for everybody even if combustion engines were still king. I've been trying to find a technical paper at SAE but haven't spent a lot of effort looking. All of the cab lengths for the 61 and 71 series are below - they were not all available at first. Some were added for special customer applications or to make larger cabs available as customers wanted more deluxe accommodations. I think the other cab sizes are earlier, probably non-tilt cabs, based on what I saw on the internet yesterday... had to look 48" special customer application 51" The 51" has more than a family relationship with the conventional. The FLC conventional was derived from the 51" COE with some cab common parts. The left and right cab decks are basically the same but the floor uses a lower and narrower tunnel for the conventional - much lower, much narrower (The 56" is maybe a typo but at Freightliner??? it's may have been something earlier) 63" - this is the AMT kit day cab single drive, common for fleets. Most common size for non-sleepers. 72" - very small bunk - probably useful only for storage. This worked well when trucks had an optional air intake and/or exhaust that routed inside the cab at the rear corners. Check the air intake bonnet on the red and white truck at the beginning. I bet there is something like that for exhaust on the other side. 75" sleeper, a little more room 86" - we know this as the AMT kit sleeper cab dual drive sleeper. Most common option 96" and 104". Cab Width (outside surface to outside surface, give some tolerance for the way they were built or designed depending on who's saying it) is 90.38" for 61 series, and 94.38" for 71 series. Steps mirrors, turnsignals, grabhandles were excluded from overall width measurement. The AMT kit is right on. An assortment(13", 18" and 24") of baggage doors was available. 18"x18" was most common with a single door on each side for the 86" cab In the days of the COE before 1982, cab size was driven significantly by the size and weight regulations. Vehicle size and weight were controlled by the states - size was governed by the overall length of the combined tractor and trailer. A larger cab meant less freight, meant less revenue. Trucks were tools to do a job. After the Surface Transportation Assistance Act in 1982, the Federal Government specified that the size regulations would be based on just size of the trailer. The Federal government couldn't directly tell the states what the regulations would be but they could be persuasive by connecting the regulations to economic assistance thru the interstate high way system. Pretty effective. Interstate fleets wanted the change because it basically changed 50 different state regulations to one. They had to have different trucks in some states. Overnight, the truck market changed to conventionals.
  14. As I remember it, the original Treatment product in the late 1970's was sold to do-it yourselfers to restore auto finishes. It was a wax that had a bit of polish in it. The polish was not as aggressive as the abrasives in most of the auto parts store polishes. You could get a really good shine with it. It's kind of both - somewhere in-between a wax and a polish. The polishing rag would come up with the paint color. The Treatment was a really big thing in the market for a while but it went away quickly. At this point, I agree that it will probably cause more problems than it will solve - especially with the decals. A general rule - polish for shine, wax for protection. No wax on model cars.
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