wow! Learned to drive on the family '65 Belvedere wagon... A little different, slant six , three on the tree... but this one hits close to the soul. Good to see that Moebius did a great job. Thanks for the review
Have to agree with these tips - no power - all of the holes that I drill are done with pin vise - starting small and working up in small steps. I believe the hole in the window that you are making is a minimum 6" diameter opening for the safety crews to access the interior with a fire extinguisher. That's about 1/4" in scale. At that size, it is difficult to get a round hole in plastic with a drill bit. Best to get up close to size with a drill and finish with a round file. take it easy - not much pressure
sorry Tom, posted here and I do have firsthand experience - as posted in the other thread - it sucks - just wanted people to know so they have the information before they send money. Keep in mind, Randy Frost at Perry's is the person that has created his reputation, not the people that have posted. agreed - always had first class service from Replicas and Modelhaus -several times and a long time customer. OK, I counted to ten and deleted the editorial comments...
Tom, thank you for the inspiration - I have a couple of tootsietoy cars that I have been "saving" from my much younger days - ahhh the memories... it would be way cooler and worth a lot more to paint them bright and new for the granddaughter
just finished getting exhuast port centerline dimensions from the Sanderson headers on the nailhead in Joe's 1928 model A sport coupe - real Henry steel and GM iron. He pulled the 401 out of a stock 1965 Buick. Headers were on the work bench so real easy to measure port spacing with a Stanley tape. Ports one to two - 4-1/2", ports two to three - 8-1/4", ports one to four 17-1/4" Plastic Nailheads - with dial caliper and calibrated eyeball - please allow some tolerance in these measurements - measuring points aren't precise on the plastic parts. Revell Parts Pack/Ivo Showboat - one to two - 0.155 (3-7/8"), two to three - 0.3303 (8-1/4"), one to four 0.670" (16-3/4") Revell 1929 Model A headers- one to two - 0.165 (4-1/8"), two to three - 0.380 (9-1/2"), one to four - 0.710 (17-3/4") Revell 1929 Model A Buick cylinder heads - same as the headers
Add my thanks to Tim for the excellent review and photos. There are some unique features engineered into this kit that I haven't seen before. Revell added some material to the parts on the chrome trees so the sprue attaching points won't be visible when the model is built - It will take a bit of clever trimming, but there won't be any white spots showing or silver touch-ups required - way cool. An example is the air cleaners which have the sprue attached on the bottom, not the edge There are a lot of extra little disposable tabs molded on many of the parts with tiny details - overall, the detail is a lot finer and the tabs allow plastic to fill the molds so the detail is not lost. Revell has engineered carburetors that look like a real carb and not just a plastic blob. Revell has really upped the quality of the detail on this kit. I didn't find any sink marks to fill. Not an expert on injection molding but it looks like all of the ejection pins (or at least the ones I found) are on the sprue - not on the parts. The parts trees are set up in logical groups - it looks like modular packaging which is looking forward to future kits - looks like more are on the way Good fit on all of the parts that I've done test fits.