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rsxse240

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Posts posted by rsxse240

  1. 23 hours ago, fomocomav said:

    Excellent build!  The clear headlights really do help the look of this kit.  I wish I would have found this sooner, to see if you made extra copies of those headlights.

    Thanks, I really appreciate the compliment!  

     

    I still have the mold for the lights, but my clear resin is bad.  I've been trying to get some non-UV blocking silicone so I can make them with UV resin for clarity and so they don't yellow.  

     

    When I get that sorted out, I will also be doing popular tail lights for kits that come with solid red and chrome lights, so as to provide a clear paintable piece that can correctly represent clear and amber lenses on cars with multi colored tail lights, like most pickup trucks that have the reverse lights in the tail light lense.

  2. Started with the engine and got the interior done.

    I'm using the Monogram SVO Mustang 2.4 Turbo engine.  Made a new intake manifold from styrene and aluminum tube.

    IMG_20210425_175353802.thumb.jpg.65d544706cac657c38d04ce13393f41f.jpg

    Made the bench seat from a F150 fit.  I know the split is on the wrong side, but it's been 23+ years since I owned the real truck, so I just didn't want to be bothered to build an accurate seat.  LOL 

    IMG_20210918_221149599.thumb.jpg.f20a2777c38679435846cbf4d429497f.jpg

    I've also done some work on the side glass.  Seems like it worked out ok.

    IMG_20210822_163215576.thumb.jpg.1006f5c791e5b772e261018e601661d3.jpg

    IMG_20210822_163945795.thumb.jpg.b150abd949bbd9be8df7d32238ce6b62.jpg

    IMG_20210822_164355244.thumb.jpg.61a7f6d340f8dd6677fd690fc6865102.jpg

    Now I hope t isn't another year before I post more progress.  Lol

  3. So a LONG time ago, I started a project of an extended cab Ranger to replicate my 1:1.  As many of our projects go stagnant, it went on to the shelf of doom, not to see the light of day for about 20 years.  Well, as skills and building materials improve, I resurrected the old codger, finished the roof, made a game plan for the side "glass" and finished the body.

    I stretched out the chassis, interior pan, and body using two kits, then modified the door panels for the interior using those fake credit cards and strip styrene.  Made molds of everything and cast up a few sets.  

    IMG_20200405_112122961_HDR.thumb.jpg.133300bc875823d4cb961f0e9bad426b.jpg

    IMG_20200515_084501249_HDR.thumb.jpg.5a22b9150dac1cf56b654c18326513f3.jpg

    So today I have made visible progress.  Lowered the rear suspension, painted some stuff.  So I had to check the ride height.

    IMG_20210130_174911280.thumb.jpg.a8288195210cd1305ce5ecbbebf5d63d.jpgIMG_20210130_174936936.thumb.jpg.f4135c0458a8af0570a6d211c633b4c4.jpg

    I hope to have the drivetrain sorted out soon so I can start with the details.  I'm kinda stoked about this one.  Hopefully it doesn't take as long as the SVO did!

     

    Thanks for looking!

  4. I recently picked up the Revell Mad Mudder Blazer kit with the intent to make a slammed C5 Square Body.  The problem is the lack of a roof in the kit.  3 questions about it.  

    1: Does anyone have a roof from an older kit they would allow me to borrow and make a copy of?

    2: Does anyone else want a roof for their Mad Mudder?  I wouldn't mind making a few to share.

    3: does the 2WD Chevy stepside share the same chassis components as the blazer kits?

  5. Looks great so far!  Tough kit to build.  Good luck!  

     

    I started one a bazillion years ago and haven't finished it.  The windshield frame keeps breaking.  I suggest you paint it asap, and put in the windshield to prevent this from happening.  

     

     

  6. I stumbled upon the quick curing of CA with soda or talc on accident.  I was using CA as a filler, and tried the powders as a type of aggregate, to "thicken" it up and make it easier to sand and shape when cured.  It was a somewhat successful trial, but there's putty and styrene that work better with less mess.

  7. Some time ago, I saw someone had shortened the F350 bedside on the AMT kit.  As I am unable to find it and use it as a guide, I started one myself. 

    I got the bedsides cut to length, now I need to adjust the wheel opening.  I am unsure of where exactly to place them.  I know the opening needs to move forward and down.  I am not in possession of a 1:1 so I can only rely on images and as they are at all different angles, it is difficult to get accurate measurements.

    Here is the one side done and the other original to compare.  Both are now cut to length and the leading edges are done.

    IMG_20190406_133825218.thumb.jpg.1f1915195fc274739f908de9954ae979.jpg

  8. On 4/8/2019 at 5:51 PM, Dave G. said:

    With hardware store Kleen Strip if it's going on dry, thus rough, there are some things you can do.

    1 Reduce your working air pressure till the nail polish goes on wetter. Too much air pressure dries it before it hits the surface.

    2 move the airbrush in closer to the model surface ( same reason as above, the distance can cause drying too).

    3 Mix the thinner 50/50 with xylene then thin as usual with that blend ( depending on the weather I sometimes use straight xylene or a blend rich in xylene).

    4 Increase the fluid flow .

    Model Master enamel isn't a good idea as a base under lacquer products. You will find out why in due time.

    I haven't had a problem with sinful colors yet.  And though they won't tell what they're using as a base, it thins with Testors reducer, and even mixes with their paint, so I presume it is enamel.  Also, since it is so cheap, I would guess the maker isn't using lacquer as a base.  I use lacquer thinner as it expedites the drying/curing process and it is readily available at reasonable prices.

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