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Karl LaFong

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  • Scale I Build
    1/25th

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    Philadelphia Area
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    Keith Jones

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  1. Hmm, I was expecting flanges that looked like this: (from Home | Scale Auto Model Kit Reviews & Reference (proboards.com) ) rather than what was included in the kit: Thanks for the heads-up.
  2. Thanks to all for the kudos! I wish I had changed out the taillights - they look too clunky.
  3. The WIP progress pics can be found here: I finally finished it - the only added details are a photo reduced 1968 Pennsylvania license plate, a parts box license plate surround, and wire ferrule exhaust pipes.
  4. I picked this kit a couple days ago - definitely a mixed bag. The bad: Considering the parts count, this one is on the expensive side. Even on Ebay, it seems to hover around the >$36.00 mark. The kit I bought had both cleanly molded parts trees and heavy flash. There is only one engine block, it serves for both a small block (with sparkplugs in the wrong location) and big block (with heads that look like they came out of a Palmer kit). The chrome was uneven in places and there were some nasty sink marks: I have plenty of replacement parts, so for me, this isn't a major issue. The good: This is a treasure trove of 1963-1967 Corvette parts! For example - there are 3 of the 4 Kustom knock-offs from the '63 Vette, a slew of '64 Vette interior parts (rally gauges, clip board, etc.) The chrome grill is a bad fit for the 68 Corvette but looks great in the '63 body. For a 54 year old kit, it does go together well - the caveat being that it is a 54 year old kit, which is a big plus for me. The odd: If you want to build this as a supercharged dragster, you're out of luck - while there are blower parts, there's no manifold or drive belt, plus the interior looks more like a Trans Am racer. If you want to build it as a Trans Am racer, the engine flanges for the external exhaust pipes are missing, and the tires, which would be great for a street stock dirt track race car, are all wrong. But with some help from a parts stash, it should be possible to build either a '68 drag car or Trans Am car, but if you just use the parts in the box, it's a custom (truth in advertising!). I've been looking forward to this kit and I wasn't overly disappointed - I raided my parts box and will be building it as a late 60's modified sports drag car.
  5. Additionally, the windshield glass is/was too small. This appears to be a long running problem, as there was a circa 1985 article in Scale Auto Enthusiast comparing the Revell, MPC, Monogram, and AMT 1957 Chevies which also pointed out the small glass problem. Personally, I hope the glass issue has been fixed - it would be cool do an early 60's dragster or custom with this kit and the various re-popped Revell Custom Car Parts (also from Atlantis). It'll be just like 1963 again!
  6. Heading into the homestretch. I tinted the upper part of the windshield with Tamiya Clear Blue and added a photoreduced 1968 Pennsylvania inspection sticker. The glass, interior, and chassis have been glued in place, I just need to add some details to the engine bay, glue on the taillights, side mirrors, and grill/lights, and call it done. I probably should have dusted it before taking photographs.
  7. You are correct! Thanks for catching this, I fixed it. I painted it Testor's Rootbeer Metalflake (which looks darker in person) and attached the wheels. Because of their fragility, I'll be adding the knock-offs after the chassis has been glued.
  8. I was surprised by how well detailed the engine is (at least for a circa 1968 kit). I painted it Testor's Metallic Copper, to simulate the Oldsmobile Bronze color of 1968 engines. If I was doing replica stock , I would strip the chrome from the valve covers and air cleaner, but since this is a custom, I kept them bright. I used Krylon Short Cuts flat black for the chassis; it has the sheen of Tamiya Semi-Gloss black, but at almost 1/2 the cost.
  9. Tom, Thanks for posting this - it illustrates the stance problems with the kit-supplied wheels. You could just add some patina and you'd have a rat rod that's different. Another thing I considered was filling in the roof gills, simulating a vinyl top, molding in a continental kit, and adding some wide white walls and wire wheels for a FWD Super Fly-mobile.
  10. I completed the interior. I painted it Testor's Enamel Flat Black. In order to simulate leather, I masked off the floor and rear shelf, and painted it with Testor's Semi-Gloss Enamel. The steering wheel is from the parts box (looks like a Chevy). The turn indicator and shift are a straight pin with a blob of 2 part epoxy on each end, the blob was hit with a Molotow chrome pen; all the small chrome bits are Molotow. I used bezels from a Model Car Garage photoetch gauge set with the kit instrument decals. The seat belt buckles are also Model Car Garage items. I used the kit-supplied bench seat because it looked classier than the buckets. Photo-reduced copies of the April, 1968 Playboy and Cream's Disraeli Gears round out the swingin' interior.
  11. I agree! Probably cutting the side window opening back to the rear edge of the front "gill" would lighten it up. I'm going to keep it as is, it kind of presages the heavy "C" pillars of late 70's luxury barges like the Lincoln Mark V or Chrysler Brougham (can you say "opera window"?). As bad as the "C" pillar looks, the front grill/light is the stuff that nightmares are made of:
  12. I missed the Californian the first time around, so I was looking forward to the re-release - to say the least, the styling is quirky. Was Bradley going for a retro look, or GT sedan, or Car of the Future? Some of the odder elements, like the spoiler, hood scoops, and other doodads could be left off, but the roof gills (or whatever they are) needed more work. I glued in the "taillights" and sanded them down. I used autobody filler for smoothing out low spots. While sanding, I removed the drip rails, so they were replaced with Evergreen strip. There is an issue with the rear wheel wells - straight out of the kit, the interior tub and rear part of the body are visible through the rear wheel opening. I added Evergreen styrene around the chassis rear wheel well. It's not perfect, but it cuts down on the view. For most of the builds I've seen of this kit, the front end sits high. I drilled 1/16th holes above the kit front end, which brought the front end down a bit. The kit Toronado wheels look kind of bland, plus they extend almost beyond the body, so I'll be replacing them with the tires and wire wheels from the AMT '65 Riviera. In the pictures below, the wheels are only mocked up, eventually they'll be properly installed. That's it, for now!
  13. I had a bunch of AMT '40 Ford parts that weren't going anywhere, so why not take 'em out on the track? I removed the molded in windshield wipers, hogged out the wheel wells, removed the running boards, sanded down '39 Ford headlamp buckets as light covers, and cut away the sides of the hood (which may be the '39 hood). Inside, the rear seat was removed, the former location of the window and door cranks were drilled out, and custom seat from an AMT '37 chevy was installed. The stock engine was painted Tamiya British Racing Green; the AMT air cleaner was replaced with one from the Revell '40 Ford coupe. Rear tires appear to be truck tires, mounted on AMT '32 Ford steel wheels. The front tire/wheels are a mixed bag - the passenger side wheels are from the first edition of the AMT '36 Ford, with a Revell '50 Olds tire; the driver's side is a later AMT '36 wheel on a parts box AMT Firestone tire. The body was painted Tamya Pure Weight and Lavender, bumpers are Evergreen channel, and I used whatever decals I could find from my stash.
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