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montecarlo1980

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About montecarlo1980

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 03/23/1980

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25th

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://s1304.photobucket.com/albums/s531/80montecarlo4/Work%20In%20Progress/
  • Yahoo
    rubenarredondo209@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lodi, CA USA
  • Full Name
    Ruben Arredondo

Recent Profile Visitors

3,135 profile views
  1. That makes sense with the wire gauge designation being pointless. Right now I don't have a way to measure the proper diameter of the wire with no calipers on hand. I'll have to pick some up and see what this wire comes out to. One thing is for sure, 500 feet of this stuff, I don't think Ill run out!
  2. Thank you Dave! Had some great trades with ewetwo as well. Always a safe and easy trade! Dave is a trusted trader!
  3. Just curious, what would 24 gauge wire be useful for in 1/24 or 1/25th scale? I have this big 500 foot spool of cross connect wire my brother gave me. I stripped one end so you can see the bare solid core compared to the wired covering. Quarter next to it for visual of size. Not sure what would look in scale with this wire I have. There's plenty than what I'll need it for.
  4. Years back I had bought some front resin front headlight/bezel's for a 78 Monte Carlo from a resin supplier. I was at the time out of super glue and had no epoxy on hand. Impatient I wanted to get them glued on. I had on hand some Loctite GO2 Glue I picked up from walmart. It's a clear glue sort of a thick honey consistency, dries a sort of rubber like texture on some test pieces I used it on. But very solid not a cheap flexible type rubber. I used it on the two resin headlights, and it held in place perfectly! Recently I wanted to remove the headlights and use them on another project, and with a little hobby knife help, they popped off with a little pressure. The glue left behind scraped right off easily. I also used it in a pinch to glue down some seats and they solid to this day. The seats were styrene on styrene. Resin headlights were attached on direct painted enamel surface I should mention. I'm actually pretty impressed by the glue and found lots of other uses for it with model building. It doesn't have a strong odor or anything either and dries crystal clear. Something different to try out.
  5. Not only are the prices good, they buy kits as well built, un-built and even parts. Great way to move things to make room if need be.
  6. Hey Peter, not sure if anything from these are exactly what you might be looking for as it were to the Dodge Magnum K-9 car, but there seems to be pretty big selection on both for light bar's. Custom Squads seems to have more selection of parts like the push bar etc you're looking for. Here are links to both. Hope they help! http://www.policecarmodels.com/11li.html http://www.customsquads.com/products.html
  7. Now that is cool as all get out!! I dig the build, that scoop came out perfect and nice touch on the windshield washer fluid.
  8. They're outstanding looking!! That is great detail on these both. I really want to get into building some kit's like seeing them more and more. Awesome job William!
  9. She came out great Dave!! Even with the mags it came out looking mean! Keep them coming!
  10. In my 30+ years of experience using it.. I have never had a paint issue of any kind with it. I've used every brand you can think of throughout masking with it for odd parts and never had an issue. I also do lots of other things outside of model painting and have never had issues with it. I used it masking guitar bodies as well for certain curves where most tapes just won't work for getting a perfect curve. And I have yet to have any issues with it. But I'm also a take my time kind of guy I don't need to have painted thing done in 5 minutes and move on. So I can see how some would still want to use other methods. But I have yet to find any kind of issue of it not working well coming off out of the part for models, or affecting the paint finish. Otherwise I would stop using it if it did. So far never been an issue.
  11. Well if you're open minded nothings too much work Never been for me it actually only takes but a couple seconds and never have to worry about any knife slips on delicate parts or sections. But go with what works for you. Just another idea to try.
  12. Just read this topic and one little trick I do for situations like this I don't want a paint build up in a sensitive area is I use good old silly putty. You can take a very small amount and push it into the holes for say the distributor etc, and the putty will fill the hole and you can paint your parts. When your paint is dried, you an use a toothpick tip to pull the silly putty right out. I have never had any issues with this method using any enamels, acrylics or lacquer paints so far in the last 30 some years doing this trick. Try it out next time it might work for you. I've been using silly putty since I was a kid for masking things off. A little goes a long way too.
  13. That is a bummer!! Was it an issue with paint compatibility or temp issues? I've had something similar happen to me before using Pactra paint with a certain silver base. I hope the next coats turn out better for you! It's looking better already from where it first came from.
  14. This is an awesome job!! I'm loving how this is turning out. I too had a 57 Nomad when I was a kid and built it straight up no paint. It was the Revell Skips Fiesta edition nomad. I loved that thing cause it was the first car I had gotten molded in the metallic blue. I built it as is and I always dug that thing! It eventually started missing pieces and got lost in the shuffle. But this is really making me want to look for a Skips Fiesta edition one and do a revisit build. Really digging this!!
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