Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

DPNM

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,125

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DPNM

  • Birthday 07/04/1955

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
  • Full Name
    Jim Sulli van

Recent Profile Visitors

7,256 profile views

DPNM's Achievements

MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. DPNM
    Congratulations Bill. Not far from now you'll hit 1k.
  2. DPNM
    There are two levers on the U. The top (trigger) controls the air. The second controls the paint flow. The finger pad makes contact with the second lever to start paint flow. This means the trigger (air) is"full on" when the paint begins to flow. The further down the paint lever goes the more paint is sprayed. The wheel on the back lowers the paint lever. With practice you could have a preset amount of paint flow when you start and you could then modulate the trigger and use less air. This wheel works similar to the wheel on the front of older Paasche V or VLs or the screw on the post of a T&C or Badger. Those move their trigger backwards which will start paint flow. The pic shows the trigger just at the point of touching the paint lever.
  3. DPNM
    I've been there. I revisit it every so often. Lots of good info. And pics. It amazes me what they were able to do back then. Most people probably don't think so but they are complicated to make. It's one reason I like airbrushes. And why I've really started to try to find old ones.
  4. DPNM
    You are correct Bill. Charles L Burdick worked for T&C then too. It's said he thought that TC was using more of Wolds designs than his so he moved to England. He formed the Aerograph company there. In my opinion, OC Wold came up with some interesting designs, the U above being one.
  5. DPNM
    I'd be interested too. Whatcha gonna do with the ones you don't like? I had one show up yesterday. Wold model U.
  6. DPNM
    One thing before you test it. You said you replaced the needle with one of a different color. Did you replace the nozzle and air cap that match the needle you put in? If you didn't it will not spray right. The needles are color coded for various sizes and the nozzle and air cap have to match.
  7. DPNM
    I've waited for others to make suggestions but, so far, none have. If you'd like I'll try to help you sort it out so at least it may be usable. I will have a number of questions.
  8. DPNM
    The Dodge Charger and Challenger from the movie Death Proof (2007) to go along with the Nova I did finish. Both the cars are nearly done but they just sit in their boxes. No interest. Maybe someday right?
  9. DPNM
    DPNM changed their profile photo
  10. DPNM
    Thank you for the kind words Ismael, I'm glad you like them. For the most part they aren't much different than today's brushes. They've just been around for a longer period of time.
  11. DPNM
    I added a couple more early brushes to my collection. They are both Aerograph E type brushes purchased from two different sellers in the UK. I wanted the first one as I knew it was produced before the Super63, which coincidentally debuted around 1963 from what I've been able to learn, although I didn't know when for sure. With a bit of research I've found it should have been made around 1920-1930. The second one is older. From the bulb style air valve connection this brush should be from the early 1900s to 1920. Charles L. Burdick founded the Aerograph Company (originally named the Fountain Brush Company) and moved to England. This brush has Chas L Burdick and the word Patent on the handle. There is no patent date. Both cases look to be original and in pretty good shape considering their age.
  12. DPNM
    I was quite nervous myself Bill. I didn't want to damage anything. My friend (he's also my mentor) gave me an idea how it disassembles. Fortunately it came apart easily. Since no paint enters the body I should not have to disassemble it again. I find this brush extremely fascinating myself Joe. To think it was designed and manufactured way back then boggles my mind. To work as well as I was told is incredible to me. I thought it would spray more like a Paasche F or H. You may as well start using your Crescendo. Practice is helpful. I have never owned one so I can't offer any advice. I believe they are similar to the Paasche VL which are very good airbrushes.
  13. DPNM
    You are welcome Joe. I know most members here don't give two hoots about it but there are a few here who appreciate these vintage brushes as I do. Although I have nothing against more modern brushes, I have a few, my main focus now is finding early ones. I love the history and the design concept of them. The N was designed to not have paint in the body of the brush. The paint is only in the head. The brush is double action. A friend of mine has a number of the N models. He says it sprays as well as his Iwata HP-B. He is an artist not a modeler so his comparison means a lot to me. That said, this N may become my favorite and most used airbrush. This is how the siphon jar is opened. There are two ears that hold the jar when given a half turn. The disassembled brush is a Wold model A-1 I am working on. Not as old as the N.
  14. DPNM
    Got this to add to my still growing AB collection. Wold model N. Made between 1912 and 1918. Has a side cup and a bottom feed jar. Think I'll put black in one and white in the other and paint a checkerboard. I took it apart, cleaned and polished it.
  15. DPNM
    Since you are sending it back, please update us on what the issue was, provided they tell you.
  16. DPNM
    Out of curiosity, have you checked to see if it is perhaps the handle that is off center?
×
×
  • Create New...