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About Muncie

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Pacific Wonderland
  • Full Name
    Steve Payne

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  1. Good Spray Can finish for Engine Blocks and Transmissions?

    Krylon Dull Aluminum in the large cans is a good go-to for a basic cast aluminum finish. Sometimes difficult to find but worth it. Some Ace Hardware stores have it. As has been said, there are different levels of brightness ands gloss in an engine compartment but this is a good place to start. Dull Aluminum also makes a good base coat for metallizers and other metallic finishes.
  2. Square Quad Headlights

    Bill, these might work... Check with Jamie over at http://moluminum.com/ he has a couple of part numbers from Czech Truck Model. It is not the complete lamp assembly, but the bulbs are very detailed and look good.
  3. AMT gray goo vs. new plastic?

    others may have different results, but I prefer the new plastic when slicing and dicing. I use a razor saw and flat file to fit - edges are smoother with the new plastic - straight cuts glue together better. I've been using Tamiya Super Thin or Plastruct Bondene to "weld" the pieces back together. The new plastic is definitely harder than the old gray gooey stuff. I've "replaced" a couple of kits because the new plastic glues better - build the new, gray plastic becomes the parts donor.
  4. Young American/ Jade Granade

    which was based on the Chrysler 392, not the 426
  5. Young American/ Jade Granade

    thinking out loud... All of the original front engine rails with 426 Hemi's had Plymouth or Dodge (don't say Chrysler) production blocks - available in muscle car kits like the Revell 1968 ,'69 and '70 Charger, 1967 GTX. These are well detailed blocks - and the blower /induction system of choice can be sourced from a dragster or funny car kit Top fuel was well into rear engine dragsters when the (edit) (426) alloy aftermarket blocks started showing up
  6. WhoopieKat New decals

    I've been thinking the same thing...
  7. Victoria Day Weekend Speedfest

    Awesome photos! thanks for posting
  8. Shizuoka Hobby Show 2018

    Thank you, might have to do that, I forgot the Revell/Hobbico deal also messed up U.S distribution
  9. Shizuoka Hobby Show 2018

    thank you for posting the pics and reports - not my usual but looks like some nice kits. Mitsubishi Colt Galant GTO-MR - I see it as a phantom Dodge fastback hemi-colt. that should make the list! Looks like a July release. Are there any good Hasegawa dealers that would carry it in the U.S.?
  10. Mustang II IFS?

    Curt, there is a good Mustang II IFS in the Revell Beatnik Bandit II if you need to go to a kit. hope this helps edit change photo, addedkit instructions here - https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/revell-instructions/show-rods/revell-new-beatnik-/scan0003.html#media
  11. Vintage Rat Rod Carburetor Scoop

    some general discussion over here for kit and aftermarket sources.
  12. Sorry, Not in my book

    a swing and a miss -- on the other hand, there have been a couple of similar cars built here on the forum with better proportions and better craftsmanship that looked good - they were home runs
  13. Iconic Chevy

    Russ Meeks' sectioned Nomad, all those junior stock sedan deliveries in the 60's, and my first car 1956 210 Handyman.
  14. In the day when these trucks were new... The drivers who wanted a brakesaver paid big money and swore by them. Now... with the big cost to repair one and the difficulty to find parts for a nearly 50 year old system, I think the owner would swear at it.
  15. fiirst, thank you for posting the reference pictures - there is a lot of good information in them. I kinda dig those metalflake steering wheels as well. Red was a good combination. The green combination was pretty awful with avocado upholstery and a bright green steering wheel - it was the '70's. Brakesaver was a Caterpillar hydraulic retarder located on the back of the engine - a very complex, expensive, and rare option that basically did the same function as a Jake Brake on a Detroit Diesel. I'm going to have to leave the details to the internet. The story I was told was that Detroit Diesel had the patents locked up for the Jacobs Compression Brake. Eventually Jake Brakes became available for Cummins and Caterpillar engines. Here is a diagram for the brakesaver oil routing. The oil in the Brakesaver was routed thru the oil cooler on the engine which dumped it's heat into the cooling system so the radiator had to be larger to take the heat away. The hydraulic brake added four inches to the rear of the engine. Caterpillar engines were considered the premium option and a Brakesaver was a premium on top of that. The Caterpillar Brakesaver had significantly greater retarding power than a Jake Brake but the exact number has escaped my memory.