I've always used a pin vise and will continue to use one to get the drill started in the right place - but many times I wished I had a mini power drill to save my finger tips - My dremel is too big for fine work. - I'm going to have to check these out. - thanks for the tips
A 200 MPH car would have full front and rear suspension - better handling and traction - lots of tech information in the build forum at landracing.com. One of the best web-sites out there. edit - added link to the landracing.com build diaries - http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?board=12.0
Great find! I found mine at a local garage sale on my afternoon walk about a half mile from home on a Sunday afternoon. It was already cheap but I talked them down anyway - I was thinking if they said no it would save me carrying it home. They said OK... funny how carrying things like that seems to make them heavier. A great reference from A to Z.
just one idea - Check with Mikes decals - he has a decal set for the NASCAR Torinos which looks like it has 90% of it. The other decals for Le Mans may be available somewhere else on a sports car decal sheet.
Correct, there is that much difference in the length of the intake ports in a big block Chevy head - the Can Am racers in the 1960's had it figured out. The ports on the intake side are in pairs, the ports on the exhaust side are evenly spaced. One of intake ports in each pair must be longer to get to from the manifold to the intake valve and it's not a straight shot. The stack length has to be staggered to make the total length from the top of the intake to the valve equal for all of the intake ports. As far as stack length on a small Chevy... they are tuned for the operating RPM of the engine where power is required. A common engine in the gas classes of the 1960's was a 301 Chevy small block with a 10,000 plus RPM top end - loved the sound of those screamers off the line - short stacks for high RPM, small displacement engine! Kind of different deal at the same time over on the 1/4 mile dirt ovals, Larger engines and tuned for torque out of the corner were the hot ticket- so taller fuel injection stacks. Some racers tried other things, but generally these rules held true. A couple of other choices for scale small block Chevy fuel injection - Speed City Resin has a couple of manifolds and metal stacks in different lengths. Some of the dirt track kits have engines with fuel injection. The Monogram sprint cars have a very nice engine with fuel injection, but it's a bit too late for a '60's gasser.
While we're talking beam axles, quick changes and alternative engines, how 'bout a new frame that interchanges completely with the existing frame to put them in... The engine mounts in the current frame for the Ford are located where they block center dump exhaust manifolds inside the chassis. The engine mounts have to be moved to put a small block Chevy in the frame with a hood.
Chuck Boerner's decals --- the aftermarket directory here on the forum shows email@example.com and the website is http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/stang1forever/library/?sort=3&page=1 I keep looking and have a list but haven't bought any yet.
That's a good plan - the Testors enamels are really soft and the mildest polish will be best - maybe even as mild as something like Meguiers cleaner-wax. It should shine up good without clear, but if you go that step, any polish or wax will need to be cleaned off with a good detergent (dish soap) for the clear to stick.
a fogged edge can be done by lifting the edge of the tape and spraying over the back side of the raised tape. Changing how much the tape is lifted and the spray direction will change the width of the fogged area. better control with an airbrush but it's not impossible with a rattle can In the end, I agree, best advice - experiment to find the technique you like for the results you want and practice for consistency...