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      General Usage   05/10/2017

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About DPNM

  • Rank
    MCM Friend
  • Birthday 07/04/1955

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
  • Full Name
    Jim Sulli van

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Flyer for those near the Pittsburgh area who would like to buy, sell or enter the contest:
  2. Monthly meetings for the South Hills Modelers Association in Pittsburgh Pa. Come attend a meeting on the SECOND Monday of the month at the Waterfront-Homestead Eat 'N Park (245 E. Waterfront Dr., Homestead, PA 15120). We start the meetings at 8pm, but you can stop by earlier, and meet the crew. Hope to see you there!
  3. What's your state famous for?

    Pennsylvania=High Taxes and Potholes. Woot!!!
  4. Great Traders List

    Had another great trade with Sam I Am. Top notch guy to deal with and the item was better than he mentioned!!! Had a great trade with Hi-Po! Would recommend trades with him and I'd trade with him again anytime.
  5. Harley Davidson Wanted

    PM sent
  6. Beemax Volvo 240T Gr. A

    I'd buy one. A 245 (wagon) would be awesome but it's cool that at least a 242 might be forthcoming.
  7. Excellent craftsmanship sir. It had to be a labor of love. Your labor paid off. The car is outstanding.
  8. 1961 Corvette restoration

    It's not as bad as it looks John. The glue did mar parts of the underside but the outside of the body is relatively unscathed. It's paint in the irregular places on the inside. I have a '60 Revell kit Steve. The bezels in that kit are a lot larger than the '61 mounting point. I believe that is one of the gripes about the '61 (and the '62). The headlights are too small to scale.
  9. I recently won an old built up '61 Vette off eBay. It was a model I've been looking for for a long time. It's my favorite year Vette and they are hard to find. It is mostly complete. I picked up a "Sock It To Me" Vette in a trade with a member here as the '62 kit is very similar. I plan to use some parts from it for this restoration. The '61 had 3 different colors on it. I stripped it in Purple Power. Fortunately the original painter didn't do prep work. The body was not sanded. I have begun the resto by sanding the mold lines that were not touched and I'm prepping the body for paint. There are a couple trouble spots. It had massive amounts of glue in different areas, applied after it was painted, and I'm trying to get those areas ready. The windshield frame is broken, but it should be repairable. Pics of where it is so far: As Purchased Stripped I do have an ad up looking for a headlight bezel and two clear lenses as those are the only things that are missing that I can't get from the SITM kit. As an aside, I am also working on a 1 to 1 scale project so this build may take some time for updates. Besides the 1 to 1 I also started a 1/18 Warlock project but that is in die-cast. I'm used to working with plastic so that project is a learning curve. This Vette has given me the desire to build which I haven't had for quite a while.
  10. Thank you DumpyDan. I tried to offer what I thought would be useful. I had the day off so I had the time. Don't know if I'd do it again though. When someone mentions airbrushes I perk up. It kind of turned into Airbrush 101. It doesn't seem like the OP has been back since. I did want her to know that modelling should be his second love. A wife willing to help a guy with his hobby is special.
  11. Even more about airbrushes: The double actions usually have three needle choices. Paasche offers 1,3 and 5 I believe. Go with the 5 as it is the largest and will spray higher viscosity fluids. I am most familiar with the Paasche, the other brands should be similarly numbered. Some airbrush kits have the different sizes included. Also, if he should make a mistake and have to strip the paint I use Purple Power. It doesn't work on flat black (at least for me) but it is fairly (somewhat, sorta kinda) safe. I do wear latex gloves and eye protection. One thing on latex gloves, some may leave a residue on the model. It's best to wash any contaminates off with the gloves on then wash again with your (his) bare hands. You (he) have to wash your hands first as the oil from your skin may contaminate to item to be painted. Actually the painting part is the easiest. It's prepping the item that is more difficult. Your original post says he's mentioned airbrushes. Has he been specific? I would shop online to find the best price on an airbrush and compressor although you may be running out of time.
  12. More about airbrushes: there are 3 different styles. Siphon feed, gravity feed and side feed. Siphon feed has the paint bottle under the airbrush, gravity feed has the paint in the top and side feed has the jar on the side (go figure). I would suggest either a siphon feed or gravity feed. Most side feeds I am aware of are more for inks not higher viscosity material like auto paint. I own quite a few airbrushes. I collect them. I have one gravity feed but I've never used it so I have no experience to tell you on them. He may have to learn to look "around" the gravity feed jar so I've heard. Guide: Single action/siphon feed: Paasche H1 Badger 200 series Binks Wren Double action/siphon feed: Paasche VL series Badger 150 Iwata BCS Double action/gravity feed: Paasche TG series Badger 100 series Iwata HP-CS All these company's offer lower and higher quality airbrushes. What I listed should be considered about the middle of the road. Also, when you look for a compressor try to find one that is somewhat quiet. You will be glad you did.
  13. Couple other things, he can use SuperGlue also. It's available in tube and brush-on. It will work gluing painted pieces. He has to be careful putting them together though as it dries fast. To use the model cement I mentioned he has to scrape the paint/plating from the pieces to get the pieces to bond. Not as strong a hold but I would suggest Elmers white glue (or similar) for gluing clear pieces (windshields/glass). It dries clear and will not mar the piece. Excess can be cleaned up with water, on a Q-Tip etc while it is still wet.
  14. You should be able to find an airbrush/compressor in that price range depending on what it is. I would suggest buying a name brand. Badger (as mentioned), Paasche, Iwata are a few that come to mind. I use a Binks Wren (single action). Name brands being better when he needs to buy spare/replacement parts. Determine which to buy, single or double action. Single action should be less expensive. Amazon is Ok if you don't have a local hobby store or other place I mentioned. I do not know which kit interests him. As an aside, I assumed him to be auto related. If he wants to do planes or military (and ships too probably) he will need to buy flat (not gloss) paint. You may also find airbrushes (used and new) on your local craigslist. My suggestion of small drill bits, he would need a good pin-vice also.
  15. Welcome to the forum. It's cool you want to do this. For basics he will need an X-Acto knife (or similar) with at least a #11 blade (a kit would be better but I do not know your budget), Testors sells two different containers of liquid cement, one is a brush on bottle the other is in a black container and has a long neck/applicator, do not use tube glue, sandpaper-I'd recommend wet or dry for painting, at least 600 to 1200 grit (should be able to find a variety pack at any auto parts store), masking tape, a variety of small clamps (clothes-pins work), small paint brushes, maybe a small set of files, depending on his age and eye sight, a magnifier ( I use a head piece but I'm old), a good light to see with, small drill bits, decal solvents, at least a 6" ruler (I use a small square as it can be used as a straight edge). As far as an airbrush goes, there are two types. Single action and double action. Single action is like a can of spray paint, you push down on the trigger and get paint and air. Double action is when you push straight down on the lever and get only air. When you pull the trigger back it sprays the material. The further back, the more material. Double action is a bit harder to use until you get used to it. I would recommend auto paint and primer. I prefer Dupli-Color. It comes in a LOT of colors (any auto parts store also). Whatever you choose try to make sure the primer, base coat and clear coat are from the same MFG or he may run into compatibility issues. I've had good success spraying from the can. A small compressor that (in my opinion) has at least 35 psi should be good (with a regulator). Look for one with auto- shutoff. He will need a good place to paint. The fumes from lacquer or enamel can be strong. Water based paint not so much. A small paint booth directed outside would help. Most of the non auto parts store related items should be available at any hobby store or places like Hobby Lobby, Michael's. Walmart, etc. I'm sure there are things I've over looked and others here will help.