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About Byron5150

  • Birthday 05/11/1992

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    new haven, In
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    Byron Nix

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  1. yes for the most part, i think the only reason mr. and tamiya are around is because the japenese market made there own. I use tamiya and mr mark stuff personally, but I'm sure there all good. Have a whole bottle of mr mark stuff so don't need to waste money to try micro sol but from watching vids and tutorials it works great. I have great success with mr mark set and softer so thats what i prefer using, once you find something that works good for you stick to it
  2. I just gave you a full length book on whats safe on lacquer bro lol There all safe, and obviously before clear coating you'd want to be sure that body is clean and nothing is on it that would effect the clear coat.
  3. Well I live in parents house, so can't really put a hole in the wall. YH70 that would work but it have to go over the screen. Im wandering if I can just put the dryer vent hose on the screen its self, although it may just blow back in, and wouldn't want paint on the window. Im wandering If I take a box fan face the fan part straight on a wall with a heavy filter in place, then on the back of the fan where it would draw the air and place a filter there, if that would do anything. The paint and the fumes would go straight into the wall its self aka dry wall and I could tightly seal it. I also wander if venting it into a tub of water would do anything. The acrylic smell could be tolerated with out a booth, It's the lacquer or urethane clear I would be spraying sometimes is what the problem is.
  4. Purple Power Degreaser straight by its self, strips tamiya lacquers and lacquers in general perfectly, and you can re use it afterwards. Brake fluid works well too however can ruin the plastic if left too long, Ive never left it over night tho in brake fluid. And have never tried it on resin. But Im sure the purple power would be safer on both plastic and resin.
  5. personally i think micro set is pointless you can just use water, the softer works tho they both do the same thing.. For instance my mr mark setter says this For decals, Mr.Mark Setter both softens and strengthens adhesiveness.Mr.Mark Setter is applied to position the decal over the area.Apply the decal.You can apply Mr.Mark Softer on the decal when necessary.That right there basically says the same thing as the mr mark softer except the softer says it helps on rough spots or curved applications. So my guess is they both soften the decal, and as with the tamiya, mark fit & mark fit stronger, there just tamiya's brand of setter and softer. However I bet it would ruin the decal (Mark Fit Strong) if used heavily, but I think it would have to be a lot. And that stuff is made specifically for tamiya's decals since they are a tad bit thicker then american kits but not by much, so you probably won't notice much of a difference.
  6. The common setting solutions micro sol and micro set will be fine, I use mr mark setter and mr mark softer and for tamiya's I use tamiya's mark fit strong. All in which can be used on lacquer and any dried paint. I've heard micro sol and set is mainly better for the american model kits and obviously the mr mark setter and softer and tamiya mark fit, are better for Japanese model kit decals. Whether thats true or not, Im not sure. Ive never used micro sol, and mr mark setter and softer work good for me on any model decals. Softening solutions you need to be careful with regardless, especially tamiya mark fit strong, because it does just that it softens the decal and eventually if you keep putting it on, it could soften the decal till a point it dissolves. All setting solution does is help the decal stick more it gives it more adhesiveness. All softer does is softens the decal and helps it to stay down and conform to the part either with corners or weird surfaces. Setting solution really isn't ever needed, you could just use water, setting solutions just helps the decal sit better IMO and IMO makes your decals look better, & they help aid in the silvering effect. Regardless with top coat its easier not to ruin the decals, you still would want to start with mist coats. You could also use clear lacquers, but you have more of a chance of ruining the decal. But still always do light coats first that way the lacquer builds up slow or the top coat builds up slow. Urethane clear coats are better then both in my opinion for getting a super glossy shine afterwards, but you still need to build it up slowly and it does not eat the decals. So the in quick terms, decals usually go on amazingly after a clear coat, and even after the car is polished, if your still having difficulty with the decal laying flat or conforming to the part, use a softening decal solution. If it goes on good with water good, then just use that. You can even use a hairdryer with a setting solution or water to slowly shrink and conform the decal to the part, Ex: carbon fiber decals on a car hood.
  7. Hi I have windows that are like this, they wind out and have a built in but removable screen. Now my basement windows are smaller, more like bathroom windows and wind upward and out, but still have a built in screen. My question is how to I go about running my vent hose from my airbrush booth to these? Ive read I may not really need a vent booth for tamiya acrylics, but however for lacquer and urethane clears I wouldn't need a booth but would like one for those. Id only be using lacquers and urethane clears for the body parts, rest of the car painting would be tamiya acrylics thinned down with lacquer thinner. Any Ideas or suggestions? Thanks,
  8. Best thing I found too use is one of those mini gatorade bottles perfect for putting some tape on the cap, and attaching a body. Also allows me to move the body in any form of way to paint it. I also use the tamiya paint stand, (just be sure when using that stand to only get the body mounts, set to hold the body at its lowest setting, to much pressure holding the body on the stand can bend your car body outward)
  9. hi guys, For those who are venting there hoses out the windows, anyone have a suggestion or solution. For venting out windows that wind in and out, with built in removable, but not sliding screens? These are what my windows are, like I said the screen is built in but is removable. Any ideas as Im getting my airbrush compressor and am finding out I may not really need a booth for tamiya acrylics but it would be nice to have one.
  10. Hey guys I now have a youtube video channel for my builds, and I will post pictures on here as well of new builds. My channel also does reviews, and as of now I have no tutorials on there but I will be. Please come check my channel out comment, like, and subscribe and let me know on things you'd wanna see and what i can improve and such. Thanks, Exotic Scaled Cars @youtube.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDotcD6rTPxcj6TPqERKE6A
  11. Hey guys I started making videos for my builds, I think they would be more interesting then looking at pictures and reading how something is done. Now theres actual visual so please check out, and as always there will be tons and tons of more builds!!! Im debating weather i should talk in the videos or just build. Lemme know what you guys think. Cheers, Nix Enjoy. Exotic Scaled Cars
  12. Jag looks great! Really digging the vibe from this build and that color along with the detail is fantastic
  13. looks good man, great looking body, and chassis!!
  14. Same here you made me buy one as well. I literally just finished ordering it lol
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