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About DPNM

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster
  • Birthday 07/04/1955

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
  • Full Name
    Jim Sulli van

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4,494 profile views
  1. Welcome back Derick. I use nail polish for finishes. Nail-polish has some really nice pearls. Thin with lacquer thinner right around 1 to 1. One bottle nail-polish to one bottle lacquer thinner should be close. As John said, you will need to primer your model first. I use Dupli-Color primers I buy from a local auto parts store. Then again, I'm in the US. I airbrush my nail-polish also.
  2. Autoquiz 418

    There are 12 correct answers and 11 names above. I got it so yes, and sorry matthijsgrit , it must have been too easy. The rear window area reminds me of the DS and I never had to look beyond Citroen.
  3. AMT 93 Firebird

    My guess, correct category, wrong title.
  4. WW 1 helicopter

    I can see why you chose the .357 Ray. If you would have put in a .22 instead the model would look bigger. I'd guess if you put a quarter on the base it would cover half of the P and most (if not all) of the hyphen. Yes, it is a small model. Not having one here to check anymore I searched it. A .357 cartridge is approximately one and a half inches long. The case is 1.29" or just a tad over 1-1/4".
  5. WW 1 helicopter

    You can always post another pic with a quarter in it. I guess if you wanted/needed to "bail" you better be able to jump out a good distance to clear the props. They would pretty much be double sided scissors. Ouch. You'd probably be better off laying on the basket floor (in the fetal position) and hope for the best.
  6. What's wrong with this picture?

    Maybe I'm not seeing the same pic that some others seem to see. The plane looks to be landing. Why else the balloons but as a Welcome Home? The family is waving hello? Might be a French thing. The wave might be to show the Dad where they are parked. The young person in white on the roof, it looks like a dress to me but the hair-style of the person looks male. Politically correct back then or maybe another French thing? The lady at the bottom of the stairs looks to be covering her eyes from the inevitable.
  7. WW 1 helicopter

    Very fine job on an unusual subject Ray. I had to look the thing up. Pretty interesting reading. I learned something. Thank you. I hear you about the small kits being harder to work on. I've got old eyes.
  8. Airbrush 101 the Basics

    Here is one with a slight twist. It is a Snap-on (Badger) 360. It is both siphon feed and gravity feed. You rotate the head piece (twist it see what I did there?) for either siphon or gravity feed. It is described by Badger as being an all in one in that it will spray a fine line and also do a wide pattern. The one I purchased used needs a new tip. I plan to order some Badger parts with new tips as part of my order. 'Til then I have not been able to really test it yet. I read "Don's Airbrush Tips" on this model. He and another 360 owner both made larger "bowls" for the gravity feed. It is rather small. I am looking for a piece of stainless in the correct size but I've also thought that the glass from an e-cigarette may work. I will be experimenting. Don's review: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/badger-360 Thank you for sharing your trigger style 935k3.
  9. Model Kits and Airbrushes to Trade

    The Paasche VL is no longer available. As an aside, this is a time I miss being able to continue to edit my posts.
  10. Autoquiz 418

    I sent my guess.
  11. Airbrush 101 the Basics

    A few examples of a double action, side feed airbrush. In front is a vintage Thayer and Chandler model A, On the left is a vintage Paasche V, on the extreme right is a Badger 100XF and the center rear is a Badger 100XFL, left handed model. To my knowledge the T&C only uses a fine needle/nozzle combination. The Paasche V can be changed to either fine or medium needle/nozzles and the Badger 100 XF will accept all three combinations, fine, medium and heavy needle/nozzles.
  12. Airbrush 101 the Basics

    A few examples of a Double Action Siphon Feed Airbrush. Front to Back: Paasche VL, Sears (Badger) 150 and a Vega 2000. One thing to notice here is the shape of the shell (body). The Paasche is what I would call "pudgy". The Badger and Vega are more streamlined (smaller in diameter) with the Vega being a bit longer in length than the Badger.
  13. Airbrush 101 the Basics

    A couple examples of a Single Action Airbrush. Paasche H is in front. Badger 200 is on left and Binks Wren "A" on right. There are quite a few airbrushes available that use the same Tip/Needle design as the Paasche and Binks. To adjust the spray pattern you turn the tip in or out depending on what you need. The Badger is a bit unique as it has a needle like a double action. To adjust this spray pattern you turn the inner knob on the rear clockwise or counter-clock wise. This moves the needle in and out.
  14. Model Kits and Airbrushes to Trade

    I thought I posted a pic of the kits I'm looking for. I would really like to find the book.
  15. Airbrush 101 The Basics: There are generally two types of airbrushes. Single action and double action. Single action is like a spray can, you push the trigger down and get air and fluid combined. With a double action you push the trigger down and get air. To get fluid you move the trigger toward the back (rear) of the airbrush. Double Action airbrushes come in three types. Bottom feed, side feed and gravity feed. Bottom feed siphons fluid up into the airbrush, side feed pulls from the center and gravity works on, well...gravity. These should be easy enough to understand. I believe that most, if not all, single action are bottom (siphon) feed. I would recommend buying the best airbrush you can afford first. It will save you time and money. You will need to determine which type is best for you, single or double action. If double action then Bottom Feed, Side Feed or Gravity Feed. Single action is easier to learn and use but you can do more things with double action. How do you know which brand to buy? If at all possible find a store or shop that may have ones that are demonstrators. Holding and “FAUX” airbrushing will give you an idea of how they feel to you. If you know someone who has one, sample theirs. If none of the above, read reviews. I would suggest buying one of the name brands, Paasche, Badger, Iwata, Binks etc. Replacement parts are usually plentiful. New ones should have a warranty. Sure the Knock-offs are less expensive. It may be because they are cheap. It is better to spend a bit more to get more. New or used? I would say new if you know nothing about them. I would suggest buying a used one you can see in person. Craigslist for example. If you want to go eBay be careful. Try to find a seller who knows what they are selling. Many sellers there now find airbrushes at garage/yard/estate sales and have no idea how they work, or, if what they have does work (look for the word untested). If the listing description says “see pics to determine condition” avoid it. Chances are the seller knows less about airbrushes than you do. Used can get you a better airbrush for less, you need to know what you are looking at. There are also (pistol) trigger style airbrushes. I do not have one, yet, so I can not comment on how much of a difference they are to use. It would be one that I would have to hold before I’d make a purchase. I have three words of advice for when you do get your airbrush. Practice, practice, practice.