Did YOU enjoy building this model? Do YOU like the way it turned out? If you answers are both yes, then you've done a great job. Just look at how your build turned out and observe the points you want to improve and ask how to do those. You are asking a very vague question by asking "How can I improve my build?".
See if you can find a model club near you and attend regularly, that in itself will vastly and rapidly improve your skills. I have even gone as far as hanging a flyer up at Hobby Lobby for recruiting modelers.
Give praise to God for everything and you'll be just fine.
I'm of the opinion that the right wheels, suspension and paint, and maybe some window tint can make any car look good. I personally like the J30, here's mine, just to show what can be done with this "Boring" kit. Since it was a curbside, it went together easily.
As seen above, a candle works well, but make sure not to get to close. I tried and found that the candle I was using gave of a lot of soot or other impurities that clouded the "GLASS". I tried again using a heat gun for heat shrink (butane torch with a sort of heat reflector shield thing) and it softened the plastic and left it crystal clear, although my mold was less than what one would consider poor quality, it still turned out a nice crystal clear part.
As for mold material, wouldn't plaster or drywall mud be too grainy and brittle? I had to mash mine in pretty good. I might consider an epoxy resin mold or maybe JBWeld or some of that 2 part plumber's putty, tamiya 2 part, miliput or any other hard 2 part putty.
I have SO MANY kits I haven't built because of the headlights being poorly cast, not clear or otherwise ugly. This trick is going to be a great motivator for me! Thank you so much, Steve, for sharing this great tip!
for an airbrush only booth, you really don't need that much, but if you're using spray cans a lot, you might make sure you get a good amount of cfm. If you are pulling 150 cubic feet per minute, that is replacing the air in a 10'X10'X8' room in just about 5 minutes. If you asked me, that's plenty sufficient for a 2x3x3 booth. The math tells me that your little booth would have all of the air replaced every .12 minutes or about 5 seconds. That's pretty good. The main thing you'll want to consider when selecting a fan for your booth is what kind of paints you'll be using. If you are going to be using an air compressor spraying water based paints, volatility may not be an issue, but if you are spraying lacquers, or other highly combustible paints or aerosols you will definitely want a spark free fan motor or sealed motor to lessen the chance of blowing yourself up. not that I've ever heard of anyone blowing up in a freak airbrushing accident. lol, it could happen!
ahh, yes, but was it the rare maveNck, or was it a maverick? I also like that it's labeled as a Grabber, but is CLEARLY a base model with out the grabber hood or V8 engine. lol But then again, it's a TOY for children to play with after they build it. Nothing wrong with that, that's how I started building models. I am definitely going to look at the diecasts next time I'm at wally world.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the intake manifold is too long for the heads. The "bolt heads" holding the ends of the manifold are dangling out in the atmosphere.
This pic is of a single 4 barrel, but it is still a 302 and the manifold clearly fits within the length of the head. http://www.proformanceunlimited.com/specs/crate_engines/302_300_L.png
It looks like the manifold is 1/24 on a 1/25 engine, to be honest. The manifold seems to sit too high on the head as well. I wonder if that is just from another kit that they adapted to fit. I would have expected them to give us a separate distributor, if indeed, this is an all new kit. I think utilizing the 302 from the Revell 32 Ford 3-window would be a good move for accuracy.
Don't confuse me with a rivet-counter, but I am a perfectionist and a mechanic, so I've seen my share of 302s. Other than the intake fitment, I'd say it looks pretty good so far! I can't wait to see the bodywork and even the box top! lol
There's a guy in Russia that is selling corrected nose piece for this model. I have heard that it's pretty good quality and really takes away the droopy sad looking lights and puts them much closer to where they're supposed to be. I posted a thread in the car resin/aftermarket section. You should take a look at it before you get real crazy about the paint and body work. You shouldn't be disappointed.
That's getting a bit picky! lol Most of the time, engines, seats and other various parts are not exact to scale, due to material thickness, production restrictions, or any number of reasons...designers were just lazy and didn't want to do another scale calculation, who knows. lol That engine may seem slightly larger than the stock one, but it's the best one on the market. AMT also did a 71 or 72 Mach-I with a 351, but I'm almost certain it's a Winsor and it would most certainly be simply a lump of plastic with some " 'at'll do" details and floating belt pulleys.
Like Jon says, go with the Mustang's Cleveland, it'll be your best bet.