rsxse240

Looks great so far! Tough kit to build. Good luck! I started one a bazillion years ago and haven't finished it. The windshield frame keeps breaking. I suggest you paint it asap, and put in the windshield to prevent this from happening.

Unfortunately I have nothing to show. I have done a LOT of research, but have no PE tools or chemistry

Great idea! I will definitely be borrowing this! I have also made molds of grills and bezels with lenses moulded in. Then cast the whole part in clear resin, followed by some Molotow Chrome.

I stumbled upon the quick curing of CA with soda or talc on accident. I was using CA as a filler, and tried the powders as a type of aggregate, to "thicken" it up and make it easier to sand and shape when cured. It was a somewhat successful trial, but there's putty and styrene that work better with less mess.

To etch completely through, use no coating. Halfway through, coat one side. To leave impression, coat one side.

That was it! Thanks, bud!

Good idea! I happen to have a bump side short bed, but I can't remember if it is 1:24 or 1:25. ...More research. lol

Some time ago, I saw someone had shortened the F350 bedside on the AMT kit. As I am unable to find it and use it as a guide, I started one myself. I got the bedsides cut to length, now I need to adjust the wheel opening. I am unsure of where exactly to place them. I know the opening needs to move forward and down. I am not in possession of a 1:1 so I can only rely on images and as they are at all different angles, it is difficult to get accurate measurements. Here is the one side done and the other original to compare. Both are now cut to length and the leading edges are done.

I can't say that I have ever heard of I can't say that I have ever heard of it. Edit: I just looked it up on YouTube and it doesn't seem feasible for modelling application, but that doesn't mean it isn't good for ANYTHING in modelling.

I haven't had a problem with sinful colors yet. And though they won't tell what they're using as a base, it thins with Testors reducer, and even mixes with their paint, so I presume it is enamel. Also, since it is so cheap, I would guess the maker isn't using lacquer as a base. I use lacquer thinner as it expedites the drying/curing process and it is readily available at reasonable prices.

This is Sinful Colors nail polish over Testors Model Master flat black (as primer/base). I thinned it about 1 part paint to 1 and ¼ medium temperature lacquer thinner from the auto paint store. I found Kleen Strip (or typical hardware store brand) is very "hot" and dries too quickly and gives the paint no time to flow out, leaving a very rough texture.

Look up "Mini Tub". It is very common and quite easy.

I agree with the Bondo. Although, for just getting rid of scratches and very small imperfections, I have found the Tamiya filling primer is excellent. It is almost as thick as putty, but seems to be a much finer product.

Is the Revell engine a decent offering or just a top half, die cast style? Could it be used in a Galant or Evo with relative accuracy?

I thinned this with a medium "temperature" lacquer thinner from Orilley Auto Parts. I have used the Kleen Strip brand but it was too hot and would dry before hitting the body causing a very grainy texture. Also it seems the Orilley stuff seems to mix into the paint as opposed to dissolving the carrier (if that makes sense), as the Kleen Strip brand does. The pressure is very subjective with nail polish. Most times you want a very low pressure and build up very thin coats, but with the size and quantity of flake in this paint, I had to crank up the pressure and REALLY open up the needle. I used a #3 needle in my Paasche VL at about 25-30 PSI to keep it wet and flowing until it was on the car body.