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rsxse240

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Everything posted by rsxse240

  1. The Venom 180SX paint by Alexander Jurck, built by me.
  2. It is. Airbrush and hand painted details. I am trying to find the YouTube video he posted of the progress.
  3. My good friend, Alexander Jurck, posted he would trade a paint job for a Moebius F100, so I sent the truck and a freshly re-primed 180SX. We decided that VENOM would be the theme, and he did his magic. It is all airbrush and detail painted by hand.
  4. My God has it already been a year+ since I updated this! Well, I'll have to get on it then. Such a huge surprise for those who haven't seen it yet. MAJOR update coming this evening!
  5. Looks great Joe! You going to bring it to Oklahoma and show it off?
  6. That's something from the old speed racer cartoons. Looks amazing! I never knew Shelby and DeTomaso did a project.
  7. I recently picked up the Revell Mad Mudder Blazer kit with the intent to make a slammed C5 Square Body. The problem is the lack of a roof in the kit. 3 questions about it. 1: Does anyone have a roof from an older kit they would allow me to borrow and make a copy of? 2: Does anyone else want a roof for their Mad Mudder? I wouldn't mind making a few to share. 3: does the 2WD Chevy stepside share the same chassis components as the blazer kits?
  8. Looks great so far! Tough kit to build. Good luck! I started one a bazillion years ago and haven't finished it. The windshield frame keeps breaking. I suggest you paint it asap, and put in the windshield to prevent this from happening.
  9. Unfortunately I have nothing to show. I have done a LOT of research, but have no PE tools or chemistry
  10. Great idea! I will definitely be borrowing this! I have also made molds of grills and bezels with lenses moulded in. Then cast the whole part in clear resin, followed by some Molotow Chrome.
  11. I stumbled upon the quick curing of CA with soda or talc on accident. I was using CA as a filler, and tried the powders as a type of aggregate, to "thicken" it up and make it easier to sand and shape when cured. It was a somewhat successful trial, but there's putty and styrene that work better with less mess.
  12. To etch completely through, use no coating. Halfway through, coat one side. To leave impression, coat one side.
  13. Good idea! I happen to have a bump side short bed, but I can't remember if it is 1:24 or 1:25. ...More research. lol
  14. Some time ago, I saw someone had shortened the F350 bedside on the AMT kit. As I am unable to find it and use it as a guide, I started one myself. I got the bedsides cut to length, now I need to adjust the wheel opening. I am unsure of where exactly to place them. I know the opening needs to move forward and down. I am not in possession of a 1:1 so I can only rely on images and as they are at all different angles, it is difficult to get accurate measurements. Here is the one side done and the other original to compare. Both are now cut to length and the leading edges are done.
  15. I can't say that I have ever heard of I can't say that I have ever heard of it. Edit: I just looked it up on YouTube and it doesn't seem feasible for modelling application, but that doesn't mean it isn't good for ANYTHING in modelling.
  16. I haven't had a problem with sinful colors yet. And though they won't tell what they're using as a base, it thins with Testors reducer, and even mixes with their paint, so I presume it is enamel. Also, since it is so cheap, I would guess the maker isn't using lacquer as a base. I use lacquer thinner as it expedites the drying/curing process and it is readily available at reasonable prices.
  17. This is Sinful Colors nail polish over Testors Model Master flat black (as primer/base). I thinned it about 1 part paint to 1 and ΒΌ medium temperature lacquer thinner from the auto paint store. I found Kleen Strip (or typical hardware store brand) is very "hot" and dries too quickly and gives the paint no time to flow out, leaving a very rough texture.
  18. I agree with the Bondo. Although, for just getting rid of scratches and very small imperfections, I have found the Tamiya filling primer is excellent. It is almost as thick as putty, but seems to be a much finer product.
  19. Is the Revell engine a decent offering or just a top half, die cast style? Could it be used in a Galant or Evo with relative accuracy?
  20. I thinned this with a medium "temperature" lacquer thinner from Orilley Auto Parts. I have used the Kleen Strip brand but it was too hot and would dry before hitting the body causing a very grainy texture. Also it seems the Orilley stuff seems to mix into the paint as opposed to dissolving the carrier (if that makes sense), as the Kleen Strip brand does. The pressure is very subjective with nail polish. Most times you want a very low pressure and build up very thin coats, but with the size and quantity of flake in this paint, I had to crank up the pressure and REALLY open up the needle. I used a #3 needle in my Paasche VL at about 25-30 PSI to keep it wet and flowing until it was on the car body.
  21. Sadly I was polishing the clear and there were some bumps in the base black, which came up through the paint as I was wet sanding and left black speckles everywhere. I have wet sanded the whole car and will be spraying another coat of the green this evening, since I can't work on the real cars in the driveway. Pics to come shortly.
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