rsxse240

I will share this with the Oklahoma guys.

The Testors gloss clear takes about 10-30 minutes to dry enough to handle, if you spray thin coats and let them set up between coats. I have wet sanded as early as one hour after spraying...on very hot/arid days. I have also wet sanded too early, resulting in stripping the paint, two days later on really humid days. One thing I suggest is painting a spoon or something to test on, before you ruin your paint job. Using a hairdryer to fast cure your paint will help a lot! Wet sand in 15 minutes if done properly. Be careful you don't over-heat the plastic and warp it.

Belts from the Detroit diesel I built in an AMT GMC Astro 95.

All Testors acrylic, wetsanded and polished. The trick was to get enough layers to build up a workable thickness. But the key is to have a perfect base on which you are spraying over. Make sure your primer coat is flawless and smooth, not just out of the can. Then wetsand your base color after it has been thoroughly cured. Acrylic paint sprays so thin that it takes forever to build up a good workable surface but it has so many advantages over enamel and lacquer paint. But there are drawbacks too like: clean up, clogging up your airbrush, learning to use it, just to name a few pros and cons.

This is a very multi-layer question. Just painting a headliner, box stock build, I like Snake's plan. Covering mold imperfections and such, 89AKurt's plan would work well with any number of materials. I have used both of these examples and had great success. But there's no limit to how detailed you can get. I have used sheet styrene to build up interior details on a, b, and c pillars to give depth and dimension and used masking tape for headliner. I've used Bondo to fill in spaces to smooth out the inner roof. The thing is to find a 1:1 reference photo of what you wish to replicate, then through trial and error, asking for suggestions, and brainstorming, come up with a plan to achieve your goal. You see in this picture, I had a full bucket type "glass". I temporarily installed and scribed the door window opening to the bucket, carefully scribed out the door glass leaving the bucket minus the door glass to represent the interior trim plastics. I then shaped and polished things accordingly. I then used masking tape to cover the square hole in the headliner, did some creative masking and painting to create a very believable headliner and inner roof. Then I thinned and polished the door glass and installed them to be halfway down. All because I wanted to hang the seatbelts where they belong. Lol Here's the finished product. See how well the effort payed off? Oh, no, you can't see it, but it does look very good, take my word. Hahaha

It makes sense that a metalizer would rust as metal flakes are used in this product. Sure, you used "aluminum" but it was probably mixed with several other types of metal to get the tint they were looking to achieve. When metalizer isn't sealed with clear, it is exposed to humidity and acts like metal. Magnesium will turn gray, aluminum will turn white, steel and iron turn rust red, etc.

Testors Model Master ice blue pearl acrylic, shot through my Paasche H. Clear coated with Testors gloss acrylic clear, wet sanded and polished (to eliminate the very slightest orange peel that was likely from the primer)

Thank you all for the compliments. Gino, The Fox Body Mustang has always been a favorite of mine. The Euro styling of the SVO that is shared with the Ford Sierra XR4Ti always caught my eyes. Thank you Steve. I have been trying to keep my finger prints off of the glass and paint. It is difficult! Lol Thanks Jim! This was a trial with acrylic paint and I think it's fair to say I got pretty good results. I used Testors MM Ice Blue Pearl over black and Testors Acrylic Gloss Clear, lots of polishing, but it went well. Also, it is incredibly easy to repair . Are you kidding me, Curt!?!? That TA, Galaxy, and Maverick you built are amazing! Ron, the engine was a challenge, I'm not going to lie. And I just got tired of chrome lenses and decided to do something about it. Thank you for the compliment.

Thanks, epso. The setting is just so top of the wife's Infiniti in front of my house. I was just getting some daylight pictures and it was handy. Some day, I will make a little Dio to take pics on, but until then, the roof of the cleanest car will likely be my photo booth. Lol Thank you so much, all of you. It is this encouragement and support that keeps me coming back to this site.

Thank you guys for the compliments. I got the wheels from a Fujimi 180SX Type-X.

My entire list of comlpleted builds for 2018. Revell 1985 Mustang SVO. I made new front signals from clear resin, detail the engine with bits of wire and various scraps. I'll add some chassis detail pictures soon.

What a Terrible kit! I have been working on one for about 10 years or so. I found the Poncho conversion on eBay, used the frame from either a Baldwin Motion or stock 70.5 Camaro, but when I started to work on the interior, I just kinda gave up, because the Revell kit came out and there was no way my work could stand up to the new kit straight built oob. I may drag it out again and just finish it slammer style or something. Good luck on your build. I hope it turns out well for you.

Thanks, Brian. I just got the tail lights painted and installed, the wing is on, most of the decals on, still have some underhood decals, the fog lamps and license plates to go. I may still decide to blackwash the rims but definitely need to find some SVO decals for the center caps. Thank you all for your support. The replies, critiques and support keeps me going.

Looks like I was able to sand down the clear, add a little more and polish it out. We'll soon be seeing you "Under Glass"

Oh, it'll be completed by the end of the year. LOL. I won't "enter" it into the group build. I think I will dig out my F31 Leopard. I will have to repair or re-do the paint again, but I could probably finish it pretty quickly.