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About Muncie

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build

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    Pacific Wonderland
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    Steve Payne

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  1. Awesome! I also tried one of these way back in the '90's but it stalled out when I got to the black out on the windows - yours is incredible. All around, it's nicely done.
  2. I'm thankful to see this kit however we get it, but those parts would be great be great. That tall sleeper roof cap really did exist. It was an aftermarket fiberglass part made and installed by Sloan's in Portland near the Freightliner plant. It was not a Kenworth Aerodyne part.
  3. Absolutely, I got a little lazy with some terminology, both automotive lacquer and enamels are old technology and difficult or impossible to find at automotive paint supply shops. Automotive urethanes also scare me for the same reason as the enamels with a hardener, but that's mostly because I don't know much about urethanes. I never intend to use them for model cars. The main point I wanted to make was about safety.
  4. not a pro painter here, but have had some good paint jobs on model cars. I painted a 1:1 Chevelle long ago when acrylic enamel with a hardener was the go to automotive paint material. It wasn't perfect. Based on that, I can't think of anything worse for model cars. Yeah, it can be made to work but it has a lot of problems. It has to have a hardener to dry properly. Enamels dry by chemistry and with a hardener it has a schedule that must be followed from mixing, to painting to drying - miss the schedule and there will be problems. It can cure so hard that it cannot be polished if you don't hit the time window. As mentioned, and this was also discussed in a community college general automotive class, the automotive enamel paint materials contain isocyanates - basically like super glue which is attracted to moisture like in you eyes and lungs. A little bit goes a long way and can do a lot of damage very quickly with very little exposure you are using proper automotive paint equipment. Plugging your lungs with isocyanates means you don't breathe. Scary stuff. Cost per ounce may be low compared to model paint, but if you don't paint a lot of models with the same color, it a pretty high cost per model. Automotive enamel also has a shelf life in a can that has been opened - it won't last forever, plan to throw some away. Am I trying to discourage automotive enamels on model cars - that would be yes, there are easier paints to use and the health issue is just too scary. (I believe from their web site that MCW is a PPG automotive lacquer, not an enamel.)
  5. probably not much help , I did some quick research and it only confirmed black or white for the 442. The other colors on the paint chart may have only been for the other Oldsmobile models. The reproduction shops that I looked at only show black and white in the correct Levant pattern - https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/product-category/vinyl-tops-trim-accessories/?cfg=[{"make"%3A"OLDSMOBILE."%2C"selection_num"%3A"1"%2C"sel_criterion"%3A"1"}%2C{"make"%3A"OLDSMOBILE."%2C"selection_num"%3A"2"%2C"sel_criterion"%3A"5"}] Auto upholstery shops have books with upholstery and vinyl materials for different cars that are similar to paint charts. There may be more information there about other possible colors. Vinyl tops can be dyed so any color is good if you are going for a day 2 look or a car with some modifications . Hope this helps
  6. --- this is a good thread to look at - The diamond pattern interior in the AMT kit represents an upper level interior which was available in several colors. CF used the standard interior which was flat panels. In the early 70's it was only available in black - black tunnel, black dash, black seats, black walls - probably just black paint on the doors for CF... ivory steering wheel, wood grain gauge panels. Freightliner changed the standard interior color to a saddle tan in the mid-70's.
  7. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/142670-early-funny-car-reference/?tab=comments#comment-2091273
  8. I like this idea, new to me Yep, this works. I've been using a needle point round file - I usually cut the rod/tubing at the angle of the joint. Then make a small grove with a triangular file to guide the round file - then file to shape with a round file
  9. Mine was in the mail yesterday, It's better than the pictures. Bench clearing time - I want to have one finished.
  10. Exactly. That's enough to do something with. The time and effort to break it down would be a huge burden for a long time.
  11. Looks like a large parachute pack? That would make it old - like something from Revell's Miss Deal or before that the Revell Parts Pack (no idea here about which parts pack). Ed Fluck has it in resin at his Drag city Casting. check with him for availability. https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/parts/pics-256.html
  12. I'm going to go with a brighter gold - maybe something like House of Color Pagan Gold Kandy over a white base coat. This is based on an old, almost twenty year old memory - my memory usually expires well before that but this one is still pretty accurate. Long ago, I built a Deora and panted it with what I had on hand which was a GM gold (could have been similar to the Tiger gold) over a gray primer. It came out Ok but a little darker than I wanted. I figured good enough - it will never be in the same room. But then came chance to go to the Detroit Autorama and I took a couple of models to display in the model contest. The Alexander Brothers and several of their cars were featured that year. You guessed it , the Deora was freshly restored and in the room. I didn't even have to compare the two Deoras next to each other - it was obvious that mine was way off. The Deora is a bright candy Gold. The Alexander Brothers are known for their candy paint and the Deora is an excellent example. hope this helps
  13. Looks like a cool idea - definitely the coolest trophies
  14. Competition Resin makes the 6 pack scoop, also available at Slixx decals. Part #CRC=072. It's the Dodge version with the rib on the top but that's easy to take care of.
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