for the Monogram Snake and Mongoose F/C kits... Aftermarket solution... The Competition Resins CRT-501 slicks - will fit the kit wheels and look good. They are a soft black resin - size is like the Monogram slick used on the more modern funny car kits, but narrower, The more modern Monogram slicks always look too wide on the early funny cars and dragster so these are my go-to tire. Comp Rresins are also available at Slixx
Actually, I like that idea better - it doesn't take a very strong magnet to hold the door closed. The miniature super magnets seem strong enough to pull loose from the adhesive holding them in the door - or worse, strong enough to pull the panel out of shape or create a sink mark over time with a constant pull.
funny thing is, I don't think anybody called them muscle cars until they became collectible in the new milineum... Surely anything built after the insurance rates, gasoline shortages, and emissions regulations strangled horsepower in 1972 is not a muscle car.
All of the reasons mentioned already - for me, affordability and the chance to build something that isn't available in a current kit. I'm with Snake 45 on that Corvette - he's had some interesting preservation projects lately. just some thoughts here - Looking more closely at the AMT '32 roadster in the topic post - the body has the molded in trunk lid that only came in the early issues, maybe only the first issue in 1959. History, probably not rare, but a least uncommon. Later issues had an opening trunk lid. There were also a couple of early issues that came with a tonneau cover for center steering that will cover up all of the ugly on the body around the interior. It may take another glue bomb or a lucky find in the right parts box to get one, but they are out there and an easy fix. Personal preference here - the grill shell in the old black plastic kits are shaped a little better than the later reissues - they take a lot less work to look right.. Any readily available AMT roadster kit has everything else. Full disclosure - I have a project like this on the workbench right now. EDIT - OK, I've made it thru the rest of the new content on the forum in the last couple of days and now I've seen the "original" post in for the '32 roadster in the photos - It's rebuild is in progress and its going to be good. Not the molded in trunk like I thought but still cool.
Matt, yes the instructions are dark, fuzzy, and the pictures are impossible to figure out.- very poor copy - looks like a forth gen photo copy from the original kit - but they are what the latest issue came with. to complicate things, the rubber bands for the blower belt were in the bag with some electric motor parts, didn't even look like a part for the kit... But, still grateful to have the kit and it will get built someday. I'm enjoying your build up, it's looking good, I like it! Steve
The thing that tricks our eyes with the AMT White Freightliner COE kit is the width of the cab. The cab is a 61 series at 90.38" wide which has not been commonly seen on the road since the late 70's. They are rarely, rarely, rarely ever seen anymore. In the mid 70's, Freightliner introduced the 71 series which is wider at 94.38" and included the rubber fender extenders that cover the front tires. The cab was widened to provide adequate room for the larger radiator required for the modern higher horsepower engines.
splitting Evergreen (say 1/8 or larger) plastic tubing freehnad is a pretty straightforward deal with a thin fine tooth hobby saw - lay the tubing on the bench and don't aim the blade at any vital body parts - leave a little bit extra to straighten and cleanup the line with a long fine tooth file. Might be easier to split the tubing to a semi circle then split that to get a 90 for a corner piece - Now I'm not working to make four pieces out of a length of tubing. One corner piece per length is success for me. Also works with hobby aluminum tubing.
All good ideas - but sometimes I go all in for the least delicate workshop method for precision material removal - Warning, this might be overkill... the part looks like a wheel back so appearance on the other side is not a concern - If chiseling it down doesn't work, I just drill all of the way thru with the diameter of the raised mounting boss, then replace it with hub cut down from another wheel back to fit the axle. It is recommended to drill under-size and file for size and position of the hole.
I really like this one - well done - it's got soul! as a Chevy guy, the 1949 and 1950 Ford kits had little interest for me 6 months ago - I liked them when I saw one well built but that was it Well, about 3 weeks ago the reissued '50 convert found it's way to the work bench and then the '49 followed it home. Through the forum, I was able to obtain the original Carson top for the convertible. So, I have a question - Both kits have holes in the chassis to lower the front, but there is nothing in these new kits to lower the rear. What is the best way to lower the rear - Thank you in advance, Steve